I think that Errol possibly has the better of the 3D printed units, as they can be permantely bonded to the airbox (which could be a challenge with aluminium castings) - also I used a silicon adheshive to permantly bond the 2 halves together & alleviate that 4th unsupported edge I removed the 2 upper sub-frame bolts then slackened off the 2 lower under the sub-frame could be eased back (fuel line removed) To pull back together, I use a length of rope, tied to each handle bar & around the luggage rack, then a short length of timber slowly twisting (called a Scottish windlass), gives good control, a single handed task
If I can get the aluminum part cast properly I will bolt it on and probably use a thin piece of foam sheet as a seal. Can't imagine forming a better seal than that. Question: if you permanently bond the upper and lower half of the airbox together, how do you get it back out should you need to get to say, the throttle body? Or the valves?
It will come apart just fine. When I removed mine for the pod mod I pulled the airbox in one piece. Be very careful when you release the top subframe bolts, because if you have your fuel line connected at the throttle body, there is a chance, 90% chance you will break the injector fuel rail. It is just the plastic nipple and assembly that holds the injector. Very fragile. A few of us have broken them already. ADVISE: Do the pod mod. You may be like me and not wish to hack up your bike for mods that make your bike not stock, or reasonably stock. I wrestled with it for awhile. I bought elements and played around with relocation similar to the printed holder, before that even came about. Once I had the airbox out and apart to do fitment, I noticed that the airbox was of such poor design that it would be near impossible to fully seal and keep sealed over time. Njoytheride did the hack first, and I saw that as the only real fix. Well, he pulled it all apart to do the job, and I got to looking and thought it could be done without removal of the airbox, and so I did it on a friends Terra. Took video and that is on youtube View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a_5mKsVW_-Y Since then, others have refined the job to be spot on and not even look like a hack job. I have one suggestion, and the top fueling experts have brought up concerns about the pod mod. Some think it leans the bike, some think it chokes the bike. I say if you use the abs drain elbow for the pod mod (a bit more work), you will get a performance gain. The silicon 90 is soft, the abs is rigid. The silicon 90 is a harsh 90, the drain elbow 90 has a better transition. That is just my personal preference on the matter, based on my opinion of pulse harmonics needed to fuel and evacuate the combustion chamber. I even drilled more holes in my airbox to get air in easier than the restricted front snorkle. Sure my bike "honks" when I twist the throttle, but my dyno runs are fairly good. Here is how I did mine http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/how-to-change-the-tr650-air-filter.40519/ But like mentioned, if you see some place to improve, do it, that helps the next guy. I'm totally happy with my mod, sad that I had to cut up my baby, but the surgery was required for optimal health.
Already did the Pod Mod. It does protect the engine quite well but I'm not a fan of the ad-hoc nature of the mod. It isn't a design, it's a patch at best. I drilled some holes too, around the air temperature sensor. I wanted a free stream of air over the sensor and the UNI filter pretty much completely blocked it. Did it make a difference? I don't know, but I felt better about it!
I've always remove the complete airbox in one operation, l see no need to split the box into top & bottom
One that works (and has done so on millions of engines of the last century, so it must be a GOOD DESIGN!!) and one that I don't have to look at. So it's all good.
Carefully & firmly lift To replace, thin smear of silicon grease on throttle body - also makes "lift-off" easier next time, every time for valve clearance checks
Pulse harmonic theory is developed for an infinitely large reservoir and a constant density fluid. The air box is definitely not infinite, does not have a regular internal shape, and the presence of the UNI filter is going to play havoc with any harmonics that do get set up. While there will be something going on with the harmonics in the air box it would seem to me that the other factors I just mentioned will play a FAR larger role than the angle of the curve, or the stiffness of the wall material in the manifold
With my Pod-mod l used a long length of 50mm pipe from the silicon elbow to halfway along the Pod filter, the intention being to stabilise airflow, providing more torque Works really well on the 2 stroke MX race bikes Possibly if l'd continued the Pod-mod l'd have noted an increse Unfortunately, l was distracted by some of the "spoofers" & " suggestions" on the ecu issues I like the Pod-mod concept, at sometime in the future will engineer a realy neat, version - l have the benefit of the Safari tanks which make access easier
not done the pod mod yet and going to have to rebuild the top end at 8,500 miles. It will go back together with the mod.
It may seem that way, but it isn't. If you were speaking of forced air induction, that may apply, but we are speaking naturally aspirated.
Hi there a question for you I just did the pod mod and rode some 3300 miles trip 1000 miles of it dusty off road it was very hot and humid on the east cost and I have noticed that in the temp above 90's the bike has difficulty Im thinking I need to relocate the AIT sensor from behind the uni filter can you tell me what AF-XIED route is....are the wires long enough to move it to where the air filter used to be on colder days when bike is running below 90" its perfect then it gets hot and I think the ecu makes it lean ...to lean.. Im also considering getting PCV with auto tune please advice thanks
Hi there a question for you I just did the pod mod and rode some 3300 miles trip 1000 miles of it dusty off road it was very hot and humid on the east cost and I have noticed that in the temp above 90's the bike has difficulty Im thinking I need to relocate the AIT sensor from behind the uni filter can you tell me what AF-XIED route is....are the wires long enough to move it to where the air filter used to be on colder days when bike is running below 90" its perfect then it gets hot and I think the ecu makes it lean ...to lean.. Im also considering getting PCV with auto tune please advice thanks
AF-XIED is another form of spoofer fooling the ECU into assuming it is colder than it is so it enrichens the mixture. Should be redundant after the recall update. https://sales.nightrider.com/TR-650_c_133.html http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/af-xied-beta-for-husqvarna-tr650.43650/
