TE511 or TE449 Dead Throttle Question?

Oh okay. Yes, that little brown ground wire needs to be attached to your sub-frame location away from harms way. It's not even a high voltage ground and should never of been added to the head. I wish the coil ground wasn't epoxy potted so we could add braid instead.

TE511 in LA-B2LV! Close to 500 miles over two days, 100's of miles of sand, Rocks, Hill climbs, miles and miles of whoops with little rest for the bike or rider. Only experienced two throttle error's out of who knows how many hundreds of thousands of throttle twist! My opinion, additional grounding, cap move, coil ground relocation help reduce this problem. Bike ran like a champ! No mechanical issues

I believe the reason why the xlite starter motors burn out is because they are unable to handle the higher current draw. Current draw from the starter varies with battery condition and as the voltage drops from the battery the current is inversely increased. Lithium ion battery packs which typically run at higher operating voltages may help solve this problem with the addition of a start capacitor.

http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=151308

Way to go Husky! I am seeing a more and more Husky's on the trail!
Great job on the LA-B to LV. I got to work Friday, Saturday & Sunday!

Desertyucca I think you are on to something. I am one of those Te owners that has electronic and mechanical experience that you are looking for.

I am amazed that the throttle body is nor grounded. Anyone that has used a shop vac or air compressor knows that air movement can cause static electricity to build up. With the throttle body on the TE449 the arc path to ground is through the TPS into the ECU. This could not be good.

I added a ground to the throttle body.

I also grounded the ignition coil directly to the frame. I think this will help prevent ignition noise from entering the ECU as well as hopefully preventing a failure of the ground wire.



I had already moved the battery ground to the nearby sub frame bolt and increased the size of the battery leads to #8 wire. This was in an effort to prevent the starter from stalling and resetting the trip meter. It helped a little.



These changes have improved the personality of my bike. It runs smoother and the few flame outs that I have had since can be attributed to pilot error. I think these are must do upgrades.



My bike is a 2012 TE449 that is mostly stock. It is not powered up. I have removed the vacuum leak they call the evap canister. I have just over 1000 miles on it. It gets 50 mpg. I have changed to a 14 tooth counter shaft sprocket. It will now idle at 5 mph and the top speed is 78 mph. I think the top speed is electronically limited because it gets there quickly and easily and stays right at 77,78 tucked in or not.

Hi Radar! You work on Radar? I work in RF areas

I was also amazed the ground wires from the battery to the engine as well as the main wire harness grounds were so undersized. Resistance increases when copper is heated. Indication why the starter is dragging when hot.

The entire grounding idea was a long shot and so far the bike as you indicated has a new personality once all the grounds were added.

Thanks for your feedback!

Desertyucca, Yes I am a retired marine radar and HF radio tech and old busted up desert racer.



Motosportz, I am unburdened by any knowledge of the facts so I can speculate at will. I think the 2012 TE449 in reduced power mode may have a speed or rev limiter feature. In race map of coarse it would not. The only lean running symptom my bike has is it won't go to warp factor 12 like yours will. But I don't want that. What I have now is the ultimate trail bike running in impulse power.

Radar can you please post some pictures of your grounding modifications? I am tentative to make electrical mods so the more photos the better. It would be greatly appreciated.

Here's the ignition ground:
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/449-511-ignition-ground.28115/

I will do that next time I have it apart.

Thanks Tinken and Radar.

I hit this problem often with some of my links.

The images are link locked. You can download the images and then reupload them.

I tried a few concept's, I wanted a Buss type ground to attach all my grounds to.

With all the great minds and experience we have on this forum someone will find the magic install that works and looks nice I am worried the solder will work loose some day, back to the drawing board. I would like to see other installs


1st design, test phase. Few desert runs and one GP. Worked great.
https://plus.google.com/photos/105926185939846057121/albums/5816752609275266801

Used this on the LA-B2LV run.
Photo Link using two braided ground straps from Napa. Some 400 deg solder. Shrink tubing.
https://plus.google.com/photos/105926185939846057121/albums/5816753331101514769

This photo shows my ignition ground modification. I spliced the existing ground wire into a braded wire. I kept the ground wire as short as practical and solid mounted the splice to the plug. Hopefully this will reduce vibration induced metal fatigue.



The braded ground wire connects to the frame under a hose clamp and continues on to the engine ground lug.







In this photo you can see the larger battery leads with the negative lead connecting to the new ground point at the sub frame bolt. Also you can see the green ground wire on the throttle body

http://www.flickr.com/photos/90642835@N07/8232971901/in/photostream

http://www.flickr.com/photos/90642835@N07/8232970353/in/photostream/

Here are high rez copies of those photos

Awesome, thanks Radar and Desertyucca.