The spark plug cap usually screws into the cable. Here's an illustration of what a typical cap looks like. It has a little screw in the center of the cable end. You can see if there is any cable left in the cap and try to remove it, cut the cable end flush, then thread in back into the cap. It may work, or you may have f'd it up.
Yes you turn (screw) the cap onto (into) the HT cable - this is what I was suggesting you should also check … that there is a good connection between the two.
I dont know if its normal or not, but I had the same problem. The secondary winding measures as open circuit. I ordered the spare coil, it should be here at monday, so I will be smarter by then.
yes i also ordered a new coil and a new spark plug cap. It will take one week to arrive. Let's see if this finally fixes the problem...
There is a spike inside the cap that threads onto the ignition coil wire. Basically u should have 1/4" of wire exposed then thread that wire onto the spike inside the spark plug boot. If that does not work your looking at a new ignition coil.
My nightmare is still on. So received the new coil and the spark plug cap. First thing i did was checking the resistance of the coil. Could get the primary winding resistance ok to 4.9 Ohm, but to my surprise the secondary winding did not get any reading at all (like the old coil). In any case i put the coil in place, peeled and screwed the cable into the spark plug cap. Tried to start the bike with no luck. Checked for the spark, no spark at all. So i think i received a defective coil from Husqvarna.... i'll talk to them tomorrow.
you have to read the secondary coil on a different scale on the meter, usually around 20k. With it still not sparking it's time to look at the pick up coil that is triggered by the flywheel and the CDI box which usually cant be tested.
Thats odd. I still havent received my new coil yet. (Im having a very similar issue) I will check it and post it as soon as I can.
The service manual is wrong. It doesnt show the correct way to measure it. Here is a picturce of the correct method. You have to measure between the spark plug outlet and one of the primary terminals (both works). Mine measures 19.5 Kohm so its fine. But whats the problem then? Edit: My only guess is the Crank Position Sensor. But the only problem is that at normal temp. it reads the correct 100 Ohms. I will heat it up tomorrow and measure it at higher temp.
Thanks guys. So assuming the coil is fine (i´ll check both coils i have using the method above and let you know the results), i have checked the Crank Position Sensor (CPS). I opened the crank cover, CPS cables were very much sealed, so follow the red and green wires coming out from the CPS up to a connector under the tank. Unplugged the connector (was very dirty and a bit wet inside) cleaned it, and tested for resistance. I got no reading at all. So maybe the CPS is faulty... I still have to put all-together again and give it another try. I have detected a couple of wires (going to the fuel pump) that were peeling out but copper connection seemed ok so i sealed them again. I wonder if it is worth checking the startup-solenoid relay. Correct me if i'm wrong, but I think if this did not work bike would not even be moving the electric starter/cranking when pressing the start button...
With the leads of your meter connected to the wires at the plug connector of the crank sensor the crank sensor should have continuity and generate positive and negative pulse read on the ohm scale when cranking the engine. It is what triggers the cdi to open and close the primary circuit of the ignition coil.
ok, i take any critics. I'm far from being an expert. Other than changing oil, transmission and some issues with the clutch i've had no other problems with the husky. As mentioned before i have little time and the bike is some miles away from where i live. I thought the issue was (1) with valves, then (2) when found no spark everything pointed to the coil and this has used up some time. I wish i had fixed the issue. This weekend i will further dig into the cps possibility.
so yesterday i managed to confirm there is no pulse whatsoever coming out of the CPS. I retested there is no resistance neither when stopped or when trying to start the engine. I have one of these CPS thingies ordered. I also checked that the old coil is in good shape. Pity the waste of money and time.
It's not a waste of time if you're learning as you go. Next time you will get to the problem quicker because you understand how all the parts work together.
yes i agree. It's always good fun and time well spent doing repairs and maintenance on my bikes. I try servicing them 100% and learning along the way. Things seem difficult the first time you do them, but after they become a piece of cake. Having internet with access to service manuals, and most importantly, access to knowledgeable people like you in this forum, make things a lot easier. A few years ago most people would not even try some of these things on their own at all. Yesterday I receive the new CPS from an ebay shop in the UK. I'll test it this weekend. Will let you know how it goes. Fingers crossed.
So the new CPS fixed the problem. Now bike starts first go !!! THANKS SO MUCH FOR ALL YOUR HELP. I have a little problem. Even though the bike starts w/o a problem, the neutral blinks 4 times in continuous sequences. I think it is the fuel connection that goes from the tank into the bike. Tried to disconnect and reconnect a few times withd no luck. When i disconnect it squirts fuel with quite some pressure, so i think the link is not properly made. Pushing the white buttons and at the same time pushing the pipe is a little difficult. Any hints on how to make the connection work better? Anyone has a list of neutral blinking codes?
Is the connection actually leaking? Chances are if it is not properly connected it will leak - if connected it will not. You can lubricate the connectors with a little silicone spray. Sometimes to hold the one side carefully with long nose pliers helps connecting.
i also removed the LeoVince put the original doble exhaust, undid the Power Up kit (reconnecting to sonda lambda), since i need to pass the 'road test' to keep it legal for European roads. Maybe this is now causing the blinking error. Or a bad connector. I will connect the ibeat.
