So the flood light is (loosely) considered to be the "low beam" and the spot would be the "high beam"? I'd imagine that, depending on the switch, one could wire the lights to operate independently or together... assuming you have the charging system to back it up. Total draw is 70 watts? So then each light is 35 watts more or less... about the same as the typical Euro DS bike ba20d 35/35 headlight bulb. Perfect! Sorry about the questions and conjecture on my part Kelly... Trailtech provides nothing of value on their website. I've found more useful information in your thread than any other moto-forum thread or Trailtech's website combined. I know you want to sell this item and it's in your best interest to provide photos and info... never the less, I appreciate that you've taken the time to do so. C
This looks awesome. I have a couple of pretty basic questions, though. Why isn't it DOT certified? Will it be very easy for a LEO to tell that it's not DOT? Call me a noob, but what's the differences (advantage/disadvantage) between halogen and HID? I'm definitely going to be picking one up, I just wanted to know those couple of things.
no problem man and if you have known me on line for as long as a lot of people have you'll know I like supporting information, not just to make a buck. People posting info is good for all of us. Your right on most accounts, 35 watts each. On my 610 I run the 2" as low beam as it has plenty of fill and enough light to rip down a road at 60 plus. The 4" is to wide to run with oncoming cars, you will blind people. At the race this weekend I'll be testing the HID X2. Halogen X2 and 8" HID race light and will report back.
The 2 inch as the primary light? That makes sense to me... I had a single Trailtech MR-11 (2") spot pattern light mounted in the fairing of my 640 Adventure a few years ago as a suplimental light. For such a small assembly, it threw a serious, will focused bright white light a loooong way down the trail. A good friend of mine with an enduro specialist shop back east is sending me a X2 HID to try out on the Sherco... so I'll get the chance to see (get it... "see" ) for myself. Cheers, C
Ha,ha Mr. Creeper I do see! I just wired mine up Tuesday night. TT's instructions show the 2" as the low and the 4" as the hi. You will love the light. As you stated in a response over at KTMT aimage is the key. By the way, Thanks for posting the x2 back then! After I read Motosportz ++ wright up I was convinced it would work on the road. My boss threw down the company card and ordered it for me. Sorry Morosportz!When my boss kicks out $260+ I don't say but wait, I was gonna...You've got some great looking Husky stuff. John0tt0, LEO can look at the houseing and see it does not say DOT. Putting an H4 HID behind a DOT houseing might get you by, but if he wants to be a pain that day your gonna get a ticket for something. I can tell mine lights up a little higher athan a car or my stock unit but it is aimed pretty good and I don't think it's going to be a problem. Putting it on the dark road beside my truck the X2 is more intense but the truck is harder to look at FWIT. Still if the man is out to hassle someone that day it doesn't matter what you've got, he's just out to be a pain that day. Most are not like that though.
Creeper, You're in the Northwest and someone from the East has to send you the light from a Northwest company? I guess UPS has to make a living! Are we East Coast guys allowed to know who this is? Norman
I have the light on the bike now... it was delivered (drop shipped direct... so it didn't actually come from the East ) from Trailtech Friday. A black body... and they threw in a white number plate sticker. I would have preferred a yellow sticker, but I guess black and white are the only choices in a plain, no logo sticker for the time being. Although mounting on a Husky wouldn't be the same, all I had to do was fabricate a mounting "relocation plate", from some scrap carbon fiber, to move my instrument module up about 1.2"... so that it cleared the back of the light housing. The quality and thoughtfulness built into the light is excellent... absolutely top shelf stuff. I was able to mount mine with the "down pins" provided... it actually fits better than the OE Sherco light! Light output is brilliant both literally and figuratively. The aim seems perfect for trail riding... I'll be testing the light on the trail this coming Monday. When you consider that you can get the same exact package in Halogen for $80 (IMO, the Trailtech quality far exceeds any other aftermarket number plate/light I've seen, including Acerbis)... I still think the Halogen is a genuine bargain. C
Hello and I am sorry my second post is a post asking for help. I'm even more sorry after reading about Motosportz work with Trail Tech to make the x2 HID kit work with Husky's that I didn't purchase mine directly from Motosportz. Nothing against Trail Tech but I am looking to pick your brain about the install on a Husky 610 and I'm thinking you may be the one with the answers Motosportz. When I installed my X2 HID I was amazed with the light output but I noticed it took 20 to 30 seconds when you tried to switch from high beam to low beam for the light to come to life. Leaving you without really having usable light in the mean time. For those who haven't played with the light themselves essentially your low beam goes out and your high beam begins to warm up and vice versa going from high beam to low beam but it leaves you with essentially no light for a short period of time. So I'm assuming the best way ,if the X2 can handle running both lights, would be to have the low (2 inch) light stay on with the High (4 inch) when you switch to high beam this allowing you to never be without light. My big question I am asking is how would I go about wiring this up on a 2006 Sm 610? Would I have to use a diode or is there a way to wire it up so this works? I notice the result I am looking for is available if you just pull in the "flash to pass" trigger on the front of the left control where your high beam/low beam switch is. You retain low beam and it starts to illuminate the high beam as well and when you let the trigger go you aren't without light as if you just switched to low beam. I'm very sorry to ask you this question as I didn't buy the headlight from you and I really haven't done anything but drool all over the things on your own site. To be honest I only noticed that you were advertising them on your site after I ordered from Trail tech. Thank you very much for any help or insight you might have.
Yes, the HID takes a while to light. The halogen comes right on and might be a better solution for street use. On my 06 TE/SM610 I wired it to the stock light switch with the 2" always on (when switched on) and the 4" as the high beam. The flash to pass feature does not work well with the HID.
I'll do a separate write up on this but used the X2 HID this weekend at a 24 hour race and thought it worked VERY well. Nice width and very good distance.
So are you saying the 2" stays on when you switch to the hi? In other words when you go to hi the 2" stays on and the 4" begins to light? If that is the case lurkerlou needs to know what wires specifically you used to make that happen.
Yes. On my 610 there is an off, low, high. Off is off, low is just the 2" and high is both. I just checked with the test light which was which and wired them up that way. Simple.
Hmm I wired mine the same way using a test light finding the High beam , Low beam and the ground wire in the 610's stock wire harness that feeds the stock unit. I then wired it as described on the X2 HID description. Everything works but I lose the low beam when I switch to the high beam and vice versa leaving you without any light for a short period of time. So on yours you never lose the low beam?
I'm going to head for a ride to the shop and take it back out and see if the other (unused on the stock headlight) harness will supply an uninterupted 12 volts while switching from high to low beam. It might have been a haress used for something in a different country like you had mentioned on SMJ tdreyer. Thank you all for your help and I'll keep you posted. If memory serves me correct my wires were Blue = Ground Black = Low Beam White = High Beam I will double check that though too.
Well I have it all under control now. The other two plug connector that wasn't used for the original light shared a ground with the stock headlight and had an orange and red wire that remained hot when the high beam was activated unlike the black wire that ran the stock low beam. Plugged that wire into the low beam wire on the Trail Tech harness and bingo all was well. Low beam stays on with or without the High beam. Thanks for all your time and ideas. *Motosportz how long would it take to drive from Seattle to Vancouver Washinton? My son will be playing Lacrosse in Seattle around the 5th of December and I was hoping if you were open on the weekend I could come and buy some goodies.
I ordered a HID light for my 08 te610 on wendsday from Motosportz and i got it today[friday] and i am in Illinois,great service. I installed it and tried it out tonight. It is a great trail light and even with just the 2" on the street it is much better than the stock light, the 4" is awesome on the trails but not too good for the street, it shines a little to wide and would blind oncoming drivers. the 2 lights together are awesome but there is no high beam or low beam they both shine at about the same height the 2" is a tighter beam and shine farther down the road and the 4" shines wider lower and higher but not as far. it is important to get the height adjusted just right. Overall I am very happy with this light and the fast service from Motosportz and i will be buying more products from them in the future.
I ride on the street occasionally myself. Not far... just enough to get to the trails or go get gas, but I've been considering how I can have the 2" on for safeties sake, without being obnoxious to oncoming traffic. I'm not even going to worry about the 4", as I don't ride the bike on-road at night... yet. You see lots of non-DOT HID guys with tape and little plastic shields and shit stuck over their lights to create an "upper cutoff"... I've done it myself in the past. With the plastic cover lens that comes with the light, you kind of have an opportunity to experiment with light control. You can apply tape to determine where you're best restrictions are for your needs... and to carry it a step further, you can paint the shield, inside or out, to make those restrictions permanent. Just a thought, C
