An "interesting" observation, today riding in Sydney traffic, 30degC day, with the Booster Plug located in the airbox, the engine heat tricks the ECU in the "wrong" direction I'm about to move mine well out of the airbox
You want the boosterplug in the airbox. Otherwise it is measuring the wrong temperature air. The probe should always measure the temperature of air being combusted.
This is the very reason l moved my Booster Plug temperature sensor as far forward as possible. As l found out that slow moving in traffic or stopped, the engine heat was leaning out the fuel/air mix & the bike would stall. With the Pod filter mod there is virtually no air flowing across the air temperature sensor. ideally, the air temperature sensor could be mounted where the air filter used to be, completely in the air flow
K9, if you go to this thread, you'll see quite a few options for locating the sensor http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/booster-plug.29060/ also if you go here http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/st...-husky-650-intermittent-stopping.41191/page-4 I have done the same as post 61. Mega has been there, Thanks Megatiker, Buon lavoro
One of the criteria that has changed dramatically, is the airflow in the airbox with the conversion to Pod-mod There is virtually no airflow between the Pod & the throttle body, the Air Temp Sensor is covered by the Unifilter, & can only measure the heat directly above the engine My intention is to move this sensor to a location where it can measure the actual air temperature My Booster Plug sensor is already mounted in the right-hand air-box adjacent to the air inlet See above
I attached a remote reading thermometer into the airbox, adjacent to the air temperature sensor, when stationary, as in traffic when the fan cuts-in the temperature at the sensor was 53degC, no wonder the engine stalls the ecu sees 53 minus the Booster plug 20degC, the ecu sees 33degC & fuels for that, ie too lean I think that what actually happens because the throttle has not turned (the Booster Plug only cuts-in when the throttle moves) the ecu initially sees 53degC, the moment the throttle moves the ecu sees the Booster Plug adjusted temp, ie 33degC Prior to the Pod-mod, the airflow in the air box would have removed the engine heat continuously, it would appear that there is virtually no airflow over the sensor, which is behind the Unifilter I now understand that the air temp sensor must be moved away from engine heat I'll post a photo of my Booster Plug sensor
Note that a colder temperature is supposed to cause the ECU to ADD fuel. Colder air = denser air, which requires more fuel. So the ecu should be richening the mixture, not leaning it. That's the theory, anyway.
Cooler air is denser yes, however if the ECU is seeing air that's more than 33degC above ambient it is fuelling for that temperature, which is very lean In theory the Booster Plug brings ambient air temperature down by 20degC Air temperature in the airbox is not ambient, as it's effected by engine heat, especially when stopped in traffic, travelling slowly or the radiator fan is running
Correct ! This is the basis of all AIT spoofers and the theory on which I decided to build myself the... Coolest $1 AIT Spoofer yet. DO NOT READ THIS if you already spent $$$ on an AIT Spoofer and you are happy with it. Whichever AIT Spoofer you buy, basically they all follow the same concept in adjustment of the Sensor reading to fool the ECU into thinking the air is cooler than it is and adjusting the AFR mixture accordingly to make the engine run richer = smoother and cooler. All of the ECU adjustments are kept in check by the feedback from the O2 Lambda sensor and, according to some, the ECU is eventually able to learn from the Lambda and adapt back to the lean settings it was originally at. This 'learn' process seems to occur over different mileages and then only for some spoofer users as indicated by the poll in this forum. Based upon the information given in the original "Eruption" thread and others here I understand the AIT sensor to be a simple Thermistor with a nominal resistance of 5K Ohms at 25C and other AIT Spoofers whatever the cost, alter this resistance to give the ECU cooler readings and create the extra fuel effect. So the deal is "Resistance" - Now I also know that you do not need to spend $100 to alter resistances and here is the proof..... How about a simple controllable spoofer, one that can be adjusted for any situation whether it be running in colder cooler air or, as I am, in hot humid city traffic and also open mountain roads. Knowing the original AIT sensor to be a thermistor of base resistance 5K ohm and the "Eruption" to be several thermistors to create a base resistance of 12.5K ohms I set about making something that will operate through this range and beyond to give me more control. My average ambient temperature is 30C and I need to get the input to the ECU down at least 20C or more to give me the rich running I want. Tests showed that if I simply replaced the AIT sensor with a 5K ohm resistor I got a dash reading of 24.5C and the bike ran pretty well, but of course there was no allowance or control for actual changes in ambient air temperature. Similarly fitting a small Variable Resistor in place of the AIT sensor I got the ability to adjust the dash reading and the bike ran very well, but still there was no input or way to measure actual air temperature as a baseline. Also the original AIT sensor has been shown to be non-linear in the way it operates through the temperature ranges and I was keen to replicate this. My final idea involves fitting this little bit of kit purchased from my local Electronics Store for a total of 43 pesos = $1 Parts are - 1m of low impedance speaker wire, 1 x 20K ohm Variable Resistor (with knob) and 1 x Connector block. Fitting is simple so long as you are capable of soldering 2 small wires and the whole process can be reversed back to standard in a few minutes if that is ever necessary. The stock AIT Sensor remains in its original position within the airbox and operates in its normal non-linear fashion. Stage 1 Remove left hand plastics and locate the AIT sensor connector and unplug it. Pull the connector out from above the engine - there is not so much wire to work with but just enough so do not pull too hard. Peel back the tape and select one of the wires to cut. Cut only one wire and solder tin the bare ends. (All wire connections must be solder tinned as we are dealing with small resistances here) Then connect the wires into the connector block as shown... Next connect the 1m of speaker wire to the other side of the connector block and secure the wires with a small zip-tie. Wrap the connector and sensor wires back up in tape - the self annealing sort works very well. Stage 2. Refit the AIT sensor connector back onto the sensor and prepare to test the circuit as follows.... With the free ends of the speaker wires apart switch on the ignition and observe the dash temperature reading to be (.....T) and Engine Warning light on. Switch off the ignition then join the ends of the two speaker wires together to create the circuit. Switch ignition back on and observe the dash temperature reading to be normal ie direct from AIT sensor with no Engine Warning light. This proves the new wiring to be correct so switch off ignition and proceed.... Stage 3. Choose a suitable position to fit the Variable Resistor so you can adjust it. A 'suitable position' is anywhere you want but try to remain in the left side of the bike and avoid going up over the bars to the headlight as movements may cause wire abrasion or connector issues in the future. I chose to put mine in the plastics just above the coolant expansion tank cap, all the electrical connections are protected inside the plastics and I can easily each the knob with my left hand while driving. Cut speaker wires to length and connect the 20K ohm Variable Resistor to the ends, then perform a last test. With the VR backed off to zero, Switch on the ignition and observe the dash temperature reading as being normal. Slowly turn the VR and observe the dash temperature reading to change downwards = all is good so switch off and secure wires with a small zip tie and wrap the whole VR in tape to protect it. Stage 4. Replace the plastics and with the VR backed off to zero make sure the dash temperature reads normal or ambient as it previously did. Note the temperature and then turn the VR to dial in the offset that you require - I started at 10C and immediately noticed a big improvement. I find I can dial a range of around 45-50C lower than ambient with the 20K ohm VR, some for you living in cooler places may be able to fit a 10K ohm VR and achieve what you need with a more accurate dial range. There you have it - The Coolest Spoofer ever and it cost $1, is easily reversible and still uses the stock AIT sensor in its non-linear way. Run it with the VR backed off to achieve good gas mileage on the open road, then when required, eg in traffic, you can dial in your offset and have a richer smoother cooler running engine whenever you need it. Note: Try not to make too many small adjustments and give the ECU time to alter the mixture for different riding conditions. Cheers, MH
We do not know what the ECU is doing, but, having an accurate/consistant measurement of air temperature can't do much harm
I have a suspicion that the Booster Plug works because the second sensor is further up the air filter away from the exhaust and radiator fan. Wukka King recommends the additional sensor be mounted in the side cover near the front of the bike. Where the sensor is mounted can (maybe) make all the difference. There are other factors such as if the bike is used for commuting with a fair amount of heat coming off the engine ans exhaust or touring where the air moves away the heat way from the bike. I use my left leg as an indicator of how hot it is around the IAT. I have no training or knowledge on how the ECU interprets the data from the IAT or what it does with it. What I do know is the engine stumbles at light throttle closing and opening (20kmh - 50kmh traffic ) and an absolute delight when ridden with a bit of verve. (ie cool leg)
Hi John, some of us have a vague idea of what the ecu does, many of the previous posts have not either taken account of the Pod-mod or the bikes in question still have the original air-filter air box arrangement One of the most significant changes the Pod-mod does, beside keeping the air into the motor cleaner is that it has changed the airflow characteristics within the airbox - I believe sufficiently so as to effect the "air temp" as measured by the air temp sensor (ATS) in certain conditions My aim with my TR is to give the ecu the most accurate & consistent ambient air temperature I'll post results as I progress
This is what I'm doing today, moving the AIT out of the air-box, to a location forward of the Radiators The Pod-mod reduced the airflow across the AIT, therefore measures stationary hot air - my remote reading thermometer was showing 53degC at the AIT when stopped in traffic - the Booster plug reduced this by 20degC, the ecu still saw 33degC & fueled accordingly, given that ambient temperature was 22degC injection would have been very lean, hence the stumbles
I moved the AIT from the airbox above the motor, to where the original air filter was The Booster Plug sensor is in the right-hand "beak" I re-set the ecu, as per these posts Test ride appeared to give me better response, the dash temperature varied between 0.5degC & 3.5degC The motor pulls cleanly from just above 2,000rpm The Booster takes 20degC off - ambient temperature today was 20-23degC The Dash "ice-warning" flashing, indicating that the Booster Plug is doing it's job I'll arrange Dyno asap this week
$1 $1.95 Jaycar Electrics, l'm thinking Booster Plug ait, as l've already repositioned both ecu ait & Booster Plug ait well away from engine heat Fun experimenting The Booster Plug still allows the ecu to revert too default
