• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc wr125 dyno testing

I am not surprised at all by the spring results. The best option for the newer power valved engines with any adjustment to the linkage is white outer at the least in conjunction with an inner. If anything with the 125 motor I would use the stocker and maybe the silver or green spring. The 144 will be more forgiving but will still like the white or stiffer outer.

The best powerband I have experienced with the husky 125 is an 04 CR with the yellow and green. This is the older style PV's and porting. :excuseme: My 167 doesn't like the linkage adjusted at all up. Again it uses the older PV's and porting. It has the very best powerband of any small bore Husky I have ridden. Of course I like torquey motors with an angry personality when you really need it. It will tackle anything the 144 does a gear higher with no fuss.

I will be doing some more work this winter to try and offer more options with the linkage adjustment in mind.

Gsxr1000user,

Yours and Darty's work is phenomenal, keep it up. I love instruments that don't lie, even when our butt dyno disagree's.
 
gsxr1000user;122870 said:
I have changed the straps and the tension/preload on the rear tire.
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the tension has only a minor influence on power results. but it is very important to always use the same high (3 bar) tyre pressure, and a road tyre.

bytheway, the "fading" of torque above 10000 rpm is un-typical for this engine.

r
 
Rasputin, I am running a street/road tire and it was inflated to around 3bar at 90 degrees but it was colder Monday so I need to check it. I bet around 2bar now. I think the fading of torque is the mixture running lean on top with the stock needle. I will be posting graphs with the new needle and old needle but only the new graphs are compairable as the temp and other factors were affecting top end numbers.
 
Motherload of dyno graphs

Ok, it should go from left to right as I am explaining the setups for these graphs.(1) RM needle on the 3rd clip, 460main,45pilot at 2 turns out #4 slide and orange spring(2)same jetting except 2nd from top clip and white power valve spring(3)same jetting and stock power valve spring(4)same jetting and power valve disconnected and held closed to see if any more power to be had in the midrange; 1hp gain!(5)same jetting and stock with silver inner spring with about the same midrange gain.
 

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I have found and basically known that my rpm readings are about 1000rpm low and this is due to the smart ratio method in which we are getting the rpm reading of the speed of the dyno roller in a certain(2nd) gear. I could not get the spark plug pickup to read well so we held as steady at 3000rpm reading off the inductive pickup and set the dyno to calculate rpm increase off its speed sensors in the water brake. It is pretty accurate and we have used it numerous times but should have tried to set at a higher point. But, just read the charts and add 1000rpm and everything is good. We did not and will not change our setting as it adds a variable. Its only numbers guys pay attention to the curves and gains are gains regardless.
 
Great work gsxr1000user. I think the stock and silver spring graph is exactly what I expected to see. It gives the little more sooner and then a smoother and more manageable transition. My butt dyno tells me that the 144 will mirror that curve just kick it up about 10%. I also think the FMF Fatty will add a little meat to the bottom half of your curve having done back to back runs with the upgraded stock pipe. Wish you had a few different pipes on hand to do some comparisons. I have a bid in on a Doma right now and would love to see the results from the new 150 pipe as well as the HGS 144 pipe. So many questions so little time and availability.
 
I'm liking what I see in Graph 3. The torque curve is monotonically increasing and I think, if the accuracy is there, it beats Graph 5 over the 10 ft/lb mark and keeps it there just as high and long. Actually, not much difference between them.

One question, is this with the new Mikuni carb (I thnk it is from the discussion in the previous thread, but just making sure)?

Edit: Yeah, I see a little more between 7000 and 7500 as marked on the graph for #5. So it's looking like a slightly delayed opening of the PV is useful. Thanks for doing this. So, what's next? Planning any changes in the PV lever adustment, timing changes, base gasket changes?
 
It would aslo be very nice to get graphs at 3/4, 1/2, 1/4 throttle once the main jet and PV are sorted out so we can see the effects of changes in the needle, slide and pilot.
 
Ok, some of my opinion based on what I have done. Messing with the power valve "adjustment" is a waste of time. Not talking springs just slot above or below or anything in between the bolt head. I have done at least 20+ runs that I have not posted or quoted. AT LEAST 6+ HOURS OF TIME ON IT. On a 125 ANY early opening being full open, part open, whatever cost me numbers on the rollers. I think the adjustment on the arm is just to center the lever between the engagement spring on the pv arm so as to not over tension it in either direction. I am telling you, I thought opening the valve early was the shit and it is not. Fine tuning of jetting would make some changes, throttle opening would also change thing I think(BillO) I am going to try to do some 1/4-1/2 throttle testing with jetting. Not full RPM runs just to about 8-9k. I want to get my bike to run good with a 35ish pilot so that it is not dependant on it in ranges that "THE BOOKS" says it should not be influencing. With the stock needle(DEY AND BFY) the main jet nozzle is not large enough to let over about a 430ish main flow so the pilot is taking up the slack far further into the rev/throttle opening range. If you read some factory manuels I have it states the pilot NEVER stops contributing to the fuel mixture NEVER. It does not have a valve that turns off above 1/2 throttle! I need a smaller pilot so I can get more than 15 or so MPG in the woods. All my other bikes gained a lot of range by needle clip and pilot tuning on the crisp side with the main working/flowing enough on its own. Stock it will not. Drill a jet out to 1/8th inch and go drag racing down the street with the stock DEY/BFY needles to see if any change while only at full throttle and banging gears. I found none and my plug showed it. I will have to RIDE with the #4 and #5 slide but I am leaning toward #4 with a smaller pilot to get MPG and same torque/hp with a different jetting approch. Some goals can be met/equalled with different approaches. I would love to try pipes and other stuff BTWAY. Send me the stuff and I will test it. Thanks for all your help guys! DYNO ASSES!
 
Darty, I have a #5 slide but thanks. I feel I may have to ride the bike to see what I like when it comes to the fine details. You have been correct so far King Ass DynomiteO Meter. Yer the sheeite and thanks for the 10 buck fix.
 
TO BillO

Hey thick arse. On your way to Florida for the winter you snowbird, stop by and help me turn the dam throttle! My ears are killing me and I am stinking like hell from the plume of fume out the arse pipe on me wr!
Dam Cannokes(spelling? I stink at it)My wife is pissed at me for spending sooo much time on the poutter and none on her. Saays I gots the irr Reptile diss fuktion? WTF?
 
I am running a Fatty and a PC 2 on my 08 Husky CR125 and my butt-o-meter says it picked up a few hp/tq and it sure "feels" like it gets there quicker. I now need a air shifter to keep up with the engine LOL. Thanks agin for all the hard work and time you are putting in. Hey where in WV are you I may be going to Hatfield & McCoy next month?
 
john01;123098 said:
I am running a Fatty and a PC 2 on my 08 Husky CR125 and my butt-o-meter says it picked up a few hp/tq and it sure "feels" like it gets there quicker. I now need a air shifter to keep up with the engine LOL. Thanks agin for all the hard work and time you are putting in. Hey where in WV are you I may be going to Hatfield & McCoy next month?
Click to expand...

John,
We are going to Rockhouse 10/22 - 10/24 staying at Twin hollow CG come on up
Rob
 
John, I am downtown Charleston and you will be driving right by me on I64. Feel free to stop by Charleston High-End Motorworks. I am in the yellowbook for phone number/address. I do not usually answer out of area calls so leave a message and I will be screening calls. I may even be able to check out of work and take you for some free single track riding on the way to Hatfeilds.
 
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