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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
1978 390 Auto build
- Thread starter grouty
- Start date
Michel Dufayard
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Pics from Dr Kraft.
stormer254
Husqvarna
AA Class
My Military 250 has the fitting on the sprocket cover and an adapted brake pedal, I will take a photo and post it on here.
stormer254
Husqvarna
AA Class
Its the kickstarter that eats boots!!
stormer254
Husqvarna
AA Class
Here is the photo, I have not made the hand rear brake lever operational as I ride Autos because the left hand is not much use!
grouty
Auto Lover ...
Excellent Steve, thank you. This is exactly what I had in mind. I worked out the other night that a front brake cable unit from the forks would bolt on just there, and attach the cable where you have it. I am hoping to use a longer version of the front brake cable. I'll keep you posted. I just need to find another sprocket cover to drill holes in as I don't want to trash my nice one.
stormer254
Husqvarna
AA Class
Quote- I just need to find another sprocket cover to drill holes in as I don't want to trash my nice one.
In my shed!!
In my shed!!
grouty
Auto Lover ...
A mile stone reached today 
I have a spark !
I had an hour or so today and mounted the Electrex coil and voltage regulator under the tank. All seems to work fine. happy bunny am I
I also found time to put the new Boyesen reeds in and fit the intake side. All ready for the carb now.
Just a pair of Ohlins piggy backs to re-build and we're nearly there.
If you do have another sprocket cover Steve, I would be grateful to have it. Let me know the price and postage etc.
I have a spark !I had an hour or so today and mounted the Electrex coil and voltage regulator under the tank. All seems to work fine. happy bunny am I
I also found time to put the new Boyesen reeds in and fit the intake side. All ready for the carb now.
Just a pair of Ohlins piggy backs to re-build and we're nearly there.
If you do have another sprocket cover Steve, I would be grateful to have it. Let me know the price and postage etc.
grouty
Auto Lover ...
As always .... pictures.
I took the advice given by Andy at HVA to trim some of the excess plastic lugs from the CDI so it fitted neatly in the middle of the top tube using the nice stainless bracket provided. The voltage regulator is fitted in front. The angle is to let any water run off ! All I need to do now is work out what to do with the two yellow wires for the lights. Does one go to ground and the other to lights, or do they both go to lights ? The instructions provided by Electrex are great for the ignition, but there is no mention what so ever of what to do with the two yellow's !
The tank sits nice with no interference at all. This is the crappy tank that has been rolling round in a damp shed for about 12 years. It cleaned up pretty good. I managed to get most of the dents out barring a couple. A mate painted it and applied the stickers. I am not worried about the small dents as this bike will be a rider, not a show queen.
Inlet manifold all done. I must get the air line out and blow the dust off. The camera flash really shows it up !
I took the advice given by Andy at HVA to trim some of the excess plastic lugs from the CDI so it fitted neatly in the middle of the top tube using the nice stainless bracket provided. The voltage regulator is fitted in front. The angle is to let any water run off ! All I need to do now is work out what to do with the two yellow wires for the lights. Does one go to ground and the other to lights, or do they both go to lights ? The instructions provided by Electrex are great for the ignition, but there is no mention what so ever of what to do with the two yellow's !
The tank sits nice with no interference at all. This is the crappy tank that has been rolling round in a damp shed for about 12 years. It cleaned up pretty good. I managed to get most of the dents out barring a couple. A mate painted it and applied the stickers. I am not worried about the small dents as this bike will be a rider, not a show queen.
Inlet manifold all done. I must get the air line out and blow the dust off. The camera flash really shows it up !
Joao Graca
Husqvarna
nice project, keep the good work! 
grouty
Auto Lover ...
A nice find via ebay in the UK. A pair of remote Ohlins ! Described as 16" centres. Ideal !
In reality they were 16"1/2 .... too long. But they seemed ok. I knew they would require a full rebuild and a lick of paint.
I have had a box full of Ohlins shocks and parts for the last 10 years or so, along with a genuine rebuild kit. So I thought I would have everything needed.
The piggy back canisters will need replacing with new ones as they are too scuffed.
I was going to send it all off in a big box to be rebuilt by someone else. But, thanks to a friend, and his powers of persuasion, it seems not ! I now have a very large box of shock parts completely disassembled. So I am going with it, and with his help rebuild them.
When we took them apart the bump stops fell into powder at the slightest touch .... need to replace those too. Lucky I have a new pair with the rebuild kit.
One of the shocks was perfect. Even had good bump and rebound damping. The other was shot, along with a small rust mark on the shaft. So, two new shafts methinks.
The lower eye on the shot shock had a horrible weld attachment and was knackered. Both lower eyes will be replaced with new shorter ones to give me the 16" length I want.
The springs are now on their way to the powder coaters to be done in black. Not sure about the colour for the helper springs at the top. Black as well ..... ?
In reality they were 16"1/2 .... too long. But they seemed ok. I knew they would require a full rebuild and a lick of paint.
I have had a box full of Ohlins shocks and parts for the last 10 years or so, along with a genuine rebuild kit. So I thought I would have everything needed.
The piggy back canisters will need replacing with new ones as they are too scuffed.
I was going to send it all off in a big box to be rebuilt by someone else. But, thanks to a friend, and his powers of persuasion, it seems not ! I now have a very large box of shock parts completely disassembled. So I am going with it, and with his help rebuild them.
When we took them apart the bump stops fell into powder at the slightest touch .... need to replace those too. Lucky I have a new pair with the rebuild kit.
One of the shocks was perfect. Even had good bump and rebound damping. The other was shot, along with a small rust mark on the shaft. So, two new shafts methinks.
The lower eye on the shot shock had a horrible weld attachment and was knackered. Both lower eyes will be replaced with new shorter ones to give me the 16" length I want.
The springs are now on their way to the powder coaters to be done in black. Not sure about the colour for the helper springs at the top. Black as well ..... ?
stormer254
Husqvarna
AA Class
Do you have a manual for the rebuild? I have found a spare sprocket cover, I will try and post it in the next couple of days.
grouty
Auto Lover ...
You remember this pair of nasty looking shocks ......
A steal from ebay to keep company the crap already in the shed.
Well ...... thanks to Andy at HVA Factory they have been transformed. We stripped them a few weeks ago, and I cleaned, blasted and painted the bodies.
This Saturday saw them rebuilt. From this ...
To this ...
Very happy. Thank you to Andy for showing me some of the "Dark Art"
A steal from ebay to keep company the crap already in the shed.
Well ...... thanks to Andy at HVA Factory they have been transformed. We stripped them a few weeks ago, and I cleaned, blasted and painted the bodies.
This Saturday saw them rebuilt. From this ...
To this ...
Very happy. Thank you to Andy for showing me some of the "Dark Art"
dartyppyt
Husqvarna
Pro Class
You remember this pair of nasty looking shocks ......
A steal from ebay to keep company the crap already in the shed.
Well ...... thanks to Andy at HVA Factory they have been transformed. We stripped them a few weeks ago, and I cleaned, blasted and painted the bodies.
This Saturday saw them rebuilt. From this ...
To this ...
Very happy. Thank you to Andy for showing me some of the "Dark Art"
Those look sweet! Nice job!
grouty
Auto Lover ...
So ... Sunday's progress.
I butchered an old front brake arm, and cut the clevis end off. This was welded onto the top of the rear brake lever. I had the cable made up last week.
I have still to clean it up and have it powder coated to match the frame. But it works better than I could have ever imagined. Well pleased. The brake light switch (genuine Kawasaki) is clipped to the frame with a bracket from a ZZR600. Just the attachment to the pedal to do. I have a new stock of cobalt drills for this ! It's gonna be tough. The cable attachment point on the sprocket cover is a standard front brake one that usually attaches to the left fork leg. This part is a Titanium one from HVA Factory.
I butchered an old front brake arm, and cut the clevis end off. This was welded onto the top of the rear brake lever. I had the cable made up last week.
I have still to clean it up and have it powder coated to match the frame. But it works better than I could have ever imagined. Well pleased. The brake light switch (genuine Kawasaki) is clipped to the frame with a bracket from a ZZR600. Just the attachment to the pedal to do. I have a new stock of cobalt drills for this ! It's gonna be tough. The cable attachment point on the sprocket cover is a standard front brake one that usually attaches to the left fork leg. This part is a Titanium one from HVA Factory.