• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1984 WR400 help

After I gave it a little turn at the bolt it seemed to work fine. It is -10 degrees Fahrenheit out now, so I'll be finishing tomorrow
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good!..in addition to exercising the shift drum make sure the Y-piece above the shift drum is free, (mine was stuck, frozen on that axle at the left)

exercise anything that moves in there, I see rust and gumbo, a good soak and cleaning will help...condensation develops inside engines and transmissions over time...rust never sleeps.

Soak, spray, rinse and repeat, clutch debris, rust, gumbo combo: oil and water churned together with clutch debris becomes gumbo snot as well as rust. Don't be in a hurry, clean it clean it clean it.

I used a scotch bright pad chunk twisted in some electrical wire to stir the settled crap on the bottom of the transmission, accessed thru the drain plug and tipped over..and after several soaks/rinses/sprays with diesel fluid, it finally came clean...as well as bits of metal and whatever else is hiding in there after 30 years.

Progress!...you'll get it right!
 
Thanks. So next weekend I'll do a few soaks. I plan to leave the clutch cover off, tip to the right, fill with diesel, then drain. Repeat a few times.
 
After first soak. Stuck q tips in and no chunks just a bit of black. Same with the oil pan of diesel. Just a bit of dusty stuff at the bottom. It's soaking again tonight.20160220_200158.jpg
 
All done soaking 2 nights plus a gallon rinsedan through it.

Going to let it air dry til next weekend and assemble.

Added some washers just to try, as I imagine many will advise against running it like this...
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Last step is finding these going to make lots of call this week on em.
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insert a old clutch perch or front brake adjuster to get the standoff. more "sano" and easiey to pop cable off iff needed as there is the slot in it. will also slide into casting hole and stay
 
Put a 10 mm wrench on the bolt, on end of shift drum while turning the clutch shaft try to shift it then.
Tranny won't shift easily unless its moving, lay it on it's side and turn the rear wheel.
Later George
 
Yup, had to turn counter sprocket & drum at same time to get it to shift. Got my technique down after several attempts.
 
thanks dukkman... that was obvious, though my brain was stuck on "how can i find a NOS part"

i found some that are very close that i should be able to make work.

mine are 1/2" thick x 1" diameter with m8x15mm studs.
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dampers arrive tomorrow and i should be with the bike sunday and monday. i should be able to fully reassemble and possibly test drive it
 
Ok I finished the reassembly.

Only issues are as follows, but I'll test drive soon maybe tomorrow.
1. Exhaust dampers aren't happy on their position. Likely why they keep breaking. See below pic. They deformed just from torquing snug with lock washers. And what a pain it was to install. I did use rtv this time on the motor end.
2. The cable adjuster I had was too big for the perch above the clutch cover. I left the washers for now til I find a smaller one.
3. The timing was tough to set accurately. Trial and error...


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Just mailed in my lifetime 52 dollar antique off road registration. Working on getting it registered on the road.
 
For the exhaust mounting you could try nylocks which don't have to be torqued up to prevent them coming undone.
 
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