• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1984 WR400 help

It sounded like it was running well in your video, but as the guys above mentioned, you will definitely need to replace the key lap the flywheel/crank.
The bike looks great by the way!
 
lap it until you have a smooth even "ground" mark all the way around the shaft, its this contact rather than the key way that holds it on.

simple but annoying fix.
 
thanks guys. i did lap the flywheel before. i had never previously done this on anything before. anyways i did do that, i think i actually forgot to torque the bolt down tight upon reassembly. oops...

ill try my husky dealer in the states tomorrow
 
Replaced the flywheel key.
Took it down the dirt road today. Will get to the trail shortly. She seemed to go very good. Still possibly not perfect but very good. Maybe play with timing after a while but nothing urgent.

Swapped to nylocks. I think the dampers should be thicker though. I matched what I had on it which couldve been wrong.... maybe someone can measure to compare?
20160319_143431.jpg

Tried this adjuster but pulled it out too far so I went back to the washers.
20160319_143133.jpg

New plate on and reg laminated and stapled under seat. I don't use the seat bolts...
20160319_140442.jpg
 
just fyi..the later liquid cooled bikes dont even have that rubber exhaust mount present...just one above the cylinder head and one at the stinger..if you dont use the seat bolts, how do you keep the seat on?
do you have a way to measure timing?
 
Thank for the quick response.

I just went to the trail and it had a big gate saying "closed to wheeled vehicles"
So I refrained. However I did open it up down the street to get there, and compared to before, she rips!!!

Not sure what made the big difference but I'm thinking timing...?

I have an old timing gun I can try. Next week.
The seat hasn't popped off on me yet. I haven't ridden it much or hard yet... maybe I'll use some sort of quick release pin or a wing nut and wing bolt. Interesting about the later bikes not using as many of the rubber mounts.
 
Not sure if this says anything about timing, but if I rev say 2nd gear up then let off the throttle and then if i get back on the throttle there isn't full power. It seems like it would rather shift up to 3rd. Prob normal?
 
tonyvisone said:
Not sure if this says anything about timing, but if I rev say 2nd gear up then let off the throttle and then if i get back on the throttle there isn't full power. It seems like I would rather shift up to 3rd. Prob normal?
Click to expand...
maybe...but need to get timing set where it needs to be to avoid that factor as a variable..you can use book spec or like many of us, back it off half a degree or so.
i.e. if book spec is 2.2 btdc, use 1.5mm.....will lessen octane require requirement and reduce kickback.
 
Ya I don't have a TDC indicator. I put a screwdriver in plug hole to find TDC and moved it from 20 ish to 15ish. Tough to get a good reading I know, but it seemed better...

Book spec is 17 so I went 15 as we discussed a while back. Would a timing light work to read it at the flywheel?
 
Hust a little wheelie. Still maybe not full power in the lower gears but 3rd and up keep putting out power that i never had before. The wheelie is in 2nd I believe and you can see it plane off in power but still lots of fun. Needs to dial in timing in the near future.

Watch "1984 Husky Wr400 test ride" on YouTube
View: https://youtu.be/guhOXkdChi8
 
My 85 400WR , had great low end power, but would spin the tire on the pavement in 2nd & 3rd, right before it wheelied, it was
a rocket :applause:.. Wish Husky had made a 400CR with dual shocks in 85, that would have been awesome. Maybe a awesome
project bike...just saying

Husky John
 
interesting. you guys think i need to set the timing earlier?

if i hook a timing light up and shine it on the flywheel will that work? and would it give an accurate reading?

otherwise, ill have to buy one of those tdc tools. can anybody recommend a decent one at a decent price?
 
Battery powered strobe works a treat on these.
Take care you don't advance the timing too far as they break feet and left hand side cases.
 
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