• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1984 WR400 help

Mmmmm parts! And better yet looks like I get 2 seals on that sprocket bearing.
20160112_172654.jpg

So all I need is oil and front 2 exhaust dampers. Thinking of going with the atf type f as mentioned above. No motorcycle shops nearby and the ones I called would need to order sae 30.
20160112_150338.jpg 20160112_152505.jpg
 
all of the above weights will work fine. just keep it changed..
i dont think anyone is bizarre for using the briggs oil, im glad it works and nothing slips. i wouldnt go out of my way for it tho. obsessing trying to find it would be bizarre, when there are plenty of oils that work, available at any napa, autozone, advance, etc etc. good for everyone to know its an option..i really dont think these bikes are picky about oil, long as the clutch likes it.
 
So I got the bearing seal on, that was super easy!
20160116_184444.jpg

New clutch cable is in, but as expected..... still slack in the cable..
20160116_195635.jpg
20160116_195612.jpg

I lapped the flywheel and just need to reassemble. And gasket surfaces and cleaned and new gasket is ready to go...
 
86 400 XC said:
There is a longer clutch lever that can be used on the motor.
The lever you have looks kinda short.
This could fix the extra slack problem in the cable.

http://www.husqvarna-parts.com/catalog/item/3736875/7315678.htm
Click to expand...
the lever phil sells is not longer...the "hp" lever is simply a liquid cooled style lever. dont get me wrong, its a great upgrade for any primary kick engine that doesnt have the zee style arm..but its really an angle thing that the improvement lies in. phils are nice as they are stainless and less prone to wear, but are the exact same shape as 85-88 arms..
i do believe the the four stroke arms might be a tad longer, but that might be with the italian/swede ones..
 
i think its the way its bent making it appear that way. the liquid one has more material but sharper bends. layed over top each other, they appear to have almost identical mechanical advantage, its just the liquid ones have a much better angle, and the cable is straighter out of its housing. so i guess one is more efficient than the other...
i can go check in the garage again, i know i have both laying around..i just automatically put the liquid ones on any air cooled engines..
 
a longer arm would only require the lever to be pulled farther to fully engage the clutch. these bikes already require the lever to be just about to the bars anyway..also why its important to stick with the original style maguras, with their long throw. the new style lever sets really dont have enough "throw" to get the job done..
 
sounds good. it doesnt take alot, and i have checked a few times getting the motor hot..havent noticed the play changing too much..
 
you just need enough play that the clutch isn't slipping ie slightly "on" and that the lever adjuster can be used to get enough pull on the clutch to fully disengage. huskys (and most euro's) are known to have permanent drag on the clutch making the finding of neutral when stopped almost impossible. but by careful adjustment of the clutch internal adjuster, ive always got this to be very close to negligible. the 510 is a bit of dragger tho, it needs a further tweak. The 400 is like butter and 0 gear can be found when stationary but its beginning to slip so plates and springs are now required.
 
so, surprize, is the clutch always running true with the springs bolts and casting as delivered...or would there be some benefit in a dial indicator setup to get the plate run out as true as possible.

On old Brit iron the springs are each set to minimize drag and it makes a lot of difference. I haven't heard anything here yet on that, so we all just rely on the springs and casting and machining to be perfect then? Out of true is drag...

(remember how I was trying to be careful with the plates and springs...you or someone here said 'take em out and play cards with them ' or similar)
 
looks like a clutch lever in a front brake perch, since the nut is on top. wont hurt tho..still a magura
 
justintendo said:
looks like a clutch lever in a front brake perch, since the nut is on top. wont hurt tho..still a magura
Click to expand...

interesting..... what if the cable barrel hole in the lever is closer (if its not the right lever). ill measure next time im with the bike. lever obviously get replaced all the time, and when my father rode this bike a lot (80s/90s) there was no internet obviously, and husky dealers in this area are rare. something close could have been thrown on....?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top