• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1984 WR400 help

what wait no way is your cable
stretched that far i had a similar deal turned out it was the hole in the arm was all pushed out whats the inter hub and pressure plate look like is there a washer on both sides of tho throwout bearing????
 
troy deck said:
what wait no way is your cable
stretched that far i had a similar deal turned out it was the hole in the arm was all pushed out whats the inter hub and pressure plate look like is there a washer on both sides of tho throwout bearing????
Click to expand...
I appreciate the input. There are tons of pics of all that back in the thread. Sorry to not report them for you, but if you gave them a look it would be appreciated
 
Been riding that bike in the ocean by the looks of those bars! Bars are one thing you want in good condition and not heavily rusted. Cheap to replace too! Safety first.
 
PEZBerq said:
Been riding that bike in the ocean by the looks of those bars! Bars are one thing you want in good condition and not heavily rusted. Cheap to replace too! Safety first.
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It's just surface rust where it was scratched. I'll get to that stuff once the clutch is fixed and I find some exhaust mounts
 
I was just emptying out the oil pan into a bucket and heard something drop out.... realized it was this needle bearing. Its missing one pin. not sure where it came from...
20160104_162715.jpg
 
that would have been very bad. that bearings fails and causes some damage...
do not shim the cable., those prongs can bust off the block if you arent careful. need to find whats missing or assembled wrong from your clutch assy. according to the measurement of my cable yours doesnt seem stretched. just sorely in need of a good lube. not wd40..
when adjusting the basket, its easy to adjust it way tight..so you not being able to means theres something very wrong. have you studied the parts diagram and studied the bike to make sure everything is accounted for?
 
I would buy a new cable. There is no way that cable is stretched that much. I wouldn't count on that being the original or the correct cable. Nothing else is jumping out at me saying anything else looks terribly wrong. A new cable would be an inexpensive place to start...or finish.
 
a new cable feels good! still weird..his measurement is close to what mine is installed on my bike, which bothers me
either way a new motion pro (terminator if possible) feels great...
 
Thanks guys. I'll order the cable, bearing/seal, clutch cover gasket and hopefully exhaust mounts tomorrow.

So now for the waiting game.

But in the mean time I'm in new hampshire with the bike for the night. Going to adjust the timing from 22 to 15.
Of course pages 23-25 are missing in the manual.

I loosened the outside Allen heads and am maxed out at around 17. I presume the flatheads in the center do not allow for more adjustment?? I've done many jet skis and it's always those outside allens. And I usually blue loctite them all.20160104_185953.jpg
 
Clutch cable is on the way.motion pro terminator for only $23us
Screenshot_2016-01-04-19-10-58.png

And by the way I do own one of these and cable life lube. Will lube new cable when it arrives
20160103_220211.jpg
 
justintendo said:
that would have been very bad. that bearings fails and causes some damage...
do not shim the cable., those prongs can bust off the block if you arent careful. need to find whats missing or assembled wrong from your clutch assy. according to the measurement of my cable yours doesnt seem stretched. just sorely in need of a good lube. not wd40..
when adjusting the basket, its easy to adjust it way tight..so you not being able to means theres something very wrong. have you studied the parts diagram and studied the bike to make sure everything is accounted for?
Click to expand...

Yes quite a bit. Guess we'll see what the cable does when it comes in and go from there
 
dukkman said:
Lap that flywheel to the shaft before you reassemble and you will never have trouble with it spinning [ shearing key ] .
Cheers

The seal we have talked about is that black plastic bit. You can see the bearing numbers easily so buy a new bearing and gently take out one of the seals with a sharpened hacksaw blade and fit it to that bearing. [ they just pop in with your thumb ]
Hard to explain easy to do.

When you take the stator off you will see much the same plate under it with a seal fitted which may be the one halls is talking about.
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im unsure what you mean by lap. a 1986 manual uses the same term
Untitled.png
 
Smear a small amount of FINE lapping paste on the tapper of the crank, push the flywheel on the crank with a twisting motion. Rotate the flywheel a number of times while pulling the flywheel slightly on and off the crank
 
darren7878 said:
Smear a small amount of FINE lapping paste on the tapper of the crank, push the flywheel on the crank with a twisting motion. Rotate the flywheel a number of times while pulling the flywheel slightly on and off the crank
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Yes .
Also
When finished you will have a uniform grey colour over both tapers [ shaft and flywheel] .
Use water based lapping paste [ available from any auto shop ] and clean thoroughly when finished.
The key is only for position.
I do it on all my tapers now even Briggs n Straton.
 
thanks guys, ill pick some up today.

does anybody know the answer to this one. seems easy, but like i said my the PDF is missing the timing pages (23/24). are the flathead screws for additional adjustment? they are slotted. i have maxed out the allen head bolt slots on the stator plate and am just about at 17 degrees.

tonyvisone said:
Going to adjust the timing from 22 to 15.
Of course pages 23-25 are missing in the manual.

I loosened the outside Allen heads and am maxed out at around 17. I presume the flatheads in the center do not allow for more adjustment?? I've done many jet skis and it's always those outside allens.
View attachment 63812
Click to expand...
 
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