• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1984 WR400 help

justintendo said:
also need to inspect the what the pushrod pushes against..the actuating cam that lever bolts to. im surprised that rod is worn that way..perhaps that cam is really bad as well? surprising still given the overall shape of bike. sounds like you are adjusting correctly. there has to a missing part somewhere or incorrect cable. the adjustment at the center of the basket is sensitive and covers alot. something is wrong you are out of adjustment that bad. missing a clutch disc?
Click to expand...
I'll pull the cam out to see it
Pics soon.
Is cable stretch possible? It could be original
Oh and BTW this is the second push rod I have wrecked.

Currently the clutch pack is 33mm thick with 8 fibers and 7 plates. Fibers on both outsides obviously.
I just pulled out my old clutch pack from a parts box (I changed it just because they were stuck together years ago) and that was also 8 fiber 7 plates but at 33.4mm was almost half a mm thicker...

I cannot figure out how to remove the cam. Checking online now
 
The clutch arm, up on top of cases, looks fine or maybe adjusted a tiny bit too far.
Wrong cable?
 
to remove the cam, just undo the allen head bolt on the side just below the lever and pull the lever up. it should pop out the seal as you do. shimples. did you download the 400 parts manual from the tech ref section? you can see how it fits together there

when I got to my 400, it had 20 small washers filling up the large amount of cable slack. It took about 4 or 5 turns of the internal adjuster to bring the cable back to the lbar lever adjuster and I was just about out of clutch as its now slipping. the friction plates were worn down and the metal plates also showing wear with the dimples starting to be worn out.

I may be wrong but I assumed that the 2mm difference is the minimum difference btw pack and basket and at 1mm, your worn past serviceable. can someone confirm or correct this assumption before Tony buys new clutch:excuseme:

enjoying this thread, you should have it up and running like a new one soon just like this...

View: https://youtu.be/nGlLmk3fAvU
 
the rods should last a few hundred hours, unless you race or do hard woods riding. im not a big clutch abuser, so ive never really seen much wear..just a good dimple on that cam.
lay a thick rag or small piece of wood on top of the block and use a pry bar or large screw driver to slowly pop the arm and cam out. if desired you can unbolt the arm after removal but it needs to stay bolted on to use for prying. as stated it will bring the seal up with it. you will likely need to back off the adjustment on the pushrod first.
i like to grease one side of my sidecase gasket to allow for damage free removal..
 
cable stretch is likely but not like that.
a motion pro cable or really any new, lubed cable makes ALL the difference in good feel, especially with a dab of grease on the lever pivot and the cable ball end in the lever. (on the bars)
 
Thanks guys.

The rod I took out years ago was probably stock. The one I put in lasted maybe 5 hours. But maybe I didn't adjust it right back then.

Here's the cam. It looks good. It was the seal confusing me. I had the screw and push rod out.
20160103_161343.jpg

To simulate a thicker clutch pack I can add a plate and fiber and see what happens.... just a thought.

Following pic is with clutch apart and rod push all the way in by hand.
20160103_161804.jpg
 
the only place it touches is where that dimple is..it doesnt look terribly worn..
i ve had them bad enough to where ive welded and reground flat again.
 
guys, is the 5 spring set supposed to have the single ball bearing under the top hat? if so maybe its missing here? something doesnt add up..
 
no you got that all backward the pressure plate would be out farther and you need to adjust the push rod longer [ turn the little allen screw in]
 
not sure as i dont have any spare clutch cables i dont think laying around....as an aside cable looks dry as popcorn fart. sea foam "deep creep" is an excellent cable lube, and actually makes it the whole way down the cable.

just roughly measured the exposed inner cable on my 88, which is adjusted pretty good. roughly 7.5 inches...this is counting whatsinside the perch and whats naked above the crankcase,,so i dont think the cable is to blame..
 
troy deck said:
no you got that all backward the pressure plate would be out farther and you need to adjust the push rod longer [ turn the little allen screw in]
Click to expand...

thats what i mean. itll push the basket and push rod away from the cam. then ill have to push the push rod back in with the screw (which is close to maxed out) and then i t would be (i believe) how it is now....

let me know if im confusing it up

justintendo said:
not sure as i dont have any spare clutch cables i dont think laying around....as an aside cable looks dry as popcorn fart. sea foam "deep creep" is an excellent cable lube, and actually makes it the whole way down the cable.

just roughly measured the exposed inner cable on my 88, which is adjusted pretty good. roughly 7.5 inches...this is counting whatsinside the perch and whats naked above the crankcase,,so i dont think the cable is to blame..
Click to expand...

awesome thanks a ton. so something is wrong above and beyond all the possibilities i have exhausted...
 
tonyvisone said:
thats what i mean. itll push the basket and push rod away from the cam. then ill have to push the push rod back in with the screw (which is close to maxed out) and then i t would be (i believe) how it is now....

let me know if im confusing it up



awesome thanks a ton. so something is wrong above and beyond all the possibilities i have exhausted...
Click to expand...
sounds like something is missing causing excessive play..or the stack is too short
 
So I put 2 extra plates in just to simulate a thicker pack. This resulted as 35.5mm which is 3.5mm thicker than the empty space.
Still the same resulting cable slack but just had to put the center basket screw in deeper so rod contacted.
20160103_213656.jpg

However, should this look like this??? Hoping the answer is no...
20160103_215514.jpg
 
yes the cable attaches to the block just like that..i thought you were asking about the inner cable.
 
is that an original cable? I bought a clutch cable from husky-parts a few years ago that was cut wrong, length was off, Phil promptly replaced it. If everything else is right, get a new cable.
 
It's likely stock. My father rode this bike from 84 til the late 90s, when i rode a pw80. then it sat and ran once or twice a year
 
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