• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1984 WR400 help

Think I figured out clutch adjustment.
Looked something like this. Went all the way in then backed out 1/4 turn. (Going off logic)
20151220_002250.jpg

But the cable needed to be pretty far out, but atleast a few actual threads in... (not just in a few stripped threads like before)
20151220_002318.jpg

Oh and when I had the plates out many of the steels felt pretty stuck to the friction plates. Could just been oil adhesion but some felt tougher. it starts and finishes with a friction plate
 
need to adjust based off play at actuator arm as previously mentioned. unless you think other members time is wasted explaining things. measuring play at arm is how the manual states it is done, and this is very sensitive. too little play and it will slip, too much and it will take alot of adjustment at the lever to make up for it.
lube the cable while its out of the lever..perfect adjustment and lube makes a big difference in feel
 
justintendo said:
need to adjust based off play at actuator arm as previously mentioned. unless you think other members time is wasted explaining things. measuring play at arm is how the manual states it is done, and this is very sensitive. too little play and it will slip, too much and it will take alot of adjustment at the lever to make up for it.
lube the cable while its out of the lever..perfect adjustment and lube makes a big difference in feel
Click to expand...

By the way, multiple times I have gone to left kickers and searched wr400 clutch snd only get a bunch of junk. Am I searching wrong? I'm somewhat new to forms
 
Take the stack apart (unless you did that earlier) and measure the height. It should fall between the measurements given in the manual. Make sure the plates and frictions are fitted in the right order. Yes, a new push rod maybe. Have you double checked to make sure there is nothing missing ?
 
Yes 26 x 1.5mm male right hand thread only safe way, take clutch plates out clean and check I rough the steels up in a figure eight lightly on level concrete, some have aluminium plates but would change to steel.use aft in gearbox c h ange regularly if your clutch hub is he l d in oby a circlip make sure the rough jagged edge faces outward shouldn't have any grooving in the fingers as its a steel body, 6mm free play measured at v end of actuating arm.check stator side seal.
 
tonyvisone said:
By the way, multiple times I have gone to left kickers and searched wr400 clutch snd only get a bunch of junk. Am I searching wrong? I'm somewhat new to forms
Click to expand...

just search "clutch" and do it under the advanced search, then you can only search titles.
sometimes you just need to read the info thats been presented to you right here in your own thread, like i was referring to.
please get a flywheel puller..
 
I believe the flywheel puller is the same for both Motoplat Mini 6 and SEM. At least I do not remember using a different one as I have several in the range.
 
Thanks guys. Forgot to update last week. I bought the puller it should be here tomorrow.

I was thinking to cut circles like below. And put a bolt through it for the exhaust.... I know it's different than stock but I would have an unlimited supply of them....
It's super high temp silicone.
20151226_151611.jpg
 
If you are thinking of using these to mount the exhaust ...... then NO ! Unless you want to keep welding up cracks in the expansion chamber.
The correct mountings are not expensive, and are there for a reason.
 
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