• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1984 WR400 help

Exhaust mount rubbers should last for a very long time. One ride only means something was done wrong. Possibly fitted with excessive stress on it. Was it an aftermarket exhaust?
 
justintendo said:
you will have to disconnect the cable from the lower arm so you can feel the arm with your finger. you will need a box wrench to fit the nut, an allen to fit the shaft, and something to stick in the hole. i use an allen for this also. rotate everything until the allen key or whatever can be inserted into the hole to lock things together. turning the inner allen shaft in or out will adjust freeplay at the actuator arm. you will want very little here, i run 3mm at the end of the arm..
this will keep a good engagement and help with the adjustment at the lever on the bars
Click to expand...


thanks tendo. i did all this and with the allen all the way in it doesnt even come close to taking up the freeplay. new push rod would fix this i believe?
 
heres an interesting post i found from andy at HVA

"Don't place too much importance on the thickness of plates. The key to all clutches is making sure the stack of plates is at least 2mm more than the gap you get when the clutch hub and pressure plate are held together.

Andy."

ill have to check this out. ill be with the bike for the weekend after new years
 
also im currently trying to order the following parts and have contacted a few people

push rod
clutch plates, steel (if i wind up needing them)
clutch cover gasket
exhaust rubber mounts
sprocket seal

once all this is done ill be onto some thorough cleaning and graphics. oh and riding!
 
Flywheel puller works nice and easy. A million times easier than the jet skis pull
20151230_193218.jpg
And pulled this off to check out the seal since halls said they could sell me it for 15 bucks
20151230_193548.jpg 20151230_193556.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 20151230_193556.jpg
    20151230_193556.jpg
    155.2 KB · Views: 6
Lap that flywheel to the shaft before you reassemble and you will never have trouble with it spinning [ shearing key ] .
Cheers

The seal we have talked about is that black plastic bit. You can see the bearing numbers easily so buy a new bearing and gently take out one of the seals with a sharpened hacksaw blade and fit it to that bearing. [ they just pop in with your thumb ]
Hard to explain easy to do.

When you take the stator off you will see much the same plate under it with a seal fitted which may be the one halls is talking about.
 
How in pikkies.
Tool

Gently insert into seal

Pop seal out with a turning motion like turning a screwdriver.
Gently
Seal out

Done

And put back in

Obviously the shaft through the bearing will make it hard to remove that seal but it's knackered anyhow so who cares how it ends up.
It's the new one that you don't want to damage.
 
Why not just replace with the new bearing instead of jacking the seal from a new bearing. To put into a worn bearing.
Have done hundreds of them so don't say can't do it without splitting cases.
Don't ask
Later George
 
Up-tite said:
Why not just replace with the new bearing instead of jacking the seal from a new bearing. To put into a worn bearing.
Have done hundreds of them so don't say can't do it without splitting cases.
Don't ask
Later George
Click to expand...

Just an easy shortcut George and I never said not to replace the bearing and in fact have said in a earlier post that others had done exactly that .

So show us in pikkies just how you did this so Tonyvisone can fix his problem properly.
 
See this thread and the link about half way down to a write up done by someone on Adventure Rider. Maybe Up-tite has a better method, but this looks like a reasonable method, although on the Husky I would still apply some heat with a torch to expand the bearing pocket before using the puller.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/countershaft-seal-bearing.9027/#post-92709

And if you really want to avoid leaking oil from the countershaft, try this from HVA.
http://hva-factory.com/bottom-end-g...g-flange-and-splined-spacer-seal-replaces-161
 
tonyvisone said:
heres an interesting post i found from andy at HVA

"Don't place too much importance on the thickness of plates. The key to all clutches is making sure the stack of plates is at least 2mm more than the gap you get when the clutch hub and pressure plate are held together.

Andy."

ill have to check this out. ill be with the bike for the weekend after new years
Click to expand...


Thanks guys! For now I'll swap the seal only. And I know how to do the bearing when the time comes. I have too many toys so I try to not fix it unless it's broken. As I'm sure is the same for many of you.

I measured my clutch pack to be 33mm and the space they go into (without them in it) to be 32mm. So the pack is 1mm greater, not 2 as andy wrote about20151231_171649.jpg
 
Ahoy mates

the new pushrod came. Here they all are.
20160102_142239.jpg
And i adjusted this screw to this point where I had about 3 mm of play where the clutch cable barrel goes on the arm.
20160102_231407.jpg
20160102_231442.jpg
But my clutch cable at the bars still looks like this...
20160102_231418.jpg
 
at1mm difference, you apparently are missing a lot of clutch plate friction material....hence the excessive cable play regardless of the lever free play...its freeplay is way to close to the cyl and needs some new friction plates to move that lever further back and fit the clutch cable....
 
also need to inspect the what the pushrod pushes against..the actuating cam that lever bolts to. im surprised that rod is worn that way..perhaps that cam is really bad as well? surprising still given the overall shape of bike. sounds like you are adjusting correctly. there has to a missing part somewhere or incorrect cable. the adjustment at the center of the basket is sensitive and covers alot. something is wrong you are out of adjustment that bad. missing a clutch disc?
 
suprize said:
at1mm difference, you apparently are missing a lot of clutch plate friction material....hence the excessive cable play regardless of the lever free play...its freeplay is way to close to the cyl and needs some new friction plates to move that lever further back and fit the clutch cable....
Click to expand...

I assume you are right and I'm wrong, so correct me if I'm wrong...

Wouldn't thicker plates just push the basket out more meaning I'll have to adjust push rod in more just to get back to where I am now?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top