2011 TE449 Running well with factory EFI system - finally

[Dangermouse449]

What would it take to put a carb on this bike?

Holley 750 double pumper! Lol

 

[huskylove]

Okay so quick update;

Bike rips and is way way way way more snappy. The auto tune is just starting to figure it all out and its getting more and more power every short ride!

That said, now she gets to be disassembled again so no extended test rides yet :\

 

[9880sts]

Okay so quick update;

Bike rips and is way way way way more snappy. The auto tune is just starting to figure it all out and its getting more and more power every short ride!

That said, now she gets to be disassembled again so no extended test rides yet :\

sometimes it needs a few Guinea Pigs to proof that some Shed Mechanics with a good technical understanding can fix a problem.

 

[huskylove]

I actually ended up sealing my spoke wheels to run tubeless. They have been good for 2 weeks. 1 20 minute ride and my front went flat. All the nipples are leaking...my fault trying to do things complicated. Same with my quick shifter spent 3 days trying to make it work then it still does not.

Sometimes you just gotta stick with the norm.

I actually did not notice much of any change in the mid to upper range, when on the throttle hard. But the bike is snappier and responds quicker. Also no stalling, my plan is to let auto tune work out the kinks, then I will lower the air bypass screw to get the idle rpm down and hopefully not have stalling issues like was factory.

By the way, the air bypass screw DOES affect your AFR at idle. As verified by my pc and auto tune. .5 turn in or out was enough to put the idle afr into the lean or rich.

 

[9880sts]

I actually ended up sealing my spoke wheels to run tubeless. They have been good for 2 weeks. 1 20 minute ride and my front went flat. All the nipples are leaking...my fault trying to do things complicated. Same with my quick shifter spent 3 days trying to make it work then it still does not.

Sometimes you just gotta stick with the norm.

I actually did not notice much of any change in the mid to upper range, when on the throttle hard. But the bike is snappier and responds quicker. Also no stalling, my plan is to let auto tune work out the kinks, then I will lower the air bypass screw to get the idle rpm down and hopefully not have stalling issues like was factory.

By the way, the air bypass screw DOES affect your AFR at idle. As verified by my pc and auto tune. .5 turn in or out was enough to put the idle afr into the lean or rich.

Why don't you run Mousse tubes.
I am using the Goldentyre mousses . Front is been in for 1800km. the back 700. only because i changed Tire size and with it the mousse. But the back is still in great Condition. I went on Pavement after a friends bike broke down. 55km wide open on the way back to camp. The tire was hot as hell , but Mousse still good. Now my friends changed all over the last few weeks.

 

[huskylove]

I have supermoto wheels, so they are quite wide. Without tubes they warmup MUCH faster, also I did not have tubes so figured might as well try it...a few times :P

No worky.

 

[Dangermouse449]

But the bike is snappier and responds quicker. Also no stalling, my plan is to let auto tune work out the kinks, then I will lower the air bypass screw to get the idle rpm down and hopefully not have stalling issues like was factory.

By the way, the air bypass screw DOES affect your AFR at idle. As verified by my pc and auto tune. .5 turn in or out was enough to put the idle afr into the lean or rich.

I suspected this was the case. I reckon the bike idles off an idle map based on the switching voltage of the TPS & not the MAP sensor.
If it were off the MAP sensor, fiddling with the by-pass screw would change the vaccum signal & send the ecu looking for a suitable map.
Running off the TPS, all it knows is 'I see 0.5v(ish) from the TPS, here is the idle fuel I've been told to add'!
So if you allow more air in via the by-pass screw, there's no extra fuel added in & it goes lean, less screw, less air, richer. All just theories atm.

I have a AFR kit here to get up to speed, I plan to check exactly that & some other readings when I have it set up. (It's in kit form, waiting for the build instructions to come... )

 

[Dangermouse449]

Ride report - Just had another 50km group ride with my riding buddies, bike is still awesome & not one flame-out again!!!

Loamy hill climbs, twisty forest single-track, creek crossings & roosting along open trails.

It's so refreshing to not worry about the engine/ecu & just ride for the fun of it - I'm in love with it again!

(I know, get a room right - Lol)

 

[Dangermouse449]

I have supermoto wheels, so they are quite wide. Without tubes they warmup MUCH faster, also I did not have tubes so figured might as well try it...a few times :P

No worky.

Have you seen the Tu-bliss setup?? Dunno if they work on Motard, but may be worth a look.
A couple of mates run them for dirt & love them.

http://nuetech.com/tubliss/

 

[9880sts]

I have supermoto wheels, so they are quite wide. Without tubes they warmup MUCH faster, also I did not have tubes so figured might as well try it...a few times :P

No worky.

You may look in to Trials bike sport. They run TUBELESS. there are several choices to seal the Rim's.

 

[9880sts]

Just had another 50km group ride with my riding buddies, bike is still awesome & not one flame-out again!!!

Loamy hill climbs, twisty forest single-track, creek crossings & roosting along open trails.

It's so refreshing to not worry about the engine/ecu & just ride for the fun of it - I'm in love with it again!

(I know, get a room right - Lol)

i am going tomorrow again....

 

[9880sts]

Disclaimer -

The following worked for my bike.
I am a mechanic, but I'm not a dealer, nor am I Husky trained.
I've gone from 5-10 flameouts per days ride to just ONE in the last 2 rides still with a factory ecu!

Edit - Only attempt these mods if you have tried the conventional fixes, Map3, TPS reset etc. and only if you are confidant in your skills working on these expensive electronics.

About my bike -

- 2011 TE449 bought new 08/2012.
- Supplied Akro slip-on & jumper plug fitted from new at the dealer.
- Everything else standard until dealer updated map to the AKRO racing exhaust map.

- Rode (rather than towed) my bike home from the dealer to put some easy Km's on it,
removed the huge number plate holder & mirrors & when to the local marked trail to run it in.
(The track has several big hills & some fast open trails.)

- The bike stalled several times & the idle stayed high a couple of times.
- Took the bike home & adjusted the idle screw, still ran the same.
- Took it to the (BMW) dealer, they 'made some adjustments' & said it was fine. (It still played up the same)
- I started to try things myself & make adjustments. Some for the better, some for the worse, over about 6 months.
- I tried all the 'resets', idle screw set at the magic no. of turns etc, no change.

- Just prior to the 12 month warranty expiring, I took it to another local dealer (Berg & Husky) for them to check it out & left it there for a couple of weeks.
I was told they reset the TPS adjustment, reflashed the ECU, swapped ECUs with another bike (which is still in it as the VIN no. on the sticker doesn't match my frame now) Replaced the spark plug, checked the valve clearances, cleaned the earth & terminals etc.

- It ran well for half of the first ride until I stalled it on compression & then had the 'hard to crank over' thing they do, lost the data from the trip meter & clock.
From then on, it returned to flame-outs & erratic idle.
- I replaced the battery with a Lithium one with 90 more cranking amps & the dash now keeps it's memory.
- Went through resets & idle settings again & again, no change.

- I had also noticed if the throttle was just cracked off idle, the revs increased, but it sounded laboured (fuelling not correct)
- I had also put a fair bit of thought into why it flames-out sometimes & not others.
I believe the Fly-By-Wire 2nd throttle doesn't open quick enough at times when you crack the manual throttle, so the ecu sees the throttle open, dumps in the fuel, the FBW plate is still partially closed so not enough air arrives & cough, flameout.

What can I do about the FBW throttle?

- My original plan was to get the ECU for a TC449 as it doesn't have the second throttle & modify the harness to suit - N.G., too hard.

- You can't remove the FBW throttle set-up. as the ECU 'looks' for the motor & 2nd TPS.
So I stripped the air-cleaner out of the bike & removed the FBW throttle plate & screws from the shaft.
As far as the ECU knows, it is still running the show, all it is doing is turning a shaft & making sure it is where it told it to be via the TPS
I still have control of the cable throttle, and the ecu sees the 1st TPS signals as normal. All good.

View attachment 39047

View attachment 39048

What about the hanging idle?

- Obviously the ecu is not capable of making any sort of decisions about idling!

I stripped the throttle cable cover off the throttle body, removed the cable cam from the shaft & removed the arm from the manual throttle section. (This is the arm that the FBW throttle lift & lowers to control idle) Now the ECU can turn the shaft all it wants & not idle the motor high & spit me off into the trees every second time I ride it I set the idle speed off the brass idle screw exactly how the TC is done, simple

I have left the brass spacer behind the cable cam & made a plastic guide for the throttle spring to run on (As the arm has a 'cup' for the spring built onto it)
I also took a measurement of the factory gap for the set screw(yellow paint in picture) in case I fell the need to refit it later.

View attachment 39049

And the dead spot off idle?

I decided to play with the TPS adjustment after finding other Keihin bikes are very picky about the idle output voltages (Most 0.45 -0.6)
It is pretty difficult to get at the pins on the TE449 to actually measure the voltage, so I decided to crack the TPS screw & move it just a bees-whisker in the direction of acceleration of the throttle shaft.
As I moved it slightly, the idle smoothed out & now transitions smoothly to cracked throttle.

Over-all, I'm stoked at the changes.

No more driving over the 'bars into that creek bank or log you just tried to pop the front wheel over when it flames out.
No more spearing off the outside of a corner after you expect 450cc engine-braking &
get 125 2-stroke engine braking instead.

And, I haven't bought an aftermarket ecu & had to tune it, fiddle with it and deal with extra wiring in a crowded frame. I ride all sorts of terrain, mud, beach, rain, creeks, dust, I didn't want non-factory wiring & plugs in that.

Hope this helps someone else, as I've mentioned at the start, it worked for my 2011 model.
It may not do anything for someone elses bike.

Just thought to attach this Throttle body body Calibration to this here.

After i removed the Butterfly and the Stud i had to go through the TPS calibration.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/updated-tps-efi-reset-449-511.28799/

 

[Mr Ford40]

Where would I get race map 3 , also a pvc was that from ZIP-TY still waiting for them to contact me about a full oil kit , 3 emails so far and no response yet.

 

[Mr Ford40]

i reckon you should call First Class Lilydale. They are pretty good with the Kymco Engines. They have done many repairs and tunes to other bikes. Just as i said earlier hier with the TE449 which wa used racing.

Might be the go the guys up here are not to switched on all they want to do is sell you a bike.

 

[9880sts]

Might be the go the guys up here are not to switched on all they want to do is sell you a bike.

as i said Earlier... call http://firstclassmotorcycles.com.au/

They will do it.
Here in Australia its called a Akropovic Setting.

 

[huskyboy410]

Well here is my input... I have had both issues on my 511 ...The run on which is a real pain into corners ( proven by my YouTube clips) lol... and the flat spot which always seems to happen in 3rd 0.o

so today i performed the full mod and I must say the first thing I noticed was the throttle response...WOW!!!

Second thing is the idle return to base after taking the throttle cam link off was another wow!!!

Bike is ready for a test tmrw and I will post the results.
If it don't work I'm going back to my good old single cam te410
Ohh yeh i also did a air box mod here are some pics.

 

[huskyboy410]

 

[huskyboy410]

 

[huskyboy410]

 

[huskyboy410]