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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
2011 TE449 Running well with factory EFI system - finally
- Thread starter Dangermouse449
- Start date
Boogie
Husqvarna
Pro Class
These are stronger around the edges and have a good seal... Can also eat lots of desert dust and still breath due to the increased surface area
http://funnelwebfilter.com.au/
Boogie
Husqvarna
Pro Class
and tastes best with sticky oil icing
Boogie
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Ah sorry, I'm not too familiar with the 449/511. I have one of those remap, re-muffler and GO bikes
310Rrrrr
Mr Ford40
Husqvarna
A Class
Nothing wrong with that mate. As long as you enjoy you bike thats all that matters.
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/husqvarna-week-end-get-together.41613/ check this out.
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/husqvarna-week-end-get-together.41613/ check this out.
bhuizer
Husqvarna
A Class
Just wanted to chime in after some experiences this weekend.
My bike is a '13 TE449, ECU Map II (locked), FMF PC4, PCV, Stock Airbox, EarthX battery. I was having significant flame out issues and hard starts before adding the PCV. I installed the FMF and Power Commander a week or two ago and finally put a lot of miles on the bike this weekend. We did 350+ miles worth of riding Saturday and Sunday and I did not have one flame-out. I'm running the Zipty Factory Map with a little fuel added from the 1500-2500 rpm range. The bike will tractor up hills in first at idle, and pulls very hard throughout the rpm range. The hot starting was greatly improved, the bike still likes just a touch of throttle on hot starts but I did not have any problems all weekend.
When I first installed the FMF PC4 without tweaking the Power Commander Settings, the bike would have been nearly un-ridable. On the first ride I took it flamed out twice and I nearly didn't get it re-started. Went back to the garage, adjusted idle, added some fuel in the lower RPM range, and it was like a new bike. I understand that removing the butterfly is a free mod, but I'm not sure if that alone would have been enough to make it run right with the FMF without adding the PCV.
I am interested in seeing what kind of difference removing the butterfly makes, and I will probably try it just for the heck of it. The bike has plenty of bark already though, it will pull the front wheel right off of idle without effort in both 1st and 2nd gear. So i have zero complaints about throttle response. I'm not saying that removing the butterfly wont improve the bike further, but the PCV is an awesome tool and well worth the 290 bucks and does take care of some of the issues that many are complaining about without changing anything with the EFI. I am interested to see what kind of difference removing the butterfly makes with engine braking, but it seems ok for me at the moment.
My bike is a '13 TE449, ECU Map II (locked), FMF PC4, PCV, Stock Airbox, EarthX battery. I was having significant flame out issues and hard starts before adding the PCV. I installed the FMF and Power Commander a week or two ago and finally put a lot of miles on the bike this weekend. We did 350+ miles worth of riding Saturday and Sunday and I did not have one flame-out. I'm running the Zipty Factory Map with a little fuel added from the 1500-2500 rpm range. The bike will tractor up hills in first at idle, and pulls very hard throughout the rpm range. The hot starting was greatly improved, the bike still likes just a touch of throttle on hot starts but I did not have any problems all weekend.
When I first installed the FMF PC4 without tweaking the Power Commander Settings, the bike would have been nearly un-ridable. On the first ride I took it flamed out twice and I nearly didn't get it re-started. Went back to the garage, adjusted idle, added some fuel in the lower RPM range, and it was like a new bike. I understand that removing the butterfly is a free mod, but I'm not sure if that alone would have been enough to make it run right with the FMF without adding the PCV.
I am interested in seeing what kind of difference removing the butterfly makes, and I will probably try it just for the heck of it. The bike has plenty of bark already though, it will pull the front wheel right off of idle without effort in both 1st and 2nd gear. So i have zero complaints about throttle response. I'm not saying that removing the butterfly wont improve the bike further, but the PCV is an awesome tool and well worth the 290 bucks and does take care of some of the issues that many are complaining about without changing anything with the EFI. I am interested to see what kind of difference removing the butterfly makes with engine braking, but it seems ok for me at the moment.
Great input, thanks. I have no doubt the PCV made a huge difference, these bikes run lean. The BF might have made your situation worse. With the PCV you could take the BF out and and then dial the fuel ratio to perfection and probably gain some bottom end snap. But as your bike runs very much to your satisfaction now it might not make sense to do. Great to have a forum with a lot of info and options. My bike has been better and better with every mod and this forum has helped me loads to sort out a a bike I already loved. Thats what it is all about. Everyone posting their experiences and we can pick and choose what makes sense for us and what ones we choose to try.
Luke87-SMR
Husqvarna
B Class
just a question..
how many hp could have a stock 511?
and how many hp could have a 551 with race map 3 and a slip on?
anybody have some dyno test?
how many hp could have a stock 511?
and how many hp could have a 551 with race map 3 and a slip on?
anybody have some dyno test?
JD jetting had my bike on their dyno. Made about 32 stock, 43ish with the open muffler and JD tuner. Since then I have done map3 and the BF removal and it feels noticeably stronger. My bike has no issues hanging with a CRF450 but is much smoother and EZer to ride.
bigmo
Husqvarna
AA Class
I have been on No Toil for quite a few years now and would never consider going back. For those that are (or are open to the idea) No Toil makes ready to use filters that are really quite nice for only $14! I bought three and see these lasting the life of the bike.
I take the old ones straight from the bike, toss them in the washer on the 12 minute rapid cycle with a scoop of Oxy Clean and they come out looking BRAND new. A few minutes with a gallon zip lock and they are all ready for action again.
It took me a while to get on the train, but I could not be more pleased and the cost is staggeringly low.
I take the old ones straight from the bike, toss them in the washer on the 12 minute rapid cycle with a scoop of Oxy Clean and they come out looking BRAND new. A few minutes with a gallon zip lock and they are all ready for action again.
It took me a while to get on the train, but I could not be more pleased and the cost is staggeringly low.
I run no toil filters too. I do mine in a bucket with warm water the the notoil cleaner. swish it around a few times, spotless. wring it out, hose off with garden hose, hang to dry done. Love it.
BTW the notoil cleaner as make non notoil filters separate so use their filters.
BTW the notoil cleaner as make non notoil filters separate so use their filters.
Cosmokenney
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Freeze it. I just did my steel pipe and it worked great. All I did was fill it up with water so the dent, and then some, was covered. No need to wrap with towels or to try to seal it with caps or anything like that. Place it in your freezer with the open ends as upright as possible (buy your wife some flowers before you do, 'cause you're going to need to make some room). The ends where the water stops (where the water is exposed to air) will freeze first, thus making a cap. Then the unfrozen water will start to expand and eventually freeze. If the dent is real big you might need to thaw and freeze again. I didn't and was amazed at how much it can push out in one go.
I've seen posts in other forums about freezing TI. It should work, and I can't imagine it would hurt anything to try.
Cosmokenney
Husqvarna
Pro Class
I have UNI filters on all three of my bikes. They seem to breath better and I like their spray-on oil cans, makes it much easier to get a nice thin layer on the filter. The oil washes right out with simple green. The only thing with the UNI that is a minus for the 449/511 is that it doesn't have a hard edge. The foam gets trapped in a funny position under the retainer. That requires you to pull the foam into place, which kind of seems like it'll shorten the life span a little.
So,
I think I have found the reason for the butterfly and an issue with the mod.
I installed a pull only quick turn throttle yesterday on my 511 supermoto. I can now open the throttle so quickly at a low rpm that I can get a flameout/crack from the intake.
This is running lean.
I have the auto tuner and while looking at the AF ratio in neutral it may be going lean but, no amount of fuel I can add seems to be fixing it. Also need more tips on the Accel pump (tinken?) where I should have it set as that isn't curing it either. Before the quick turn it was a non issue.
Now lets say I want to jump a log or speed bump at near idle rpm in 2nd gear and I whack the throttle open without the clutch the bike will crackle very loud pop from the intake but STAY running?!? No amount of fuel seems to fix this! If you are slower when opening the throttle it does not do this. ALSO! nobody would really be doing that situation. You can use the clutch to remove load off the motor, or you can just drop a gear. BUT if you are putzing around near idle and want to jump a speed bump and hit the throttle super fast it does this weird crackle pop thing.
Also I am not running a airbox only factory velocity stack and a UNI POD filter. So my bike gets as much air as is possible. With an airbox it may not be able to pull that much air into the throttle body quickly?
I think I have found the reason for the butterfly and an issue with the mod.
I installed a pull only quick turn throttle yesterday on my 511 supermoto. I can now open the throttle so quickly at a low rpm that I can get a flameout/crack from the intake.
This is running lean.
I have the auto tuner and while looking at the AF ratio in neutral it may be going lean but, no amount of fuel I can add seems to be fixing it. Also need more tips on the Accel pump (tinken?) where I should have it set as that isn't curing it either. Before the quick turn it was a non issue.
Now lets say I want to jump a log or speed bump at near idle rpm in 2nd gear and I whack the throttle open without the clutch the bike will crackle very loud pop from the intake but STAY running?!? No amount of fuel seems to fix this! If you are slower when opening the throttle it does not do this. ALSO! nobody would really be doing that situation. You can use the clutch to remove load off the motor, or you can just drop a gear. BUT if you are putzing around near idle and want to jump a speed bump and hit the throttle super fast it does this weird crackle pop thing.
Also I am not running a airbox only factory velocity stack and a UNI POD filter. So my bike gets as much air as is possible. With an airbox it may not be able to pull that much air into the throttle body quickly?
Should be able to tune that out. Very few EFI bikes including all modern EFI MX bikes do not have a secondary BF. I don't believe any of the KTMs have it. The 350 KTM unit I saw for sure did not. I only have 74 miles of fast Dez testing but did not experience this at all on my bike. Tinken has a highly modified bike so his results are going to be different.
If it introduces issues you don't like 2 screws and your back to stock.
As I said from the get go I personally was not recommending this BF removal just posting my experiences on my bike which were positive and I'll not be reinstalling mine.
If it introduces issues you don't like 2 screws and your back to stock.
As I said from the get go I personally was not recommending this BF removal just posting my experiences on my bike which were positive and I'll not be reinstalling mine.Kelly,
Most EFI bikes do not have 46mm huge throttle bodies. That is HUGE for a 470cc motor that makes a whopping 40hp. My old aircooled xr600r was 644cc revved only to 10k rpm, and made 55 to the wheels with a 41mm carb.
It is a non issue. But if you whack the throttle open when putting along in 2nd gear idle, lets say to jump a speed bump or takeoff, it will cough/pop like a flameout. If you slowly open the throttle it will pickup to 3krpm fast and you will NEVER notice the issue. Now with a quick turn throttle it happens more often. It is there. And no amount of fuel seems to fix it to the point where I have soot on the tip of the fmf. I have a open airfilter so that is likely making it noticeable.
THAT SAID, WHO THE HELL IDLES IN SECOND GEAR AND RAPES THE THROTTLE OPEN WITHOUT USING THE CLUTCH OR ANYTHING? NOBODY!
BUT, I think it merits more investigation and I really think I understand why when engineering the bike they thought it to be "necessary".
Most EFI bikes do not have 46mm huge throttle bodies. That is HUGE for a 470cc motor that makes a whopping 40hp. My old aircooled xr600r was 644cc revved only to 10k rpm, and made 55 to the wheels with a 41mm carb.
It is a non issue. But if you whack the throttle open when putting along in 2nd gear idle, lets say to jump a speed bump or takeoff, it will cough/pop like a flameout. If you slowly open the throttle it will pickup to 3krpm fast and you will NEVER notice the issue. Now with a quick turn throttle it happens more often. It is there. And no amount of fuel seems to fix it to the point where I have soot on the tip of the fmf. I have a open airfilter so that is likely making it noticeable.
THAT SAID, WHO THE HELL IDLES IN SECOND GEAR AND RAPES THE THROTTLE OPEN WITHOUT USING THE CLUTCH OR ANYTHING? NOBODY!
BUT, I think it merits more investigation and I really think I understand why when engineering the bike they thought it to be "necessary".
No, no. If this thing back fires, you and DM are fixing it. You promote, you fix
Said in my very first report that I was not recommending this just posting my results. Done talking about it.