• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2013 TE449 Power up?

ScottyR

Husqvarna
AA Class
OK. I haven't been following the whole TE449/511 thing for the last couple of years, but I have decided I am going to pick up a 13 TE449 or 511 so I can have a legit legal 4 stroke to TRAIL RIDE with. I can buy a brand new TE for the same price as a 3yr old used KTM EXC. It wont see a race track but I want it to run right nonetheless.

What do I need to do to get this bike running the way it is supposed to? I have access to an updated HST tool. Race Map 3 is the ideal map? What about the 02 sensor plug? There has been a lot of confusion on whether to unplug it and/or not put a plug in the wiring harness. I have been told the race map 3 essentially shuts off the o2 sensor anyhow so do I really need to do any thing with it?

I am going to put an FMF power core muffler with quiet insert. I am not going to worry about a power bomb header.

Anything else I am forgetting?

Thanks in advance
Scotty
 
2012 TE511 here. I have the quietcore 4 with quiet insert, power up plug, and open exhaust map.
My bike rips. I was going to do the power commander and TC airbox, but after the open exhaust map,
I am satisfied for now. Also did the seat concepts seat, sicass turn signals and took off all the crap on back
fender, and mounted a stainless plate for license plate. I went with Dunlap 606's, not sure of the best tire
For the bike. Sky's the limit on modifications, but I think other than the uptite skidplate I am waiting on,
I will take my time with further mods. Don't know if 13's come with key switch, but sicass sells those too,
If you run to the store. Easy install and has caused no problems...
Good luck with your new dirtbike, most important to grease everything (steering head, rear shock lineage etc, also
Dielectric grease on connectors, change oil REALLY often, (only holds a quart)
 
Race map set #3 really makes the TE and TXC's run the way they were intended to regardless of the exhaust you have mounted. Even better than the TC's imo. If you run map#1 with the new set, the O2 sensor still functions with better mpg's, map 2 is full race. I have a handlebar switch that toggles between the two.
Other items might include key switch, bags or you might want to look into purchasing some double take mirrors if you intend to mix mirrors with trail riding.
 
There's one set of maps on the ECU (commonly referred to as Std and Race map 2), to get the BMW #3 map you need to get a dealer to flash the ECU which will replace the std/R2 maps.
 
Just to clarify, there is only map 1&2. There are 3 sets of map 1&2. Set 1 comes installed from the factory and is very lean due to emission standards. Set two is a richer version of set 1. Set 3 is the maps I have been loading. These maps are tuned for racing exhausts with racing headers. They also work great with stock exhausts.
 
So Tinken is the Set 3 map a lot better than map 2 (I assume this is the Race Map2) though none the wiser about the maps etc.
 
So there are three sets of two mappings?? How confusing for a bike to run the way it suppose to ... Each set has map1 and a map2 - the later being oriented for racing. And there are two other sets of mappings?! Good lord, I'd almost prefer working on a carbed bike!
 
It's not really that complicated. I loaded set 3 and I have a switch on my handlebars so I can toggle between 1&2 like that which is on the TC's.
 
The Powercommander 5 is the best setup. With it, you get map 1&2, but you get to fine tune each yourself or with Autotune. In each map, you may have a different map for each gear say 1 through 6. And you can also work with electronic timing settings. You can really customize your bike to do everything you wish. The rotary switch available with the new Husky ecu's would open up huge possibilities on the Powercommander.
 
It's not really that complicated. I loaded set 3 and I have a switch on my handlebars so I can toggle between 1&2 like that which is on the TC's.

Tell that to the average rider: "come back and we'll load up map 2 on set 1" rider- "Sure" ...

figure out it doesn't quite run well enough "come back and we'll load up map 2 on set 2" rider- "OK..."

rider does another mod "come back and we'll load up map 2 on SET 3" rider "fakjdfsl;aja"

I know it may not sound complicated. But seems a lot of tinkering , and depending on rider/shop - more money. That can be tedious, especially if someone doesn't live 5 minutes from the nearest Husky dealership. Just sayin' hope it improves over time.. and yah you can get a Power Commander or JD Tuner (I have the tuner) but that's another few hundred. Try telling that to your wife or loved one after plunking down 8g's.
 
Tell that to the average rider: "come back and we'll load up map 2 on set 1" rider- "Sure" ...

figure out it doesn't quite run well enough "come back and we'll load up map 2 on set 2" rider- "OK..."

rider does another mod "come back and we'll load up map 2 on SET 3" rider "fakjdfsl;aja"

I know it may not sound complicated. But seems a lot of tinkering , and depending on rider/shop - more money. That can be tedious, especially if someone doesn't live 5 minutes from the nearest Husky dealership. Just sayin' hope it improves over time.. and yah you can get a Power Commander or JD Tuner (I have the tuner) but that's another few hundred. Try telling that to your wife or loved one after plunking down 8g's.

The average rider doesn't need any add-on electronic gizmos. The average rider can place their ecu in a padded shipping container and ship it to a dealer able to load the map of choice. If this is too complicated, then maybe something other than an Italian race platform should be considered.
 
It is simple. Took bike to dealer, rolled it in to work area, 15min. later new map and even better running bike for
Less than a set of jets for a carb. No tinkering. If you mail it in, one twist to remove seat, couple of screws,
Unplug ECU, mail it. Very easy for the benefit. And since the bike was 2 grand less than any comparable bike
In its class, it almost free..yay!
 
Well there's been plenty of complaints about bikes not running right on these forums and how people keep having to tinker with the fuel injection and bringing it back to the shop.. There are plenty of average joes who ride bikes hard but expect it to run the way a dirt bike should off showroom floor. I understand there's fans on this site, but it's good to point out the faults and not be completely obvlivious to some of the downfalls.

I know because of California strict emissions laws, they have to do it. But why not sell a 'California' only model then sell the rest uncorked straight off show room floor acting as a real dirt bike should.

Just speaking from experience. I have a 2010 TE 250 - maybe later models are better. But it was terrible running off show room floor. Uncorked and had them remap (3 hour drive score). It still had a pretty nasty bog down low that would be really difficult to handle if hill climbing or going through gnarley stuff. So I was told to get a JD Tuner - another $350 poof. And to be honest.. it still bogs a little when I rev quick --- it's better but definitely not like any carbed bike I've had (honda or yama). I've tried all different settings, recommended settings, user settings, etc. for it and still haven't found a setting that delivers smooth punches at all times. After a year or so - I've got it good but still occasional blips in response during fast acceleration. Now I've been told to get a 12 port injector and updated ECU.. which probably is another hundro or few... plus installation.
 
Your right about the EPA, go over to ADV rider, thumper talk, or join a local club, and ALL the manufacturers have these
Problems. If they are street lega it's worse. My bike actually ran great, I am just always looking to make it better.
My bike has a pipe(could have defatted)a jumper that came with the bike and 40.00 for a map...
That's less than having the grey wire issue, and trying to load a YZ map, or my DRZ that pops like crazy on decel
Is needing a 70.00 dollar jet kit, pipe, airbox mod etc....the WR250R guys are playing with programming,
I think the fixes on the 511 is extremely simple and inexpensive compared.
I have a great dealer and bike ran fine, and they told me what to do, I have never needed to fiddle with the bike
I just do, its my toy..
 
H
Your right about the EPA, go over to ADV rider, thumper talk, or join a local club, and ALL the manufacturers have these
Problems. If they are street lega it's worse. My bike actually ran great, I am just always looking to make it better.
My bike has a pipe(could have defatted)a jumper that came with the bike and 40.00 for a map...
That's less than having the grey wire issue, and trying to load a YZ map, or my DRZ that pops like crazy on decel
Is needing a 70.00 dollar jet kit, pipe, airbox mod etc....the WR250R guys are playing with programming,
I think the fixes on the 511 is extremely simple and inexpensive compared.
I have a great dealer and bike ran fine, and they told me what to do, I have never needed to fiddle with the bike
I just do, its my toy..

My WR450 - unattached gray wire and opened up airbox. I could've run it like that with plenty power (50 hp) but recarbed to be on safer side with JD kit and was set. $10 and about an hours work. Comparatively speaking to my TE250, was much easier and didn't 'require' to spend more then $10 just to have it run like a dirt bike..

Granted - I've heard the TE lineup is getting better and half my issues are not part of the 449/511 powerup (12 port injector / ecu??) fanboys will be fanboys, I love my Yamaha.. I love my TE250. I just still can't get my TE 250 to run exactly as I was hoping even with the JD Tuner -- now it's 'oh get the power commander... get the 12 port injector.. and reflash ecu.. da la da da'... Once it's all said and done, my TE 250 is one of the best 250 bikes out there.. but getting to that point isn't exactly smooth sails, and quite costly, at least on the 2010 model.

Cheers. Sorry for going off topic a bit but my te250 was a huge headache and a money pit to get it to run like most dirt bikes.
 
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