• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2014 FE 511 Project Pics

WLDracing_3G said:
You have 4 options that I know of for dialing in your EFI.

1. Power up Plug...Add a jumper to the power up plug to give you more power than stock. (ECU Map 2) Add a wire to close the circuit.
2. ECU Flashed by ZipTy this gives you a performance/race mapping. (Wake up the Beast) (ECU Map 3) $39.00
3. Combination of Map 2 and Map 3 by adding a switch to the power up plug. This will allow you to switch from map 2 to map 3. (Must stop, turn off the engine, then switch to alternate map then start engine) Correct me if I am wrong!
Map 2: Street Mode/Off road: I use for cruising on the street or highway, better gas mileage with this setting.
Map 3: Competition mode, single track, hill climbing, Glen Helen GP's. As I said this will be the setting for all of my riding off road.
4. Now there is the Power Commander V which is a computer that you can completely dial in your fuel and ignition setting which in turn will give you more horsepower to the rear wheel, the cost is.. $389.00 at ZipTy. I have not installed this on my bike but I have read the power gains are awesome, and ZipTy has preloaded Husqvarna Factory Team Racing Maps.
Click to expand...


#3 sort of not right (close). The maps loaded or flashed si a "set" of maps. Your switch will toggle between the "set" of toggled maps.

Also, don't forget the JD Tuner - that is similar (in some ways to the PCV) but breaks the "digital jetting" back into something that we are more familiar with ie pilot, needle and main. I know several folks that run the JD on Keihin EFI bikes and really like it. With some fine tunign they are very happy.

That being said, all I did is have Map Set 3 loaded by my local dealer (they referred to it as "BMW Race Set #3" - not sure if that is the proper verbiage) and cannot imagine running anything else. The bike is flawless. I guess fuel consumption could be an issue if you were trying to squeeze > 80 miles out of a tank - then another map would be nice.
 
I wanted to show you earlier what I did with that black canister (Black Coffee maker on the left side of engine)

Black Canister
3 hoses

The bottom hose is routed by the engine guard and is a overflow. Remove this hose.
Top front hose is routed around to the fuel tank. Remove this hose from the canister and route to the back and thru to the bottom of the engine. This is an overflow for the fuel tank
Top rear hose goes to the left side of the Cylinder head. Remove this hose put all removed parts in a box, and save it for a rainy day. Cap the nipple with a vacuum cap and wire. (purchase at Autozone for $2.) See PicP1360865.JPG
 
An item I always used when racing motocross was the fork air bleeders. Your forks through compression and rebound will build up air pressure and will affect how your forks works. These are not air forks so you don't want air in them.

Solution
Fork Air Bleeders. Just put your bike on a stand where there is no weight on your fork (if you weight the fork oil will come out,,,you do not want that), press the button and this will release the air. $20

.P1360864.JPG
 
#3 sort of not right (close). The maps loaded or flashed si a "set" of maps. Your switch will toggle between the "set" of toggled maps.

Also, don't forget the JD Tuner - that is similar (in some ways to the PCV) but breaks the "digital jetting" back into something that we are more familiar with ie pilot, needle and main. I know several folks that run the JD on Keihin EFI bikes and really like it. With some fine tunign they are very happy.

That being said, all I did is have Map Set 3 loaded by my local dealer (they referred to it as "BMW Race Set #3" - not sure if that is the proper verbiage) and cannot imagine running anything else. The bike is flawless. I guess fuel consumption could be an issue if you were trying to squeeze > 80 miles out of a tank - then another map would be nice.
Click to expand...



Thanks for clearing up the map issue. Heck I am just learning myself. And thanks for your knowledge.
 
The JD tuner is obsolete for 449/511s which will accept map #3. The pcv is the best because of the precise fuel tuning, plus the ignition map. Additional maps may be installed and switched on the fly making this an ultimate solution.
 
I found a great solution for keeping it somewhat street legal with a full adjustable mirror. This is the Double Take Mirror. The great thing is it integrates with the existing mirror perch, and when you hit the trails you can completely fold it away or quickly remove with no tools.

View: http://youtu.be/P-6fLlW54Y8

P1360880.JPG
 
Project is almost complete.

I will be adding ZipTy's Oil Circulation application as soon as it is available.

After my first oil change, I changed to a PC Racing Stainless Steel Oil Filter model PC167 and the Magnet
See this write up from Tinken: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/oil-filters-for-the-449-511s.29284/

I will be adding ZipTy's XF + Waterless Racing Coolant as soon as it is available.

That is about it for now. I will be testing some Kenda Parker DT's soon and will submit my thoughts on the performance of these tires.

Oh I forgot one of the most important things is the suspension. I will be having my suspension done this week by Shock Therapy (714-724-9005). I have been with Shock Therapy as a sponsored rider since 2009. Steve Piattoni is the Owner, Racer, Tester and has a crew of MXVets that race, test, ride and just shred. I have had a few companies (Not ZipTy) that just did not give the track side support needed when tuning your suspension. Shock Therapy assisted me at the track during practice and racing to dial in my YZ450F. They helped me in finishing 3rd overall for 2012 with Over the Hill Gang VET MX Racing Club.

I am not trying to take away from ZIP Ty Suspension Service, just offering my experiences and Suspension options.

P1360875.JPG .
P1360846.JPG
 
WLDracing_3G said:
Cap the nipple with a vacuum cap and wire. (purchase at Autozone for $2.) See PicView attachment 39021
Click to expand...
You can remove that brass fitting and replace it with a 8mm bolt (not sure on size exactly). Eventually that rubber cap will crack and lean you out.

Also if you haven't taken a look already, check out our brake pedal tip. You will want to add a brake snake as well, these brakes tend to bend outward on slide outs.

Flip your capacitor over, this will allow it to cool better and save you some headaches down the road. Remove the spark coil ground wire from the cylinder head and place it on the frame above. Add an additional ground from your battery to your subframe.

After you get your suspension re-valved, push your forks all the way down in the triple clamps and set your race sag to 100mm for general riding. If you plan to ride in the sand here in SoCal/Lucerne/palmsprings, etc., plan on sag settings as low as 120mm and possible -4mm shortening of the rear shock.
 
Wow, that was going to be my next question "How much Race Sag on this 511"....Thanks very Much Tinken ....I will do these mods. And thanks for getting me that Shifter Tip so fast.
ZIPTY is the Greatest !!! :applause:
 
Hey guys looking for a wider shifter TIP and or a whole shifter lever assembly for a TE 511. I have searched and found no aftermarket levers...
Any help would be appreciated.
 
Capacitor Flip

Another tip if you are going to race or ride hard is flipping your capacitor . The capacitor as it is installed is very close to the motor and does not get that much ventilation therefore will overheat and the affect will be pour engine performace (Round rubber coated cylinder mounted on the back of the engine just in front of the rear shock.

Solution:
See this for move tips : http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/449-511-ignition-ground.28115/#post-253500

This task was a bit of a pain and involved rerouting wires.

The Best approach in doing this I found, was when you flip the capacitor you will find the capacitor wires will be on the right side of the bike and wires will be tangled, I found to do this with no tangles you should reroute (ground wire, capacitor wire, brake sensor wire.) Read below:

1. Remove the rear Shock ( I had to anyway to get my suspension done)
2. Loosen (not remove) the capacitor bracket
3. Remove the capacitor from rubber mount, will easily slide out of rubber mount
Note: The wires may be intertwined so removing the wires from the plugs will help in rerouting for a clean race to its destination.
4. Cut the two zipty that hold the ground, brake sensor, and capacitor wire.
5. Remove the screw for the ground and reroute to the right side of the frame, then reattach screw to engine.
6. Unplug both brake sensor, and capacitor plugs and reroute wires to the right side of frame, plug wires back into plug.
7. You will see that the wires fit nicely on the right side of frame.
8. Tighten capacitor mount.
9. Zip Ty the wires to the frame
10. Reinstall the shock.

P1360890.JPG

P1360886.JPG

Grounding to the engine alone is not a good practice because of the affects of vibration to connections. I reroute the ground from the spark plug to the frame.

P1360894.JPG

I also ran another ground from the battery (negative) to the subframe.

P1360885.JPG
 
Tinken said:
The JD tuner is obsolete for 449/511s which will accept map #3.
Click to expand...

As you know I have map3 and still run the JD tuner. I feel it actually works better with the JD. With the JD set to do nothing it is still a tad lean on my bike but bump the JD up slightly and no stalling at all and more roll on power. I like using both. For a $40 remap the map3 is awesome. The JD was already on my bike and makes map3 awesomer. This setup with the MME clutch lever transformed my bike for single track work.
 
Yes, but you already had the JD tuner. I wouldn't buy a JD just to tune map3, I would buy a pcv and really make big changes to both the fuel and the ignition timing.
 
Once you put that pipe on bro you won't ever go back, wakes it up big time...I ran mine for a bit with jumper and pipe only then did map 3. Whole new bike with pipe map 3 and jumper. It will run a little lean with just pipe, map 3 gave it it's top end back after pipe....then flame outs began, tps reset adjusted screw and alls good again. I'm like you I didn't want to do any tuners, mine runs great without one. I'm loving the Mobil 1 0w40, just put it in my zx10 too, it's going in my jeep next oil change also.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top