• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

83 CR500, here begineth the lesson

Wildebeest90210 said:
I will make one up but thought as its still not complete I drilled a bit of angle to bolt on and used a mag base DTI straight up. I wondered if the plug being at an angle wether that would give a very slightly inaccurate measurement? A bit complicated maths for me.
Click to expand...

I'm sure the the 2mm before TDC is to take out the effect of the plug being offset.
 
Sunrise over the mancave reveals a new brake torque arm to be experimented with. The wife may think now summers coming she might get the conservertory back. I think not....

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New NOS chain guide. Can you not see it? On the seat there.. gratuitous intermarque thread hijack!!!
Been pissing some ramblers off today, nice weather for giving them a chance to comment on the condition of the tread on my front tyre as it passes at head height...

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Bengt Husky said:
I'm sure the the 2mm before TDC is to take out the effect of the plug being offset.
Click to expand...
The 2mm is a direct non-offset dimension . Any angular placement will require trig calaculation to correct the actual placement of the 2mm BTDC. So when I setup the replacement flywheel on my Cota 349 I used the sparkplug port that was true perpendicular to the head plane. Because of the high dome in the head I had to extend the indicator needle to reach the piston at least 4mm BTDC. I had choices of readings to use 1.5mm was standard and 2,5mm was recommended to soften the burstiness of the powerband, I deeply scribed reference marks on the flywheel labeled for the setting and a mark on the cranckcase to serve as a pointer. That eliminates the need for using the indicator for further timing adjustments
 
jimspac said:
The 2mm is a direct non-offset dimension . Any angular placement will require trig calaculation to correct the actual placement of the 2mm BTDC. So when I setup the replacement flywheel on my Cota 349 I used the sparkplug port that was true perpendicular to the head plane. Because of the high dome in the head I had to extend the indicator needle to reach the piston at least 4mm BTDC. I had choices of readings to use 1.5mm was standard and 2,5mm was recommended to soften the burstiness of the powerband, I deeply scribed reference marks on the flywheel labeled for the setting and a mark on the cranckcase to serve as a pointer. That eliminates the need for using the indicator for further timing adjustments
Click to expand...
Nice work. I used to use a timing disc in degrees for 2 strokes so I might get hold of one and measure what I've got now at 2mm BTDC. Not sure that wil help working out what 1.8mm or 2.2mm will be in degrees (again, maths deficient) and the head is all lapped and torqued now. I don't think husky quoted timing in degrees for my motor ? Lets hope the 2mm is ok.
 
As regards your 6 bolt clutch..
i have been through the exercise of looking at later model clutches for my 510 84. I think youll find (hope im wrong..)
the later clutches have one less tooth on the kick gear at the back off the clutch which engages the idler (which is a tooth bigger) and thus the idler gear location is different on the cases . this allows faster kickover (great!) but unless you can change the crank cases (LC type) or left half crank case you are in trouble or relocate the hole for the idler gear shaft....
the 510 84 has a 5 bolt clutch, but also changes to a 6 bolt type (LC motor). the smaller kick gear required a change from a needle roller bearing set up to smaller dia. brass bush in the centre of the clutch. Hence it rang a bell on your post to surprize... good luck!!!

I think the parts are the same whether 2 or 4 stroke.
 
SA63 said:
As regards your 6 bolt clutch..
i have been through the exercise of looking at later model clutches for my 510 84. I think youll find (hope im wrong..)
the later clutches have one less tooth on the kick gear at the back off the clutch which engages the idler (which is a tooth bigger) and thus the idler gear location is different on the cases . this allows faster kickover (great!) but unless you can change the crank cases (LC type) or left half crank case you are in trouble or relocate the hole for the idler gear shaft....
the 510 84 has a 5 bolt clutch, but also changes to a 6 bolt type (LC motor). the smaller kick gear required a change from a needle roller bearing set up to smaller dia. brass bush in the centre of the clutch. Hence it rang a bell on your post to surprize... good luck!!!

I think the parts are the same whether 2 or 4 stroke.
Click to expand...
All the gears fit and work. I did rebush the kickstart but the gears were already sorted. This is the new case, a late 4T case. I don't like it but look at the clearance on that clutch! I have a thread on the main page to find out what its made from and I'll try to machine the clutch cover to try to 'date' it a bit. Hope to vapour blast both but may paint. Maybe it will grow on me.


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The lower case looks like an HVA-Factory product. In which case that would probably be LM4, weldable. The top one, if it's a late case, then probably an alloy of some grade (I have no idea what). I doubt if it is Mag.
 
oh thats good..!! Did you change the clutch/gear shaft as well? Again im refering to 4stroke - and the earlier shafts held the clutch basket on with a circlip and the later ones were a threaded type. I think the clutches are a little sub par (or require regular attention) on the open bikes so a worthy upgrade!!

Actually I can see the circlip on second look.. im guessing only the 4 stroke got the revised kick ratios then..maybe it is possible to graft a 2 stroke clutch onto the 4 stroke.

mag is always darker than al. and if you are machining or drilling is a differnt texture, which is hard to put into words, because al. has so many variants too. but its always comes of in small chunks (like al weld) never get curls. not that helps you with your complete case!

A mate of mine has that late clutch case on his 84 4 stroke and i think he had to use a 610 kick start as well, some problem with the earlier one, not 100 %sure though.
 
SA63 said:
oh thats good..!! Did you change the clutch/gear shaft as well? Again im refering to 4stroke - and the earlier shafts held the clutch basket on with a circlip and the later ones were a threaded type. I think the clutches are a little sub par (or require regular attention) on the open bikes so a worthy upgrade!!

Actually I can see the circlip on second look.. im guessing only the 4 stroke got the revised kick ratios then..maybe it is possible to graft a 2 stroke clutch onto the 4 stroke.

mag is always darker than al. and if you are machining or drilling is a differnt texture, which is hard to put into words, because al. has so many variants too. but its always comes of in small chunks (like al weld) never get curls. not that helps you with your complete case!

A mate of mine has that late clutch case on his 84 4 stroke and i think he had to use a 610 kick start as well, some problem with the earlier one, not 100 %sure though.
Click to expand...
Yes it's a circlip. I had to make up a new spacer washer to eliminate a load of play.

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I machined the 1/2 crank case to get the bush I made in and it was very different from machining ally. Lots of speed and no coolant, it is different.

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I do though have to take 0.35mm off the kickstart stub in the case so may get some idea? Hoping someone here will just know.
 
by the look of at that ktm there's an inner hooligan in you just waiting to cut loose on the husky... probably will need all the clutch you can give it...
 
Got tomorrow off work to get rolling. Just looked at the rear tyre and found the tyre guy has used his initiative in tyre choice and fitted a 150 instead of 140 like I asked. Won't fit with the chain. AAAAAAAAAAAAArrrrrrrggggghhhhhhhh ************************************************************************************************************************ Fek.
 
Looks better but Im still not sold. I trepanned a circle round the H to try do make it look older and found a fault in the casting, its nowhere near through though. I'll get the extra lug on today and get it fitted up proper.

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