• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

83 CR500, here begineth the lesson

Looks good although I can't get my head round the gloss black...:eek:

From the pics it doesn't look like you have fitted the additional lug to the case to match the HVA billet primary case...are you going to ?

Not sure, probably not then regret it I expect. I'll talk to Andy next time see what he says.
 
They are put on there to stiffen up the area around the kick start....I fitted it to mine and that's when i noticed the casing is cracked...:eek:
 
quote="Wildebeest90210, post: 213304, member: 8076"]From what I can gather, the original piston on the 430 does not need them but the aftermarket Wiseco does need them? I could be wrong but it all looks good assembled and the piston looks well designed for them.

No the original 430 piston doesn't have any spacers..


The 430 wrist pin bearing is made wider so it does not float from side to side.
 

From what I can gather, the original piston on the 430 does not need them but the aftermarket Wiseco does need them? I could be wrong but it all looks good assembled and the piston looks well designed for them.

Really sharp Vapour Blasting - Did you have an 82 or 81 head ?? Just wondering it you had the old paint removed on cases and head first before being blasted for final finish ?
 
On aftermarket pistons and smallend bearing combinations, the bearing end float may be too big and using washers or collars to keep that under control is required. Just one caution, those washers groove the gudgeon pin over time and I have had a washer split after about 2 years of hard racing, the pieces were caught up in the bigend and some was coughed into the topend via transfer ports, with the dectruction of a prime engine as result. I reckon after about 30hrs of running tear down, inspect and replace gudgeon pin, circlips and washers.
 
Really sharp Vapour Blasting - Did you have an 82 or 81 head ?? Just wondering it you had the old paint removed on cases and head first before being blasted for final finish ?
Check out the thread '430 case composition' on the main vintage page. It starts and ends about the vapour blasting but wanders off into the realms of magnesium theories in the middle.
 
Sounds like the motor is reaching completion, don't forget to adjust the timing to the 84 Husky service bulletin. This will insure you don't break the cases again & or your
leg kick these monsters over. Mine has NO kick back now that i've adjusted to the bulletin specs :thumbsup:

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/500cc-timing-question.12650/#post-119597

Husky John
Cheers, that looks good. I won't read it until I'm there though. My brain only has finite space and it hurt just now doing comp/squish calcs.
 
When I picked up the barrel after vapour blasting the guy noticed its picked up by every stud. The cause apparently is over torquing. The piston I'm using is run in to this barrel though and I guess the next rebore will take care of it proper.

100_3826.JPG
 
if you have not gone oversize on your piston..you can cross hatch (Knerrell- spelling?) the piston & hone your cylinder... this will work well for quite sometime before you need to rebore & new piston
 
if you have not gone oversize on your piston..you can cross hatch (Knerrell- spelling?) the piston & hone your cylinder... this will work well for quite sometime before you need to rebore & new piston
It's well run in so will leave it and see how it runs. Tolerances on rings and piston good, dressed the piston a little so will see how it goes.
 
So, I get the kickstart sorted, modify the new ally clutch case slightly and vapour blast it. I go for a final fit and find I've got a 6 spring '403' one piece clutch basket that wont fit in the new case. What the FFFF. Is it an LC clutch? I won't find out til tomorrow I guess when I talk to HVAf UK. Feck Feck Feck !
 
Big 6 spring clutch basket stays and a late 4T case with a removable clutch cover is on its way. Disaster averted, I will now have available a one owner never used brand new shiny ally case.
Made up some small spacers to go behind the remachined stator and got timed in tonight. Got the hang of it in the end, 2mm BTDC to start with.

100_3842.JPG
 
I'm flying blind a little here, please tell me if this doesn't look right. Everything went together well though and felt right, 2mm pin etc.
 
I'm flying blind a little here, please tell me if this doesn't look right. Everything went together well though and felt right, 2mm pin etc.

Looks like that would work, but usually done with the head on. Then the dial indicator is placed in the spark plug hole with an adapter.
 
Looks like that would work, but usually done with the head on. Then the dial indicator is placed in the spark plug hole with an adapter.
I will make one up but thought as its still not complete I drilled a bit of angle to bolt on and used a mag base DTI straight up. I wondered if the plug being at an angle wether that would give a very slightly inaccurate measurement? A bit complicated maths for me.
 
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