Best Spark Plug 4 Terra: Show me your PLUGS

[wferrari]

Has anyone posted a "step by step" tutorial on how to change the TR 650 plugs?

Replacing the plugs is a very easy task if you have the right tools, something that you already have in your toolkit if you're replacing the original NGK plugs with 14mm thread sized ones. If you're going to use a 16mm thread spark plug, like the Brisk, then you may have issues, because the inner socket is very narrow, and you need to purchase a thin-walled tubular steel wrench. I personally solved the problem by purchasing a cheap set of tubular wrenches at a DYI store, and drilling a hole in the 16mm one so that it's at the right height and usable by the screwdriver in the toolkit.

Once you have the right tools, then you can proceed with the replacement:

- Pull out the electric plug from each spark plug's rubber cap by slightly raise the plastic security flap with a small screwdriver. Make sure to mark your electric plugs. For instance I've marked the outer one with a cross with a permanent marker.
- Raise the caps until they pop out. You can usually manage to that with the combined effort of both hands, but in case the cap is stuck, you can use a flat screwdriver for leverage, like the one in the toolkit. Needless to say, the tip of the screwdriver should never come in contact with any part of the cap, only with the top metal casing. The grey cap is the outer one.
- Remove the spark plugs by using the wrench and by rotating counterclockwise. After the initial resistance, you should be able to remove them by hand.
- Screw the new spark plugs back in. You can use the tubular wrench, but make sure to use your bare hand directly on it until you reach a stopping point. Do not apply any grease, oil or glue to the spark plugs filaments, just keep them dry. Once you've reached the stopping point, use the screwdriver for leverage on the the wrench to rotate the plug an extra quarter of a turn, no more, no less.
- Place the cap in, without pushing them and in a way that it's not in contact with the spark plugs electrode. Since it's a twin spark, I need to to make sure that both sparks are working. So what I do is to connect the caps to the proper electric plugs (make sure the the plastic flap is secured), push the outer cap in until you can feel that the electrode has been fully inserted (You may have to apply a stronger than usual force), start the engine, stop the engine (if it started), pull the outer cap out and push the inner cap in, start the engine, stop the engine, and finally push the outer cap in until they are both fully secured.

Hope this helps.

 

[Mark_H]

Has anyone posted a "step by step" tutorial on how to change the TR 650 plugs?

Hmm interesting.....In reality we should not need a guide how to change spark plugs as it is quite a simple, routine operation....except of course on a TR650.
Changing plugs, as with doing almost any other mechanical work on this bike is difficult to the point of being nearly impossible.

Here is my guide on how to do it.

Disconnection of the Coil Units needs three hands or a small tool jammed in to lift the security tag and then pull apart - note which connector goes onto which plug.
When pulling the Coil Units off the plugs there is only just enough room to extract them through the holes in the cylinder head. Keep a note of which one goes on each plug as they are coloured differently.
Extraction of the plugs is another twisted finger affair with the plug spanner only just fitting down the hole of the inner plug, one tip is to remove or push up the rubber inside the spanner so it is not such a tight fit onto the plug top. Also there is not enough room to take plugs and spanner out together, so you will have to separate them and fiddle them out.
As for fitting replacement plugs, if in my case you chose the Brisk AR10LGS type which are 16mm you have another problem in finding a plug spanner thin enough to fit down the inside plug hole - a super cheap thin wall one will do, but do not get one any longer than the stock spanner or it wont fit in the tiny space.
The trick is to fiddle the plug into the hole then fit the spanner as if they are together there is not enough room.

The job doesn't take too long, but it makes me wonder if they caught the B****** who designed it yet.

 

[mag00]

I'll throw in some tips too...

That little tab on the connector, yeah, be careful. Use a good flashlight to get a good look at it. Have somebody help you the first time if necessary. They can hold the flashlight minimum.

But something I feel is extremely important...Clean the area good, and not just once, but as you continue, every step. The inner plug sits down in a little hole. Dirt cannot escape and will fall into the engine when you pull the plug. The rubber boot is an interesting design, but can fail. There is a little weep hole at the bottom which can be seen from the outboard plug position. That should let any water out, but if the hole is plugged won't.

After the coil is removed, take a very good vacuum and clean. After removing plug, vacuum again.

When installing things, might be smart to put some silicon grease at the big seal of the boot as well as on the inside where the plug fits. Not too much that it goobers up the place, just a nice stable layer to provide ease of assembly and may catch any dirt that tries to sneak past.

Might want to have a beer handy too. If you get frustrated just sit back and chill, then get back to work again.

I have seen things like those little clips frustrate people so bad that stuff starts flying. Once you know the technique, it is so simple you will laugh.

Had another thought, you could put air nozzle with rubber tip on that weep hole and blast away while inboard plug is still installed. If anything comes flying out, you know you have to clean clean clean. Make sure the outboard plug hole is secure.

 

[Xtyling]

Thank you Wferrari, Mark H, and Mag00. As soon as my brisk plugs arrive from the USA i will get to it. For now, I will search for some cheap socket wrench hack like wferrari advised. And try to improvise an attachment hose for my vacuum to aid in cleaning the spark plug sockets. I'm sure this thread will be a treasure for more readers now.

 

[wferrari]

After the coil is removed, take a very good vacuum and clean. After removing plug, vacuum again.

Oops, forgot about that part. I personally used a compressed air pistol to perform the task. It seem the the coil in the inner spark plug fills the socket quite nicely, as I didn't notice any dust raising from it. The outer seems more prone to dust.

 

[nycrider]

1. Old spark plugs, NO ecu rest:
My Strada has been running poorly for the last 1k miles or so. It developed the deadspot people have been talking about between 2.5k-4k rpms . Keeping the throttle steady between those rpms makes the bike jerk back and forth frequently. Also, when twisting the throttle while the jerk is happening, makes the throttle cut out-in-out-in repeatedly which rocks me back and forth until i get out of those rpms. Along with that my Strada was exhibiting for as long as I had her frequent stalls when twisting the throttle from a stationary position, even with clutch pulled all the way in. Also, when pulling in the clutch lever in 1st going at a moderate speeds of 20mph, the rpms drop so low that the bikes seems likes it's going to stall, and it does from time to time.

2. Old spark plugs, ecu rest:
After the ecu reset I was surprised how visibly smoother the bike ran. The stalls when pulling off from a red light seemed to disappear for the day that I rode it, although pulling in the clutch at a moderate speed still made the rpms drop really low. The throttle cutting out-in-out-in seemed to happen much less frequently, yet it was still present. Altogether, the bike ran better, but was still not in it's optimal state.


{{{ 3. New brisk spark plugs, NO ecu rest:
The bike seemed to stall more often. What stood out is the engine dying after a cold start, it ran for 20 seconds and then died. The bike seemed as smooth as stage 2.

4. New brisk spark plugs, ecu rest:
The bike seemed to run exactly the same as in stage 2.

Conclusion: New spark plugs didn't seem to change much, ecu reset did, yet the bike is still not in it's optimal form. }}}
UPDATE: My Strada is running very well after the spark plug change and ecu reset on a second ride!

Old spark plugs:

Looks like I'll have to look into getting the bike mossed, check valves(9k miles on the odometer), or maybe replace the throttle cable.

 

[drzcharlie]

If it starts easy it's likely (but, not poured in stone) that the valves settings are within tolerance. ECU reset does not work with the TR or the Strada. The bike is lean to comply with EPA regs. You probably need to look into installing a power commander or perhaps the LC2.

 

[nycrider]

UPDATE:

I took my Strada on a second ride to work after brisk spark plug replacement and ecu reset and it is running much better than I first reported! I take it all back when I said the Brisk spark plugs didn't change anything (shh, help they're holding a gun to my head, shh). The throttle isn't cutting out-in-out-in anymore and it is responsive when twisted at any rpms, anytime. I guess the ECU needed to adjust to them? The bike also doesn't want to die all the time like it did before. The only weird thing I've noticed is the rpms jumping up and down on cold start. Couple times back and forth from 1500's to 2k and then a sudden spike to 3k, until it finally settled down. Ongoing, would it be normal to get improved MPG from new spark plugs? With old spark plugs and 2 gpr slip ons with no baffles, I was averaging 38mpg purely in the city. My dash now reports 21 miles ridden on half a gallon.


Moving on, there is one more thing that my bike lacks. It is smooth engine breaking. When I first bought the bike it was very smooth and then when the miles started adding up and first service was nearing, the bike was running rougher like it is now. I took it to the dealer for the first service and the bike was as smooth after as when I first bought it. Would anybody know what magical thing the dealer might have done? I don't think a simple oil change would make that much of a difference because when I changed the oil myself at 6k miles, the bike didn't feel as smooth as when dealer serviced it. The rough engine breaking is mostly visible in 1st and 2nd gears. When I let go of the throttle, the bike rocks me forward, and when I try to twist the throttle again from 0% twist, it jerks me backwards. Any antidote for this?

 

[drzcharlie]

Try adjusting the throttle cable slack first. It may be a bit slack (mine was). Secondly, the idle oscillation is likely the ECU learning where to trim the fuel input after the MOSS session. My bike had smilar oscillations until I installed the AF-XIED after which it abated. I am getting nearly 58 mpg at the moment. Your mpg seems low to me.

 

[hasenpfeffer]

I might suggest looking at your idle air controller. Not easy to get to, but easy to check once you have access.

 

[nycrider]

Try adjusting the throttle cable slack first. It may be a bit slack (mine was). Secondly, the idle oscillation is likely the ECU learning where to trim the fuel input after the MOSS session. My bike had smilar oscillations until I installed the AF-XIED after which it abated. I am getting nearly 58 mpg at the moment. Your mpg seems low to me.

Yeah I played with the throttle cable a little bit a while back because there was more than recommended freeplay, but it didn't seem to make the rough engine breaking go away. As for the mpg, I was getting like 5 more miles to a gallon with the baffles inserted and somewhere 55-60mpg at highway speeds.

On a second thought, I'll try tightening the throttle cable with the engine on and until I hear the revs barely go up and lock it at that. Previously I left a little bit of play room as recommended by the manual.
UPDATE: Well tightening the throttle cable till the revs slightly increase did not work. The rpm were all over the place and seemed to stick when I let go of the throttle, even though they were at 1550's at idle.

I might suggest looking at your idle air controller. Not easy to get to, but easy to check once you have access.

What would be the symptoms of a faulty idle air controller?

 

[drzcharlie]

I think Hasenpfeffer may be onto something, I'd forgotten that several have cleaned and therefore alleviated the rough idle by doing that.

 

[hasenpfeffer]

What would be the symptoms of a faulty idle air controller?

Not so much faulty, as dirty. If it's dirty, the amount of air the ECU is trying to control can differ from what is actually being supplied, confusing the ECU and affecting the intended mixture.

See here.

 

[nycrider]

Not so much faulty, as dirty. If it's dirty, the amount of air the ECU is trying to control can differ from what is actually being supplied, confusing the ECU and affecting the intended mixture.

See here.

Interesting. I'll check mines, but I never had this weird idle on my old spark plugs.

 

[LainattheWired]

Interesting. I'll check mines, but I never had this weird idle on my old spark plugs.

Might want to check your throttle position sensor plug also, mine did the same thing when
it came unplugged. Also opening and closing the throttle a few times completely and slowly with ignition on but not started. Worth a try anyway.

 

[engineerk9]

NGK list are plugs low on the durability chart. I found a Brisk plug that matches or specs, but I know nothing about the European brand.

Brisk made a huge difference to my TR

 

[engineerk9]

Any updates on the Brisk plug?

I'm totally impressed with the Brisks

 

[engineerk9]

Brisk should give you 25,000klms

 

[DeLewis]

I just installed a Brisk plugs as well. They haven't made a huge difference to my bike except perhaps to a more steady idle and less stalling when cold.

 

[mag00]

5K on bike now, brisk plugs about 3.5 and look fine. I could see that they found the side to fire off of and that is where some erosion was. I didn't mark them for indexing purposes AAARGH. I think the pulstar may be my next plug down the road.