• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Beware all 13 redhead owners. Blown hose & more

The impellers are metal but you will need to test to make sure seals are still good. When you take your clutch out, feel for excessive play back and forth on the clutch basket because you may have melted your rubber bushings. Also, check valve adjustment. Change clutch fluid over to Dot 5 or fancy stuff Nantista runs. What saved your engine was not the quality of the oil, but the viscosity and flow. Oil is a coolant.

When is your next race and where?
 
Kenneth Webb said:
Just ordered a gallon of Maxilube for all my bikes and trucks too. Thanks Tinken! Nice folks at Maxilube.
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Don't put that in any vehicle with a catalytic converter. It will kill the cat. You can mix it with Mobil1 synthetic red grease, what I do when I repack my racing bearings.

Always welcome. :)
 
Next race is March 16th. Should I just order new bushings from ya and replace anyways? I need to order your coolant anyways and send my ECU to you for a reflash. Ill continue running Mobil 1 in everyone of my bikes from this point. Oil is still full and not that dark. I would have thought it would be like tar after what happened. Did you get a chance to look at the pics of the cam? What do you think? Exhaust side lobe is a little discolored. I am lucky so far! Im bummed my redhead is discolored and so is my ignition cover and cylinder. Oh well ill take that over rebuilding motor!
Thanks!
 
Cams look good, just keep an eye on that valve lash. The valves in the new heads are not so good. Do a compression check. The clutch kit is only $120, but I'd check your clutch play first. If it starts chattering, even a little, clutch mod. When we rebuild these engines, they get this kit, a relieved crank and a ported head with new valves. They last a really long time after that, even when abused in racing.

 
Any idea on compression #? Just drained oil. It smelled like it was a little burnt. Oil was changed before race. I was gonna stretch it one more ride as it only had 50 miles on it. OIl filter was clean. The more I get into this bike the more amazed I am that it survived and is in good shape. Love all the internet experts out there who say these motors are a weak point..
 
Try not to stretch the oil in this engine when racing. Oil is cheap, engine is not. If you race it, drain it.
 
fire1998 said:
After engine started and cams look ok, I think, I ordered a CV4 kit. Looks like I can still use coupler for fan. That's good to know.
Maybe Tinken you can answer this. Bike was super hot and got stuck in first gear and no clutch for about 8 miles or so. When bike cooled it shifts easily thru gears without motor running. I'm thinking it was either the clutch fluid boiling or plates got super hot. Plan on changing clutch fluid and pulling plates from clutch to give em a good look. Also do you know if water pump impeller is metal? Don't want to pull cover if don't have to.
Also I'm torn on what to do with motor. Change all fluids a few times and run it as is or pull motor and send it to you guys to have a look at it. Ty said if it has compression and runs it's probably ok. Andy Jefferson said if cams are good motor is good.
Any thoughts?
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Yes the coolant pump impeller is metal, I just had mine opened last week.

I would pull the generator side cover as well and clean up inside there and check for any meltdowns in there as well.
My maintenance cycle includes cleaning out the gen side from time to time, it always gathers mag particals and other engine debris.
 
Tinken said:
The impellers are metal but you will need to test to make sure seals are still good. When you take your clutch out, feel for excessive play back and forth on the clutch basket because you may have melted your rubber bushings. Also, check valve adjustment. Change clutch fluid over to Dot 5 or fancy stuff Nantista runs. What saved your engine was not the quality of the oil, but the viscosity and flow. Oil is a coolant.

When is your next race and where?
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note also: those clutch backing plate bushings will get heat hardened and the clutch will get a jerky feel or in some cases even melt down fouling your motor with "plastic" fragments (Ask how I know this), at this point after all that heat it's probably best to send in your basket to ZipTy Racing and have them install the bushing kit, to get off to a fresh start with fresh bushings.

you mean that robertaccio clown? Motul RBF660 is his fluid of choice.
 
So much good info on these bikes here! Tinken, I will be using the Maxilube in my non-cat bikes, the gear box and final drive of my BMW and in my Dodge diesel. Sounds like really good insurance. CV4 hoses ordered ($ouch$) but I want to get my 310 set up right before I ride it, if I ever do. Back from warranty starter repair in the next few days.
The T stat will be going away too. When I pass by on the way to Death Valley next month I will have your shop red lash the ECU. I just trail ride this bike so hopefully it will last a while.

On the Maxilube; the recommend 2 oz per quart for initial treatment and 1 thereafter. That's what I will do.
 
Sounds good. You can actually just use one ounce and half each change. If you're running M1, it has a great additive package already.

I don't believe in all that hocus-pocus the company claims, but I know that if you are racing and you break a ring out in the middle of Egypt, you are likely to finish and not dnf. It won't help in all situations, but I've seen the engines come in with the rings welded to the pistons, at least they came in.
 
robertaccio said:
you simply cut the hose to adjust for the fan thermostat.
PS For inspection/note: even after I added the ZipTy tank spacers I got another tiny chafe leak at the coolant pump spigot, with a full fuel load that lower tank portion moves around and can still make contact, I added a slit hose as a doubler, just like you see on my lower hose in this photo. In this photo you can even see the spigot hose area has been chafed on the CV4 logo (this is before the tank spacers were added). This machine requires lots of race/ride prep and close inspection and solid mods to bullet proof it for tough conditions.
Another note: my first thermosat equipped dirtbike was my KTM250EXC, I left the housing (there were no real hose kits then) installed but removed the thermostat, one less thing to fail under race conditions, imagine if your T-stat fails closed, its happened on some of my older cars, nogo on a race bike!! get it off. I wanted the thermostat removed asap on my TE310 and also on my TXC310R, the CV4 hose kits took care of that..
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What radiator guards are those? Do you know if they fit with a 2.9 gal IMS tank???
 
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