Decatting the TE511 Muffler...

[Cosmokenney]

will be working on the insert here shortly.

Did you do this and take pictures?

 

[MLuker]

Well I learned a great deal in precise planning and common sense.

1. First get the rivets removed by drilling with a big drill bit that will grab and kick the rivet out and punch it through with a screwdriver.
2. Heat gun the surrounding flange to slide the exterior part of.
3. Use a 4 inch cut off wheel grinder to remove the 4(?) spot welds. (first picture) This should allow you to put get a hold of the flange with the holes in it and rip that out. (second picture)


4. Right where that was covering the interior pipe is where you cut through.
5. IMPORTANT OBVIOUS INSTRUCTIONS I DIDNT THINK ABOUT AND WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF BY ANYBODY. Besides the one person said they cut and needed to re-weld the exhaust because they probably made the same mistake. You need to make sure you cut more than a cm or two from the angle on my bottom arrow. I know this is pretty obvious but in my frustration with the process I forgot to think through that and started hacking away. Hope this helps anybody thinking about this. This cat-converter is a freaking brick and there's no way anybody actually expected us to keep it this way. should have came with a sign of obvious changes once we purchased!

 

[Huskynoobee]

That's why they would include an Akro slip on with the models not destined for the US.

 

[Cosmokenney]

The Q4 is quieter because it has a baffle welded inside and they charge you $100 more for this.

This adds considerable back pressure. Alternatively you can add baffles that merely redirect the sound into the outer sound packing without adding the back pressure.

Even the insert can have a baffle added to reflect sound backward into the packing and not the exhaust exit.

No turn key options here unfortunately, but I did manage to scrounge up a project listed below if you were interested...



A crude drawing of added baffles, image A on top is a straight through baffle. Image B has baffles added to redirect the sound waves into the exhaust packing which quiets the exhaust without adding too much back pressure.

What You'll Need

1- Cutting tool to cut slots in your baffles, die grinder works
4- Fender Washers to insert and weld into the slots
Welding unit or torch (friend or shop if you don't have one) to tack the washers in place so they don't rattle

How To Do It

1. Take the baffle out of the pipe and remove the fiberglass packing.

2. With a hacksaw, die grider wheel, or chop saw cut 4 slices not quite half waythrough the baffle.

3. Find a couple fender washers that are the same diameter as the baffle pipe. You could just cut them in half or the line just above the hole in the center if extra baffle is needed.

4. This is what I used to put into the baffle.

5. Here you see one washer in the pipe.

6. Here are two washers.. and so on. Note: I would add baffles with such size to where you could not see directly down the middle of the tube like those shown in this picture. This would assure that the sound waves were being redirected completely and not straight out the pipe.

7. I split the pipe in half so you can see how the split washers will look inside the pipe. Weld them into place and if you feel like it grind off any burrs that are left, although it’s not necessary. Repack the fiberglass or if it’sbad then replace the packing. Reinstall the baffles and fire it up!


An alternative method I would use is to v-notch the washers and then place them 180° apart so that there were no line of sight for the exhaust to flow through. The more of these you had, the lower the dB output you would have. Remember to leave room for your insert at the end.

Sorry to dredge this up. I'm seriously considering doing this now that I have a welder. When you say to remove the baffle are you talking about the core (that main tube that the packing is wrapped around), or something like the Quiet Insert?

Seems the best method would be to do this to the perforated core so the sound goes into the packing more. Whereas if you put the washers into the non-perforated quiet insert, sound will reflect back into the core?

 

[Tinken]

The baffle in the center of this Q4 is there in the middle. Had they used two half moon pieces instead of one solid piece, the sound pressure would have been reduced without so much back pressure.

 

[Cosmokenney]

The baffle in the center of this Q4 is there in the middle. Had they used two half moon pieces instead of one solid piece, the sound pressure would have been reduced without so much back pressure.

Okay, so I'm trying to baffle my PowerCore 4. I have the 1-3/4" quiet insert, but I'm wondering if I should add the half moons to the quiet insert, or the PC4's core? I guess I'll try them in the quiet insert first. That way I only destroy a $30 part if I screw up.

 

[Tinken]

Not sure how you would add them to the insert, but it will be easier to fix if you make a mistake. I would add them to the core, holding them in place with two large wood dowels. On the core, you weld from the outside, just small tack welds is all that is needed.

 

[MFGamesta]

Just performed this procedure on my '13 TE449. Worked like a charm. Cut all the way around with a grinder with a cutting blade. Took about 2 minutes to get it cut out. Saving up for a bike for my son so I'm trying to stop spending money on this one.

 

[Cosmokenney]

I just decatted mine too. Unfortunately I cut too close to the flange and that allowed the pipe to come off. I'm going to have to have someone weld it for me because it's stainless and my welder is just blasting right through the thin metal. So for anyone attempting this, be careful and cut on the far side of the existing weld.

 

[DJay]

Rather than going to the trouble of de-catting the oem big can muffler, I think a better option is to add baffles to an inexpensive silencer like the powercore4 and shed 5lbs of high center of gravity weight. Baffles such as half mood shaped wedges can be easily welded into the silencer at alternate angles as well as a smaller diameter insert. There is always a compromise between output power and noise. The big can is heavy and stifles the power considerably.

I want to quiet down my FMF PC4. I already have a quiet insert and I am sure it's well over 96db. Do you have a picture of how this is done?

 

[Robster]

Else you just buy my stock Akra Ti (europe) muffler for 300 shipped to California. :-)
If so email me at rliljekvist@telia.com.

//rob