Fork seal replacement

[suprize]

im keen to get this sorted as well as im lining up for a set. the local kawa dealer wanted to know the dimensions of the seals

 

[Kartwheel68]

Nope. Kawi seals did not work. 38mm ID. Couldn't get the tube to go in without damaging the seal or bending the spring. Guess I order the correct double seals.

That is the wrong seal. There are both Kawasaki and Honda motorcycles that had 39mm ID fork seals, that is what I use. I believe the Honda seal is for something like an '85-'86 VF750 and the other is the '85-'86ish XL350R. They are the same OD as the Husky with 1mm smaller ID, this helps with a tighter seal, there is more stiction at first but once they break in they are fine.

 

[varmint]

Quick question... I noticed that when I installed the tubes into the lower that it would bind about 6 inches from the bottom of the lower. Should the tube easily go to the bottom? This happened even before I put the seals in.

Also how much does each fork need after a complete rebuild?

 

[suprize]

have you tightened the lower bolts up on the damper before pushing the tubes to the bottom. ifso the damper rod can be misaligned and bind on the inside of the tube. always bottom the tube before doing up the damper rod bolt under the forks.
if you don't have the damper rods in, you have the European enduro champion...bengt phorks...

 

[suprize]

he can some one give me the specs on those kawa seals//, id 39 ok, od? thickness 10mm

 

[varmint]

They bind before I even have the damper installed. Just putting the tubes in the lowers they stop about 6 inches from the bottom. When assembled, I dont think the tubes will ever get that low but was just concerned. They are together and seem to be ok. Thanks

 

[Kartwheel68]

They are 39x52x11mm and these are all the Hondas that use it.

• 1983-1985 CB 650 SC Nighthawk
• 1983 CX 650 C Custom
• 1985-1987 VF 700 C Magna
• 1984-1985 VF 700 F Interceptor
• 1984-1987 VT 700 C Shadow
• 1988 VF 750 C Magna
• 1983-1984 VF 750 F Interceptor
• 1983 VT 750 C Shadow
• 1988 VT 800 C Shadow
• 1981-1982 CB 900 F Super Sport
• 1983 CB 1000 C Custom
• 1981-1982 CBX
• 1983 CB 1100 F Super Sport
• 1980-1983 GL 1100 Goldwing/Interstate
• 1982-1983 GL 1100 Aspencade
• 1985-1986 ATC 250 R
• 1984-1985 XL 350 R
• 1983-1987 XL 600 R

 

[varmint]

Noob question #99... how high up do I install the forks into the top triple? What was the stock setting?

 

[justintendo]

Noob question #99... how high up do I install the forks into the top triple? What was the stock setting?

i guess stock would be so just the cap is showing or maybe an 1/8th inch of chrome..
did you get the binding taken care of? there should be none, really..

 

[varmint]

i guess stock would be so just the cap is showing or maybe an 1/8th inch of chrome..
did you get the binding taken care of? there should be none, really..

I think so. I might have to drain an recenter the damper on one fork that has a slight squeak when I compress completely.

 

[suprize]

if your riding tight woods type single line, 1st 2nd 3rd gear trails and tracks, pull the forks up half an inch above the top clamp and soften the rear springs a couple of slots. the bike will turn in much nicer. if your looking at top gear stuff in the sand or open country run the fork caps level or at the tubes/ cap thread line level with the top clamp to gain some straight line stability. stiffen the rear springs a couple of slots as well.

 

[varmint]

if your riding tight woods type single line, 1st 2nd 3rd gear trails and tracks, pull the forks up half an inch above the top clamp and soften the rear springs a couple of slots. the bike will turn in much nicer. if your looking at top gear stuff in the sand or open country run the fork caps level or at the tubes/ cap thread line level with the top clamp to gain some straight line stability. stiffen the rear springs a couple of slots as well.

Thank you. 1/2 inch is where I put 'em.

 

[Alan Day]

The most difficult thing is holding the Aluminum dampening rod during disassembly and assembly. Here is my take. Just loosen the bolt on the very bottom of each fork leg with impact gun (hopefully the bolt will loosen and not spin the dampening rod). Loosen and remove the top collar caps on each fork while still snug in triple clamps. Drain Oil and completely remove the bolt on the bottom of the fork legs. Remove forks from triple clamps, remove spring sets, dampening rod, and pull upper fork body out from lower body. Remove the large dome shaped washer at the very bottom of the lower fork. Clean and flush, and change out top out washer on dampening rod. Pry fork seals out with something like a tire iron. Clean everything up, lightly lubricate everything, and drive/install new seals in (two per leg). Assemble. Note before tightening the bolt on the bottom of the fork legs, compress the upper fork tube all the way down to bottom and snug up the bottom bolt and make sure the dampening rod is centered and aligned. Once tight make sure fork tube works up and down freely. Tightening that bolt is difficult as the dampening rod will want to spin, this is where you need a homemade tool. I have had luck with a wooden dowel sharpened or tapered to a point. I lightly tap the dowell into the top of the rod, grab on to it and keep it from rotating while tightening the lower bolts. This has been sufficient for me on more that one occasion. Prior to adding oil, and the springs, with the fork tube all the way down add fluid. Work the tube up and down a few times, and fill with fluid to desired level. Place springs in and install top caps. Scott

 

[suprize]

that's pretty well spot on. if you centre the damper rod and have smooth tube action (said the bishop to the barmaid...) you can bang the springs and caps on to hold the damper rod for that final tweak. ive found that if the paint on the recess in the bottom of the fork slider is chipped or not fully cleaned out, they can weep a few drops if your not riding much.

 

[ruwfo]

The Kawasaki p/n you want is this : 92049-1251

 

[GaryM]

Help on feedback - I just got a set to try , the smaller size than 40 mm Hey so tight , i mean real tight.

Do they loosen up. of far by hand not moving good. John I seen your forks work on the 430 were they this
product. ?? Mine came from Moose.

Also checking on the SKF seals - the non friction or reduced friction. the Marzoccki model may fit expensive

 

[suprize]

I used the 39 11 52's with great results. was a wriggle to get the tubes in at first but they run well, nice and plush...so far so good

 

[GaryM]

Well I got some so going to try them the 39 that is.

But also downloaded the SKF phone app on seals
they seem to be a bit thiner , but all in all seem to be new option to try for huskies. But $63 dollars a set for
these is a lot. Must be the low friction material. They are a 40mm 52 x 8 in size. Ordering is deceiving as cost is for one fork only 31 a
side

 

[suprize]

ive also used the seals that Phil at husqvarnaparts sells with good results.

 

[cruisetopdown]

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hi to France ! Motoduc 84 !
y restore my 125 WR 1982 and today
front forck 40 mm HVA 430 1983 !
y am happy results !
(my english is bad ,excuse me )

your English may be bad visiteur, but your tank resto jobs are AWSOME!