• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Making the Dog run as it should

... but I didn't have enough time to do a decent study.
...


...
I surmise ...

Guys, Glad to see that you continue to experiment with this and theorize about what this one-size-works-on-every-engine device is actually doing.

You could bring all the guesswork to an end by purchasing an Innovate Motorsports LC-2, installing it in the exhaust, making a couple short rides, and plotting the results. I think you'd be surprised to see what it is (or isn't) actually doing.

When you were done with the tests you'd have two options:

--Keep the LC-2 and wire it into your ECU like Charlie did and have a proven solution (proven by Charlie, big-t and others) that does add a controlled amount of fuel. Then sell the Magnum to the next experimenter (unless you found it didn't do much).

--Keep the Magnum and sell the LC-2

In either case you'd be out of pocket an additional $50 but would know for sure what was going on. Sometimes you can rent an LM-2.
 
Further experiments today and I am so far one very happy camper !

My adjustment of the POT on the Dyna-Boost is still at about 50% with the dash reading about 15C below ambient. I have good results on this setting and intend to leave it to see if the ECU can adapt out or not. My theory is to leave myself some further adjustment if things don't work out.

Took the bike out at 11 am through 40 minutes of heavy traffic in stifling heat (45+C) and not one splutter or stumble.
Then off up the mountain road - Cebu Trans Central Highway (Cebu City to Balamban), steep and twisty up and up then steeply down and up some more, mostly 2nd and 3rd gear with the occasional drop to 1st for very slow trucks struggling up the hills and max speed of around 80 Kmh (50 mph) on the straight parts.
In other words, lots of throttle and gear work to give the chip some exercise, plus some cooler air to see if it makes a difference.

Previously this had been a very difficult road to ride as I considered the Strada plain dangerous when it stumbled so much on the slow turns or even stalled on the downhill closed throttle changes into bends.
With the VR fitted and dialled to 20C less than ambient the bike ran well with no stalls but had much less engine braking and backfired a lot on the overruns.
It was actually quite scary as I could never rely on the engine braking being constant when diving into the very tight downhill bends. Plus as we got up into the cooler air I had to dial the VR back towards normal in order to maintain the dash reading around 10C or the engine would 'run away' a little too much.

Today with the Dyna-Boost unit it was a totally different story....a very enjoyable ride, loads of slow speed chugging going up the hills and out of the bends with the engine pulling smoothly right up through the 1600 to 4/5000 range in all the gears and no hit of a flat spot or stumble. Reliable and fairly consistent engine braking into the bends with hardly any backfire on the overrun too. Up in the high cooler sections with the dash reading around 15C the bike ran like a dream and not a hint of flat spot or stumble all the way and I didn't need to make any adjustments either.

One thing I did notice on the very long downhill closed throttle sections is that there appears to be a cyclic action on the engine braking, which is definitely something new.
For about the first 10 seconds of closed throttle the engine braking is good and as I would consider quite normal, then for about 3 seconds it eases off slightly and the bike speeds up a little, then it shuts back down to normal again. This goes on a cycle of about 10 and 3 all the way down the long hills.
Possible evidence of Roger's theory of the chip having a pulsed action on the O2 sensor signal, but unfortunately I have not yet been able to source a DVM to get some decent readings.
After it cooled down the Exhaust (Finger) check back home, also after 30 mins in the traffic reveals zero deposits - not rich or lean, just perfect :banana:

The tests continue, status is -

Original 2013 ECU mapping never been MOSS'd, fuel Petron Blaze 100 RON with zero ethanol, Brisk AOR10LGS plugs, K&N Airfilter, standard (except for De-Cat) exhausts, Cannisterectomy and AIT sensor sitting in the Air Intake on the right side beak. Dyna-Boost chip at 50% adjustment.

Next plan is to let the bike run some more at the same chip setting and see if it still goes well, especially in the heat here.
One idea I have is to pull the fuse on the Dyna-Boost chip and see how the bike runs and how long it takes to revert back to the stalling dog, but that is not something I really need to do just yet.

I have a friend here with a very bad stumbling Terra and plan to fit the Dyna-Boost to his bike and see if it instantly cures it - for me that would be the icing on the cake !!


Mark, it's possible that the pot has 3 terminals, one leg is a series resistor to the AIT, the opposing leg, is used to time the frequency of the pulse to the O2
It could actually be quite a "clever" devise
I agree with Roger that it's not quite as sophisticated as LC or whatever, however if it does give results
Which is what most of us are after
Keep testing, you might well be very pleasantly rewarded
 
It's arrived, plus a "test" plug & a " bye-pass" plug, l have requested how best to use them, as yet no reply
I'm back from the FPSO, unfortunately with a work damaged knee, surgery etc, no test riding for a few weeks
 
Many thanks for the positive reply.

Ok I have played a bit with the device today but not been on any decent run to really test it, all I can say is that in traffic the bike is almost 100% good as far as lean stumbles or flat spots are concerned and power delivery appears to be smooth right through too. One thing I do note is it also has virtually no backfire on the overrun and normal engine braking again, whereas if I dialled the VR in too far the engine lost some of its braking and backfired quite a lot. Now as stated, apart from Brisk Plugs and the AIT sensor shifted across the intake which has a K&N filter, the fuel system is standard, but the bike is also de-catted.

As far as the pot is concerned I have started to adjust it at half a turn a time and I do note that it now has an effect on the dash temp, ie it is applying a resistance to the AIT signal. Each clockwise turn of the pot results in about 1 degree C of reduction on the display. Currently I have it at approx 5C below ambient, reading 27C but I really didn't notice too much change in the bike as I adjusted it. but a longer run tomorrow will tell me more. As you know this ECU takes time to adjust to inputs.

As for the Chip, I have a spare Dyna-Boost unit ready for a friend but unfortunately I cannot read the actual chip number properly, but I might try a bit of photographic trickery tomorrow to see if I can blow up a picture to get it.

The connections to the bike are clearly displayed on the website, as are the fitting and operating instructions.

Basically it has 6 wires as follows -
2 (Red/Black) are the 12V supply +/-
2 (Purple) are the AIT connection which is in series and no polarity (this to me indicates that a VR is in place there)
2 (Blue) are the O2 sensor wires, there are two for systems that operate with double lambda sensors pre and post CAT, but for the TR650 the instruction is to connect any one to the signal wire (black) of the single lambda sensor cabling.

In the blurb they clearly state that when unpowered the unit is inactive and the ECU will receive normal signals. When powered you are advised to adjust the pot by 1/4 turn at a time and test throttle response and power "on the fly" until you get the best results. I have commenced adjustments and all is still good as I go down the dash temp scale.

Exact explanation of operation is given in the documentation as follows -

" This Fuel Controller tricks the ECU into thinking the intake air is much more cooler, then the ECU will send more fuel for a richer mix, besides if the current model has an Oxygen Sensor it fools O2 sensor voltage to block restrictions developed by the ECU. The module allows you to adjust the Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) "

There is a lot of extra (not relevant to my bike) info regarding already modified engines, exhaust headers, decats etc and also there are other claims of more power and better economy etc, but nothing that I would consider to be outrageous or 'pie in the sky' claims.

I would like to add that the Post Sales feedback and support from the manufacturer is second to none with a 7 days a week online tech support too.
Furthermore they offer a 10 year factory warranty and openly request feedback from purchasers, something which as a Husky owner I and many others very much miss from our manufacturer.

So far so good - it appears to work and work quite well.


Hi Mark Quick update, with nothing to occupy my mind, whilst my knee recovers from the surgery, l installed the D-Boost, once l had a better understanding of how it functions - my 12volts was from the Rear light
I reset the Pot by winding anti-clockwise until l felt the clicks, this meant that one side was at zero ohmns resistance & the other a max resistance
This added zero ohmns to the AIT
I did the ecu Reset
Then with the ignition on, observe the dash temperature, then slowly increase the Pot, watching the AIT temperature reducing as the Pot is wound in
I set mine at 3degC lower than ambient
I did 2 short 20klm test runs this afternoon
Since we have an "intelligent" ecu l understand it may take a few more test runs, before everything settles down
I'm currently at 8 turns of 25 (?)
Ran reasonably well, much smoother on the 2nd run
I'll look at checking with the GS911 at some point
I know it looks quite crude, actually like something l'd "knock-up" in my shed
Let's see how we progress, it might be one of the simplest solutions
 
.......... what this one-size-works-on-every-engine device...........

Hmm just as I was thinking you were going to be constructive......

Prior to despatch Magnum contacted me to confirm that I required a device for a TR650 as they have different models/specs for different bikes.

Thanks for your advice, there is a third option, but it could lead to you having some unwanted rectal surgery in the near future.
 
Suggesting an Lc-2 test is far more constructive than your third option, which would be 100X more difficult for you to implement than sticking a gauge in your bike's exhaust. ;)
 
Hmm just as I was thinking you were going to be constructive......

Prior to despatch Magnum contacted me to confirm that I required a device for a TR650 as they have different models/specs for different bikes.

Thanks for your advice, there is a third option, but it could lead to you having some unwanted rectal surgery in the near future.

Hi Mark - experimenting with mine - l've been doing 33 klm loops, mix of bendy bush roads & freeway, 2 or 3 times a day, my idea being that each one will "encourage" the ecu to learn what it needs to allow my bike to perform well

l started at minus 3degC (8 turns of the Pot), then 9 turns & just now 10 turns (approx minus 5degC)

There appears to be total of 25 turns between zero (reset) & Full (? ohms)

My TRs running quite well, the odd "pop" on decelerating, no stumbles on part load - l'll ride like this for awhile see if the ecu "adapts" out
 
I just returned from a 885 mile round trip ride from my home in Fayetteville, Arkansas to Rio Vista, Texas. My LC2 and the TR650 performed impeccably. I was happy with the overall performance of the bike. I averaged 57 MPG going down (wind at my back) and 52 MPG coming home (wind at my face). As far as I am concerned the LC2 was the right choice.
 
A bit more info on the progress with Dyna-Boost unit (s) - I am away at work at the moment and unable to test any further, however....

Based on my positive results and that of one other, I know of 25 more TR650 owners in the Philippines who have this week purchased the units and are currently fitting them to their bikes. I have so far received positive feedback from two of these guys already and will continue to gather information.
They set up a dealership and imported the units for $138 inc shipping etc - not a bad price.

Maybe, just maybe, the 'snake-oil' product has some potential :-)
 
A bit more info on the progress with Dyna-Boost unit (s) - I am away at work at the moment and unable to test any further, however....

Based on my positive results and that of one other, I know of 25 more TR650 owners in the Philippines who have this week purchased the units and are currently fitting them to their bikes. I have so far received positive feedback from two of these guys already and will continue to gather information.
They set up a dealership and imported the units for $138 inc shipping etc - not a bad price.

Maybe, just maybe, the 'snake-oil' product has some potential :-)

I'm running on +10 turns, plus have just fitted the mark2 3D printed air filter - have done several hundred klms, bike running really well - ride down to Canberra & back next week
Except for a stall at the end of my drive every morning, the D-Boost appears to be doing everything they promised
 
I'm running on +10 turns, plus have just fitted the mark2 3D printed air filter - have done several hundred klms, bike running really well - ride down to Canberra & back next week
Except for a stall at the end of my drive every morning, the D-Boost appears to be doing everything they promised


Good news, I am getting similar positive reports from the Philippines guys, although most of them are still out enjoying their first rides with the Dyna-Boost newly fitted and making adjustments.
I have asked the guy who runs the Husky Owners Club to get them all to give me as much information as possible, ie nature of stalling or other issues and how the Dyna-Boost has improved things and on what settings etc.
Onwards with the 'snake-oil, one fix for all bikes' and all that !!
 
Good news, I am getting similar positive reports from the Philippines guys, although most of them are still out enjoying their first rides with the Dyna-Boost newly fitted and making adjustments.
I have asked the guy who runs the Husky Owners Club to get them all to give me as much information as possible, ie nature of stalling or other issues and how the Dyna-Boost has improved things and on what settings etc.
Onwards with the 'snake-oil, one fix for all bikes' and all that !!

It might be "snake-oil" however I'm of the opinion that for everyday use it could be one of the simplest & less expensive solutions

My AIT sensor is in the righthand front beak, ahead of both the radiator & the airfilter inlet

At 10 turns on the "Pot-screw" the dash shows a temperature less than 5degC below atmospheric - which possibly explains the single "stall" as l turn out of my drive & the occasional "pop" on the over-run, otherwise it runs very well

The 350klms down to Canberra will be the first of longer runs, let's see how the ecu "educates" itself - then 350klms back to Sydney

I'm intending Cameron Corner in August
 
Good news, I am getting similar positive reports from the Philippines guys, although most of them are still out enjoying their first rides with the Dyna-Boost newly fitted and making adjustments.
I have asked the guy who runs the Husky Owners Club to get them all to give me as much information as possible, ie nature of stalling or other issues and how the Dyna-Boost has improved things and on what settings etc.
Onwards with the 'snake-oil, one fix for all bikes' and all that !!


Mark H, Sydney to Canberra this morning, setting 12 turns - ran really well, actually satisfactorilly
In Canberra, Dahlitz Motorcycles have invested in the Computer & software necessary to update the TR, Strada & Nuda ecus
Now l will test with the "updated" ecu, see how things go
I'll leave the D-Booster installed, but on zero setting - l actually quite like it, it does give results
 
Great news you managed to get your ECU updated Keith!
I would urge you to uninstall everything back to stock & go from there.
Happy to meet up & compare our bikes.
 
We finally managed to get together and do some real time logging with a GS911 from a Terra with the latest firmware

The preliminary information below should not be taken out of context or considered an attempt to flame anyone, it is merely setting out the results of the real time logging

Firstly I am a little surprised that the VR which is common the the F800/G650GS seems to be set to regulate to 13.8 to 14.2v which is the same as the early 650GS and F800GS BMs which were undercharging batteries rather than the updated VR which regulate to 14.4 volt. BMW updated the GS VR to overcome the under charging

Secondly the data indicates the temperature from the AIT is very stable and a reasonable indication of actual air temperature. The AIT is mounted further back than the AIT on the 650GS BM and I expected to see some engine heat influences but saw less than I would normally expect from the GS in city traffic at the start and end of the 30 mins riding which was logged. It is admittably winter here at the moment so some summer data would be worth logging

Thirdly the data indicates that unlike the earlier 650GS Rotax machines the BMS-E on the Terra operates in closed loop for 95+% of the time

This means that use of any of the AIT spoofers will not succeed
 
Wayne, Nice work. It's always good to have data. I'm interested in some of the other data collected and have sent you a PM. I really enjoy examining these realtime logs and have for about a dozen other bikes. It will be interesting to see what trim information is reported.

The 95% Closed Loop seems quite common for newer bikes. But even on an aggressive ride on my R1150, the old Motronic still manages Closed Loop 40-50% of the time.

Well done!
 
Well there is a surprise (not). Those that insisted the booster plug works were staunch in the beginning.

Good work, that's several more pieces of the puzzle in place.

Charlie, my Booster plug worked for nearly 14,000klms, it was Pod-mod & Sydney heatwave that triggered the ecu challenges
 
Charlie, my Booster plug worked for nearly 14,000klms, it was Pod-mod & Sydney heatwave that triggered the ecu challenges


After a period without the BP at about 11,000ks. I had the TR mossed and new plugs went in. This dramatically improved the bike but still occasionally stalled. So the BP went back in. Currently 24,000ks and no stalls
 
Sorry you guys. There are quite a few that use the BP and are quite happy with it. If it is working for you well, I am glad it is. Different strokes for different folks.
 
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