• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

One hole too many

I was lucky enough to find the same damage to my clutch basket ring gear on my 1988 400, I replaced it with a good second hand basket as I couldn't convince myself that it wouldn't keep on putting metal through the gearbox.
Tony.
 
2premo said:
the notches as yours have are on another thread, same question

can we see a pic of the inside of the cover
Click to expand...


Premo, Here is a pic of the hole from the inside.

Please send me the title to the thread. My search came back with lots of good discussions, but none specifically on my "notched" gear.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2079.JPG
    IMG_2079.JPG
    185.7 KB · Views: 59
ajcmbrown said:
I was lucky enough to find the same damage to my clutch basket ring gear on my 1988 400, I replaced it with a good second hand basket as I couldn't convince myself that it wouldn't keep on putting metal through the gearbox.
Tony.
Click to expand...

Good point! :thinking: I'll start looking.
 
if you want to change it out, count your teeth on the basket, I have a really nice one
if interested PM me
 
Brad-in-STL said:
Thanks Tony! That must be the one. What do you think caused the damage in your case?
Click to expand...

I think it was an incorrectly assembled kick starter that caused the damage, but if you read the thread it explains it as well as I could at the time.
My primary and clutch were 33/76 from memory. Yours may be very different.
Tony.
 
ajcmbrown said:
I think it was an incorrectly assembled kick starter that caused the damage, but if you read the thread it explains it as well as I could at the time.
Click to expand...


Sorry, I saw the great write up you did when I finally read the rest of the thread. I'll have to be careful on disassembly, so I put it back together correctly. I'm still trying to figure out how much to remove from the cover to avoid all the heat damage from getting the welding done... :thinking:
 
Brad-in-STL said:
Sorry, I saw the great write up you did when I finally read the rest of the thread. I'll have to be careful on disassembly, so I put it back together correctly. I'm still trying to figure out how much to remove from the cover to avoid all the heat damage from getting the welding done... :thinking:
Click to expand...



there are a number of threads on the kickstart issues, that is a BIGGIE with these 82-88 kickstarter design, very important to get the spring and pawl set up correct
take a hard look at your pawl while you have it open
 
JB is excellent when surfaces are prepped properly prepared and the JB is sealed with epoxy if the gloss has been broken. If the gloss is broke, JB will absorb oil or what ever liquid is present and start to soften.
 
If you search for my thread "Another WRX saved from the scrap heap" someone linked the Huskydoggg video on Pawl assembly on that thread (towards the later half).

Since the bike is new to you, there are two roller bearings under the clutch cover that most guys recommend replacing (kicker gear and idler gear). the kicker gear spring will basically fall out of the bike, so if you've got a good bearing shop locally, they likely have it or can recommend how to find two. The bearings are sold by ID, OD and Length, so you'll want to mic the kicker shaft OD and gear ID (or take those parts with you, in my experience, if you're not familiar to the bearing shop, they may want to mic the parts themselves). The kicker gear and idler gear both take the same size bearing. It'll probably mic a little bit shorter than it's list length.

Previously stated, but that is a mag cover. You can get cast aluminum replacement from HVA Factory, but the cost is up there. If you look at the pic of the cover on their site, you can see the extra hole in the cover near the kicker. It's not a problem to put an aluminum cover with the extra hole on the bike (but if you are able to get it repaired, and don't have particular concerns over appearance, I'm right with you on fixing the cover).

The mag covers do sometimes wear around the kicker shaft, so make sure it's a tight fit (doesn't wobble). I sent a mag cover to Rick Hovart (Husqvarna-outlet) to get that hole sleeved, and fix a hole in the cover last year, but he did take almost 9 months to get it back to me. Maybe he's less behind now? A machinist friend can probably sleeve the cover for you if you need it.

The shifter and water pump line up with the little lines on their related stubs on the engine side. That can be a pain for getting things lined up when putting it together! If you can't get the gap to close, you may need to spin the impeller and/or shifter slightly until you find a match. Probably a good idea to replace the bearing and seal for the water pump. If the wrong coolant has been used, the pump seat may have corrosion.
Also, the shift return spring can become sprung. When putting the cover on there's a hole in the gasket that corresponds with the rod coming out of the lower rear portion of the clutch cover. The legs of the shift return spring should be clear of that hole when the bike is in neutral.

Don't over-tighten your clutch.

There, that's about everything I've ever screwed up on my own clutch covers. Hope it helps!.
 
Wow. Lots of good info there. Thanks! Always good to learn from another's experiences.

Finally got back in the garage and pulled the basket out. It's 17/076. See below:
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2086.JPG
    IMG_2086.JPG
    129.5 KB · Views: 20
jimspac said:
JB is excellent when surfaces are prepped properly prepared and the JB is sealed with epoxy if the gloss has been broken. If the gloss is broke, JB will absorb oil or what ever liquid is present and start to soften.
Click to expand...


I've decided to try the JB weld fix first. I'll post an update when completed.

Thanks for all the replies!
 
Also, can anyone steer me to the thread for torque values for this '85 400 motor, for when I start to button it up?

Thanks in advance.
 
suprize said:
... usually a "new Husky owner" like I was 40 years ago will pull the kicker and the gear lever off the first time they take the clutch cover off ....then the fun begins. inevitably the kicker gets reassembled 1 spline to far and there is a hell to pay inside.:eek::oldman::naughty:
Click to expand...

Suprize, are you saying the bike is designed so that the clutch cover is the stop for the kicker?
 
Brad-in-STL said:
Suprize, are you saying the bike is designed so that the clutch cover is the stop for the kicker?
Click to expand...


what he is saying you don't need to remove them
but the kicker if removed allows the spring to unwind, which requires a proper set up on pawl and pre wind of spring
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top