• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Random Stall – a Silver Bullett or as close as we may get. TR650 Husky

DeLewis said:
Well after 1500km since I removed the AFXIED due to concern with carbon build up in the cylinder, I've reinstalled it due to repeated stalling and also, perhaps more concerningly, the propensity to ping under hard acceleration. The AFXIED cures both these issues instantly. If a software fix can remedy the issue, more the better.
Click to expand...
There is a good chance that a simple adaption reset would resolve many of the problems without resorting to the AFXIED as per what another owner reported today
 
kiwiape said:
In New Zealand we have 91, 95 and 98 at the pumps. The only difference I notice is it will very easily knock/pink on 91, no difference to the random stall or roll on/off miss was ever noted. I used 95 all the time and have tried 98 will no change noticed.
Click to expand...

We have the same octane fuels in Oz and my experience is similar, except I've not noticed pinging with 91. I use 95 mostly except when only 91 is available (country or bush). We also have BP 'OPAL' fuel in some remote areas where petrol sniffing by kids was a problem. Not sure of the difference chemically or whether is has any effect on engine performance as I've not tried it.
 
DanD said:
I had recently read that Euro fuel has higher octane then what we get stateside.
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When you're talking about fuel octane ratings (there are lots of numbers thrown around in this thread), its important to state which rating method, because you cannot compare the raw pump numbers from around the world. Australia, NZ, and Europe use RON method, while USA Canada use the AKI ((R+M)/2) method, so the numbers may differ, but the octane rating is actually the same.

91 RON = 87 AKI
95 RON = 90 AKI
98 RON = 93 AKI
 
The fuel I used was 2 gallons of 110 AKI 'Race Fuel' mixed with ~ 1.7 gallons of 91 AKI. I don't know mathematically what that would come to as an actual AKI # after blending the two fuels but was guesstimating ~ 100 AKI.
 
WayneC said:
There is a good chance that a simple adaption reset would resolve many of the problems without resorting to the AFXIED as per what another owner reported today
Click to expand...

Isn't resetting the adaptations (long term fuel trims) a short term fix? Won't whatever caused them in the first place cause them to reoccur in a relatively short time?

And there are other benefits. When lambda-shifted toward Best Power Mixture, most engines run smoother, especially at low-mid throttle and all engines run with lower EGTs (exhaust gas temperatures).
 
Isn't resetting the adaptations (long term fuel trims) a short term fix? Won't whatever caused them in the first place cause them to reoccur in a relatively short time?
Click to expand...

Unfortunately that has been my experience.

And there are other benefits. When lambda-shifted toward Best Power Mixture, most engines run smoother, especially at low-mid throttle and all engines run with lower EGTs (exhaust gas temperatures).
Click to expand...

Low to mid RPM yes. Not required at higher RPM. I think it was Quirky on the AR who discovered the standard settings for above 5,000 where
good .
 
Here is my source for the Pulstar spark plug spacer o-rings: M5x22 Viton O-Ring, 75A Durometer, Round, Black, Viton, 22 mm ID, 32 mm OD, 5 mm Width (Pack of 5). These o-rings are $12.86 on Amazon for the pack of 5. Fit perfectly.
 
Another source for the Pulstar spark plug spacer o-rings: uxcell® 10 Pcs Oil Seal O Rings Black Nitrile Rubber 32mm OD 5mm Thickness. These o-rings are $5.95 for a pack of 10 on Amazon.
 
I rode my bike to Canberra today to get the ECU updated. My bike has no booster plug or similar device, and I purchased it four weeks ago with 13,500km on the clock. It was constantly stalling at junctions as I went to pull away. I am pleased to say that the ECU update seems to have worked. I rode 400km back from the Canberra shop to Sydney via the scenic route and the bike didn't stall once. I no longer have that little blip that happens just as you open the throttle to pull away. Idle is still a bit stuttery but at least I can pull away cleanly now.
The update took about 20 mins with a few cycles of turning the ignition on and off. Joel at Dahlitz worked the machine and I have attached the final report print outs showing the version that my ECU was updated to. Next for me are the Pulstar plugs but am so pleased that the stalling issue seems to be resolved. View attachment 71639
 

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apobateman said:
I rode my bike to Canberra today to get the ECU updated. My bike has no booster plug or similar device, and I purchased it four weeks ago with 13,500km on the clock. It was constantly stalling at junctions as I went to pull away. I am pleased to say that the ECU update seems to have worked. I rode 400km back from the Canberra shop to Sydney via the scenic route and the bike didn't stall once. I no longer have that little blip that happens just as you open the throttle to pull away. Idle is still a bit stuttery but at least I can pull away cleanly now.
The update took about 20 mins with a few cycles of turning the ignition on and off. Joel at Dahlitz worked the machine and I have attached the final report print outs showing the version that my ECU was updated to. Next for me are the Pulstar plugs but am so pleased that the stalling issue seems to be resolved. View attachment 71639
Click to expand...

The report show the "prog ECU" remains the same (there have only been three versions) and yours is the latest. Do you know if the Adapative learning and Idle actuator were reset /calibrated?

My bad I as looking at the wrong line. The prog ECU has been upated thx Wayne.
 
kiwiape said:
The report show the "prog ECU" remains the same (there have only been three versions) and yours is the latest. Do you know if the Adapative learning and Idle actuator were reset /calibrated?
Click to expand...
The report shows DME programmed from 8532184 to 8543015, dash remained the same as there were no firmware updates for it, as for the adaptions yes it looks like it needs to be done and looking at getting together with apobateman to do it
 
During a heated 120k ride, the TR started surging, heres the result
A couple of pics of a pulstar plug failure after 8000k's.
IMG_6623 - Copy.JPGIMG_6628.JPG
Half of the electrode pulled out
As you can see the crush washer and thread are clean, and the plug wasn't lose. So I dont know how coil boot melted?
The gap to the ground has increased a lot and I suspect this is because the plugs are not in the correct heat range.
Buyer beware
 
PaulC said:
During a heated 120k ride, the TR started surging, heres the result
A couple of pics of a pulstar plug failure after 8000k's.
View attachment 72900View attachment 72901
Half of the electrode pulled out
As you can see the crush washer and thread are clean, and the plug wasn't lose. So I dont know how coil boot melted?
The gap to the ground has increased a lot and I suspect this is because the plugs are not in the correct heat range.
Buyer beware
Click to expand...
The heat range for the Pulstar's is correct, I assume you purchased from HiCloneQld, have you let them know about the problem ?
 
PaulC said:
During a heated 120k ride, the TR started surging, heres the result
A couple of pics of a pulstar plug failure after 8000k's.
View attachment 72900View attachment 72901
Half of the electrode pulled out
As you can see the crush washer and thread are clean, and the plug wasn't lose. So I dont know how coil boot melted?
The gap to the ground has increased a lot and I suspect this is because the plugs are not in the correct heat range.
Buyer beware
Click to expand...
yikes.
 
WayneC said:
The heat range for the Pulstar's is correct, I assume you purchased from HiCloneQld, have you let them know about the problem ?
Click to expand...


The heat range's are close but different
NGK at 9
Pulstars at 8
Thats regardless of what crossroadz says

Anyhow been there and done that, Fail and Ill let others decide.
 
PaulC said:
The heat range's are close but different
NGK at 9
Pulstars at 8
Thats regardless of what crossroadz says

Anyhow been there and done that, Fail and Ill let others decide.
Click to expand...
Paul that is incorrect, the numbers are not directly comparable been manufacturers, been that way for years, have you informed HicloneQld ?
 
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