• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE 250/310 outter Oil line protection guard.

I am thinking of the oil line Laura has highlighted. I wonder if not disconnecting it from the oil filter cover during oil changes can weaken it over time. But yeah, line 2 that connects to the case and has the stainless filter is annoying and scary at the same time.
 
Found some really strong braided hose in the basement, wrapped it around the line and secured it with hose clamps. Should definitely reinforce and strengthen things. Just hope the heat won't affect the plastic.. we'll see



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I picked up a spare line and crush washers from Halls and keep it in my kit. The oil line only runs $25 or so. Cheap insurance. Not sure how much oil one would lose if it did get ripped off and I don't carry oil with me.:confused:
 
robertaccio said:
Not trying to discount your mishap, but that is really a one in a xxxxx number failure.
We constantly get mishap reports in and need to do investigations that lead to no action,,,,,or some action to minimize risk or even total redesigns depending on failure trends.
The number of 250/310s in the world that have done this is probably 1 (again that doesnt discount your personal issue, dont take me as a jerk just doing the risk math without true numbers data)
As for our x-lite external oil line (less is more, engineering) no need to have more engine case material for internal oil passage runs (thats the idea). I'm sure thats why we have this, many friends point to it immediately.
My "fix" bulletproof mod, would not even have stopped this ripped off issue. My mod is a split fuel line hose secondary doubler cover ziptied over the whole thing from the back of the fittings to just protect the line from impacts and or sharp cactus or branch pokes (we also do alot of bushwack rides).
I did see that the CH Racing factory Husky 250/310s all have had filter cover guards (same like Clay's type) over them for last few years, so they addresssed some of the potential issue, racing=minimize potential failure/damage spots=bullet proofing.
Anyway again we are all sorry for that one big $$$ mishap, but I would chalk it up as one in a mil thing but would do everything to minimize that risk . Hose doubler, good coverage skid plate with possible addition of filter cover as outlined above. (Good post-oil line torn off sucks!!)RN
on my machine good coverage skid plate
IMG_0326.jpg

CH Racing "factory" WEC racer with oil filter lower hose cover
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on my machine line cover/doubler. (most of it anyway) before I installed the heavy skid plate.
IMG_0289.jpg
Click to expand...
I did all the same bullet proofing mods onto my 2013 TXC310R, See above for oil line split fuel line hose doubler zip tied on, simple and looks good too.
In addition since then I have a zip tie that pulls the hose in. It's attached to the frame just above the engine mount flange and is just a simple long ziptie that holds the hose in closer to the engine case, plus I added a Enduro Engineering guard to the lower section, its the same type that the factory racer used (see the race bike foto).
 
I would think that pulling the line in towards the engine case with a zipty would be helpful. I even thought about trying to install an eyelet under the coolant drain plug with a hole for a zipty. Anything to keep the line from getting snagged and torn off. Poor design from the factory...
 
perhaps not the best hose layout but its a design thought driven by making the lightest engine. If they ran the oil through case passages they would needed more material. Also in real world racing looking at the platform history the hose failure issue is non existant. Even among us here it was a "crash" damage issue anything can fail during an impact incident. Have we seen any other fails besides the one 2010-2014 TC250 TXC250 TXC310 TE310 and TE250?.
A good solution to external oil hose would have it clamped closer to the cases and like shown before maybe routed differently as well. It is what it is, ride the machine, bullet proof what you got, and dont crash into and through things............
 
I’ve had this failure as well on a 2014 TC250. The top banjo bolt came loose and it pumped all the oil out. No signs of impact on the oil line. I actually think it was a boot that hit it while kickstarting. Expensive lesson learned. I also have a TE310 that I keep a close eye on. I safety wired the banjo bolts to help with potential loosening. I like the guard options, but I think I’m leaning towards rerouting the line. Either back around the timing chain adjuster or possibly better yet, go forward behind the skid plate then follow the frame up and then come over the top of the valve cover. With one of the guards protecting the oil filter and lower banjo bolt, that would keep the line completely protected.

Any thoughts on whether routing it this way would affect oil flow? Is the oil pump strong enough that routing it up high wouldn’t affect the pressure?
 
Won't affect oil pressure.

Will take slightly longer for oil to get to the head on startup, saying this though there will still be residual oil in there from previous running, unless its after a tear down/ rebuild which would have assembly lube on it anyways.

I wouldn't be overly worried about the issues from re-routing the line and oil delivery problems, although I reckon the best alternative is a solid hard line.
 
A solid hydraulic tubing line, hand bent to stay close to the cylinder sounds intriguing. It would need to be removed every time the filter is swapped though. May not be a big deal with hydraulic flared fittings though.
 
Flared stainless pipe with JIC hyd fittings will take numerous goes at undoing-doingup before leaking.

Only issue I can see is a hard pipe will not allow much flex which possibly could put strain on the oil filter cover??

Agree with the easier/ and possibly cheaper option is to make it longer.
 
stretchrcr said:
I’ve had this failure as well on a 2014 TC250. The top banjo bolt came loose and it pumped all the oil out. No signs of impact on the oil line. I actually think it was a boot that hit it while kickstarting. Expensive lesson learned. I also have a TE310 that I keep a close eye on. I safety wired the banjo bolts to help with potential loosening. I like the guard options, but I think I’m leaning towards rerouting the line. Either back around the timing chain adjuster or possibly better yet, go forward behind the skid plate then follow the frame up and then come over the top of the valve cover. With one of the guards protecting the oil filter and lower banjo bolt, that would keep the line completely protected.

Any thoughts on whether routing it this way would affect oil flow? Is the oil pump strong enough that routing it up high wouldn’t affect the pressure?
Click to expand...

This is not the torn off hose crash damage issue or even a failure at all, you had a banjo bolt come loose, that is a maintenance issue, or an OEM torque issue, nothing failed. (not a broken bolt, leaking hose fitting or stripped threads etc)
 
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