• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

What is your Spoofer Plug experience?

Your spoofer experecne

  • Adapted in less than 5000 miles

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    37
Has anyone actually put the AIT sensor in the intake tube? To read real AIT and not the air before the filter. Just curious cause its what i plan to do with the pod mod.


I did, as soon as I understood & measured the airbox temperature, the cable needs to be extended, 2 wires, soldered, heat-shrink etc, I'll post a photo later
 
Whoops on it's side

The other is $2 clear plastic fuel filter from Autobarn, l use as the crankcase vent, the bowl faces downwards, any oil will drain back into the crankcase
Quite a bit of air pressure is noted at the outlet
 
I've been seriously testing the 11 ohm resistor inseries with the re-posistioned AIT
With what l thought reasonable results, nearly 30 litres of 98RON consumed
Then suddenly the engine started to vibrate & really not well
Aha, l thought the ecu has done it's adapt out
Today l took the Safari tanks off
What did l find?
Both Head frame bolts had come loose !
Fortunately the RH Safari tank had prevented the bolt being lost
Tomorrow another Dyno run to see if performance has settled or the ecu has adapted out

I'm testing the AIT, it doesn't appear to be linear, at "normal" ambient temperatures
 
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I was thinking more on the lines of this.

port_system_picture.jpg


Actually tapping into the intake hose to get true intake temps.
 
Has anyone actually put the AIT sensor in the intake tube? To read real AIT and not the air before the filter. Just curious cause its what i plan to do with the pod mod.


My final 'fix' on the AIT Sensor story is to extend the wires and have the sensor in the air intake box - It lies in the lower part of the box quite nicely with the wires fed in through the drain hole at the rear of the intake.

mini-IMG_1588.JPG

With the sensor in this position it measures pretty close to the real temperature of the air entering the engine, particularly at higher running speeds.
I then have my $1 Variable Resistor Spoofer wired in and the whole thing works a treat - I can have real air temp or spoofed as much as I like to make the bike run well.

Remember to plug the original AIT Sensor hole with something that can not be drawn up into the airbox - I used a replacement rubber chair leg foot, having bought a pack of four for another $1, this is becoming an expensive mod :D
 
Alex, I'd be more than happy to share my mapping with you folks. You can buy the PCV tuners for around 300-400 pending where you are at. Loading the mapping is pretty simple and easy to do. You then unplug the OEM o2 sensor. I installed the autotune AT-200 with mine, Powered the autotune right off the factory 02 sensor, so it's fused and comes on ONLY when the motor is started and running. This is not necessary, but a great way to monitor your afr values. You can also add the POD 300 to adjust your mapping right from the machine as you ride. So if you wanted to Cruise and get 15.0 afr to achieve 60 MPG. So be it. You want to hit the offroad and have the power on demand, richen it down to 12.7-13.0 range and it's all there.

I guarantee Absolute success, You'd throw those spoofers in the trash faster than you could install them!!

OR. GO get the Moss reset... spoof again... repeat.

VE table tuning is the only way to achieve proper results over the whole RPM range (especially off idle and past 6750 rpm)


VFORCEJOHN... If you are still hanging around this forum, I recently acquired a 2013 TR650 Strada from a friend and it has all of the stock problems with stumbling off idle, etc. Are you still in the business of helping folks like me figure out what's needed with the PC5 and maps to get this thing running in top shape? Many, many thanks...!!
 
VFORCEJOHN... If you are still hanging around this forum, I recently acquired a 2013 TR650 Strada from a friend and it has all of the stock problems with stumbling off idle, etc. Are you still in the business of helping folks like me figure out what's needed with the PC5 and maps to get this thing running in top shape? Many, many thanks...!!

There hasn't been anyone playing around with PCs/ spoofers etc since the ECU upgrades following the official recall.
Contact your nearest KTM dealer with your VIN number to check if your ECU has been upgraded or not.
Which country are you in?
 
VFORCEJOHN... If you are still hanging around this forum, I recently acquired a 2013 TR650 Strada from a friend and it has all of the stock problems with stumbling off idle, etc. Are you still in the business of helping folks like me figure out what's needed with the PC5 and maps to get this thing running in top shape? Many, many thanks...!!

Yes I am. I've been trying to reflash this ECM. the PCV like all the spoofers, after time it goofs up. I've dynoed, mapped, datalogged and mapped. split tuned between gears. and eventually it runs crappy again. THen it runs great again.

heres where I'm at. I need pinout connections to read this with a bench flash like KTAG. I've spent DAYS AND DAYS trying. heres where my research has stopped.

with ECM access. Immobilizer goes off, and we tune it properly with proper lambda targets. this shouldnt be as hard as it is. however I seem to choose all the machines that are impossible and have been discontinued.

I'll keep trying. I know no one that can flash these.

any help anyone can assist with. PLEASE email me Vforcejohn@yahoo.com
husqvarna marelli ecu opened and labeled.jpghusqvarna marelli ecu opened and labeled backside .jpghusqvarna marelli ecu label.jpg
 
Yes I am. I've been trying to reflash this ECM. the PCV like all the spoofers, after time it goofs up. I've dynoed, mapped, datalogged and mapped. split tuned between gears. and eventually it runs crappy again. THen it runs great again.

...

any help anyone can assist with. PLEASE email me Vforcejohn@yahoo.com
View attachment 104134View attachment 104135View attachment 104136


Thanks for the reply. After deciding I am in no way capable of going down the road you're trying with the stock ECM, I bought a Power Commander and Autotune module. However, I'm at a total loss on how to access the connectors around the throttle body to plug in the kit, short of disassembling the entire subframe and removing the fuel tank... which of course is where everything in the kit is supposed to be mounted. Any tips?
 
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