• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

What is your Spoofer Plug experience?

Your spoofer experecne

  • Adapted in less than 5000 miles

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    37
Mine cost me $1 for the parts locally here in Philippines - Obviously it will be different elsewhere, but it is still the cheapest and most variable method of having a spoofer.
This set up also allows the ECU to revert to default simply by dialling out the Variable Resistance and giving a direct signal from AIT sensor to ECU.


Hello sir, help me get a few from you. give me a pm or text 0917 7705282 and I'll invite you a literal Cafe Husky we're working out
 
Hello sir, help me get a few from you. give me a pm or text 0917 7705282 and I'll invite you a literal Cafe Husky we're working out


Hi Jimbean - my version used a variable potentiometer to give 11 ohms, effectively reducing AIT temperature by approx 16degC
My TR is significantly different from stock
GPR exhaust, Pod-mod, AIT repositioned, Denso Iridium Plugs, exhaust cavitation plate, quick action throttle, ss oil filter, etc etc
What works on my TR might not necessarily work for others
If the Husky airfilter had been more effective the need for the Pod-mod would not have arisen
The Pod-mod significantly changed the airflow past the AIT, which influences the ECU & fuelling
So how do we overcome those challenges?
 
This is the very reason l moved my Booster Plug temperature sensor as far forward as possible. As l found out that slow moving in traffic or stopped, the engine heat was leaning out the fuel/air mix & the bike would stall. With the Pod filter mod there is virtually no air flowing across the air temperature sensor. ideally, the air temperature sensor could be mounted where the air filter used to be, completely in the air flow

Can you show a photo that helps explain the lack of airflow past the air temp sensor? If intake air isn't flowing over the air temp sensor, and it was much hotter than the air entering the throttle body, that could lead to altered mixture adaptation values.

Resistors in series aren't a good answer for reasons I've described many times already. But relocating the air temp sensor, inside the intake manifold, to an area where in gets full intake airflow is a good idea.

Trz_charlie, have you done the pod mod?
 
Yes, Pod mod has been in place on my bike since 500 miles. My AIT was relocated directly in front (read, nearly touching) of the Pod filter or nearer to the old filter door.
 
$1

$1.95 Jaycar Electrics, l'm thinking Booster Plug ait, as l've already repositioned both ecu ait & Booster Plug ait well away from engine heat
Fun experimenting
The Booster Plug still allows the ecu to revert too default


Finally, after much testing l used an 11 ohm resistor soldered into one of the AIT leads, the AIT is now re-positioned to the very front of the motor measuring the ambient air temperature, minus the resistor, the AIT effectively reads a temperature 16-17 degC cooler than ambient

Well done for thinking of this
 
Can you show a photo that helps explain the lack of airflow past the air temp sensor? If intake air isn't flowing over the air temp sensor, and it was much hotter than the air entering the throttle body, that could lead to altered mixture adaptation values.

Resistors in series aren't a good answer for reasons I've described many times already. But relocating the air temp sensor, inside the intake manifold, to an area where in gets full intake airflow is a good idea.

Trz_charlie, have you done the pod mod?


The AIT is located behind the Pod-mod, l was measuring 53degC directly with my thermocouple at the AIT location whilst in traffic, ambient temperature was 30+degsC

My AIT is now located in the air inlet, forward of the radiator, less influenced by motor heat

I've now done considerable dyno time, 3 test rides in of 200klms each, & another planned for today

The bike is running so much better

I'll wait & see if the ecu adjusts, the meantime l'm enjoying the ride
 
The AIT is located behind the Pod-mod, l was measuring 53degC directly with my thermocouple at the AIT location whilst in traffic, ambient temperature was 30+degsC

My AIT is now located in the air inlet, forward of the radiator, less influenced by motor heat

I've now done considerable dyno time, 3 test rides in of 200klms each, & another planned for today

The bike is running so much better

I'll wait & see if the ecu adjusts, the meantime l'm enjoying the ride

Mixture adaptation is a fact and the way these ecus work. However if the pod mod results in the IAT sensor measuring something other than the temperature of the air entering the cylinder, that is bad.

Your goal is not that the IAT is accurately measuring ambient temperature, but that it accurately measures the temperature of the air entering the cylinder. If that air is being heated above ambient, then that's what your IAT should indicate.

So at idle, in traffic, if the ambient is 20C what temp will your thermocouple measure? Is that what your IAT now indicates to the ecu?
 
It seems to me the best way to spoof the IAT sensor would be a variable resistor or some way to set the temperature to the actual outside temperature. You would have to set it every time you ride and need a separate thermometer to get the actual temperature each time.
 
It seems to me the best way to spoof the IAT sensor would be a variable resistor or some way to set the temperature to the actual outside temperature. You would have to set it every time you ride and need a separate thermometer to get the actual temperature each time.


With the AIT positioned as far as possible in front of the radiator it will be reading closer to ambient air temperature
Both the Pod-mod & more free-flowing exhausts have changed the characteristics that the ecu was designed for
It does appear that the bikes are sold to meet the most stringent of the European & Californian emission regulations
ie very lean, our mods tend to make the engines even leaner, to the point of detonation or excessive heat, stalling & stumbling
Now, I'm only experimenting, researching & learning more about the systems
So far, on my TR, the 11 ohm resistor in series with the re-positioned AIT seems to be giving fairly satisfactory results
I've been out on the road regularly & have consumed 30 litres of fuel, over 700klms, I have not noted any degradation of performance
Which one could expect as the ecu adjusts/adapts as mentioned in numerous previous posts
As soon as I do, I'll run further Dyno tests to compare with previous test results

When I first purchased the TR I fitted the Booster Plug to successfully cure the lean-burn & stalling
The Pod-mod brought with it more challenges

If the Husky had manufactured a better air filter & airbox & mounted the AIT at the front of the bike, then none of these mods would have been necessary
 
Well I just installed my AF-XIED and did an ECU reset, won't get to ride it till tonight when I go to work. I will report my results, and if I'm happy with it I may have a used Wuka-King for sale soon.
 
Well I just installed my AF-XIED and did an ECU reset, won't get to ride it till tonight when I go to work. I will report my results, and I'm happy with it I may have a used Wuka-King for sale soon.


How did you go? The middle of winter in the UK right?
What settings did you start with?
What other mods do you have? (exhaust, Pod-mod, other ?)
 
I have the UNI filter on my bike but it's otherwise stock, any effects I had from the Wuka King went away shortly after installing it, still stalling, hesitating and slow to start. I set the AF-XIED to #7 but won't be riding until later tonight.
 
Has anyone actually put the AIT sensor in the intake tube? To read real AIT and not the air before the filter. Just curious cause its what i plan to do with the pod mod.
 
I have the UNI filter on my bike but it's otherwise stock, any effects I had from the Wuka King went away shortly after installing it, still stalling, hesitating and slow to start. I set the AF-XIED to #7 but won't be riding until later tonight.


I'm not saying going to 7 won't help but the real differences happened on my AF-XIED at setting 8
 
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