BEAU SHELBY
Husqvarna
C Class
2002 WR360
decomp head (came fitted by PO, luckily for my knee as the kick starter is less than ideal)
rebuilt crank, rod and all bearings replaced, replated barrel and new piston (expensive rebuild but the bike is the last of its kind so I had to do it, also it was cheaper than buying a new bike so i could get that past the home finance dept)
FMF gnarly pipe with std silencer (flattened original pipe in the forest , consider TC silencer if/when I wreck the std one)
boyesen reeds with cleaned up reed block filler & carb rubber mount (lite version of WB mod, has some top end now)
Steahly 10oz fww (which helps spread the top power for forward motion, instead of useless wheel spin)
Mikuni TMX carb with Power Now Plus (new slide, jets and needles fitted but cant get a new main needle jet so still not running ideal, considering Lectron next as they seem to be the answer but my Mikuni float bowl is almost touching the cases currently so does the lectron fit in OK)
I have had to replace the external plastic connector rod on the power valve as the lower ball end wore out from dust ingress.
Sump guard, frame guards, radiator guards, rear disc guard & hand guards, renthal bars, pivot pegs. (recommend the pivot pegs if you have bad boot sole wear and feet slipping off the std pegs, huge improvement but expensive)
terminator clutch cable (not that much difference over std cable with decent routing in my opinion)
worn clutch basket rattle is on to do list, still getting all the parts as they are hard to find and expensive to get in NZ.
replaced throttle cable and carb end cable adjuster when if found the cable fraying on the bend part of the adjuster.
applied Selleys "knead it" epoxy onto the swing arm where the mud flap saws into the alloy and removed the ridge off the flap also.
3M scotch bright scourer pad in the bottom of the air box slot to stop dust and crap getting in but still drain water out.
I taped off the rear guard to the side panels and air box to stop a lot of the dust and crap getting thrown into the air box by the back wheel.
filter skins over the filter to allow for easier cleaning of the filter.
drilled the rear link and fitted grease nipples to kept the bearings lubricated.
A shock service is also on to do list.
14-46 gearing for a mix of single trail to fire roads.
tried one of those UK Race discs on the rear to get rid of the std jingling floating set up but it only lasted 2 short rides and was worn worse than the original after 10 years.
had something break the top off of the rear brake light switch hydraulic banjo bolt and ended up with no brakes. fit plain type banjo bolt.
drilled a small drain hole in the bottom of the swing arm near the chain adjusters so water gets out and I can spray CRC/WD40 in on the adjuster.
generally very happy with bike as it is light, has good power and reasonable handling/suspension. starts well now everything is fresh again.
parts supply and cost is my biggest issue in NZ
Had to soften the front end as it was just to hard on my dodgy shoulder ac joint.
It does feel long and has restricted steering lock which is often on the stops so I have to do a lot of back wheel steering to get thru and around things in the tight going but it is Ok everywhere else.
PS my other bike is a IT465 so that is my reference point for comparisons.
my son has ridden the 360 and compares it favourably with his updated 2006 GasGas EC300 saying the handling is OK and it has much more low end grunt but not the top end of his bike.
my 2002 wr360 is about to be revived , will put pics up when finished hopefully this weekend