I must have the new map in mine, because it was super lean with the "kit" installed. It didn't want to run right like that and I had to richen it with a POWER COMMANDER. As it gets time on it, it seems to be getting slightly richer.
Ummm.... As soon as I can get to my dealer (Bend Euro -site sponsor) I'll have 'em check which map is installed. I re-installed the O2 sensor and plugged it into the connector in place of that Power Up plug, left the Arror Pipe on. Now the bike runs lean (slight hesitation) and occasional "pop" on deceleration. But the plug looks better and the bike pulls good on any acceleration. I rather run this way to avoid the carbon build up until the Power Up (non-O2 sensor) map is solved.
Running lean can cause more engine damage than running rich and getting some carbon buildup in the exhaust.
Fast1, You're right...both ends of the A/F ratio can cause damage. Lean can cause heat stress if allowed to go too hot. I have FX Effect temp strips on the radiator to monitor. One of the hidden problems of carbon build-up is as that carbon flakes off during running and those specs get "hammered" between the exhaust valve and its seat, that causes pitting and premature valve/seat wear. (kind of like dust entering the intake). Especially true for titanium valves. Let's work with the guys that are solving this problem and force Husky to solve it too.
Nope. What do you think I'll find? Is there an effective gas additive that would clean away the carbon build up in the combution chamber? Beyond that, I hope we all find a solution to the EFI issues through this tread.
The 09' CRF's cough and die in technical situations also. I saw one at the Wickenburg enduro cough and die twice on a switchback section. So you are not alone. TW
How many of you guys are running the exhaust insert / s.a. ? I've found a huge difference in the way my bike runs with it in. My bike wasn't as lean with it in, but it ran a lot better with it out. It died more with it out until I installed the POWER COMMANDER and fattened it up some. Now, with the insert out and fattened up, I have a minimum amount of stall, but I'd like to make it totally go away. I've got some EVO MX tank foam to try and see if it will help, just not sure when I'll get to try it. Actually, that makes me feel better.
Yoshimura sez the flameout is most often caused by an over-rich low-speed condition. Two fixes: a] adjust idle up to 2000 or so, b] lean low-speed map in the 1500-1800 range. They have a ton-0-experience with EFI on their racing rice machines and this is what they've found.
Can anyone give feedback regarding the difference of: Running a PC that has been dyno'ed vs. the new ECU updates? Which one is the clear choice? I would think a PC dyno'ed is hard to beat, but have no proof.
Stalling is not OK, is it ? Just confirming this stalling problem on my new 08 TE 450.....You guys are much more knowledgeable than me about Huskies, but the stalling has me POed to the max. Of course my bike is 100% stock, so no excuse for me (as in defective bike) BUT riding the bike yesterday got me a little concerned. The bike is so tall that a stall in a tough section will often mean a fall......almost like riding trials...and fall onto big rocks could mean a stupid injury.... Anyhow I cannot understand that in today's technological knowledge, a moto company can put out such a bad EFI system. I know the US DOT has a lot to do with it, but come on Husqvarna, get with the program. From what I have read so far, I am still really confused because there seems to be no way to solve this problem 100%. PU kit, PC III, 09 map ??? no single answer I guess. I am no spring chicken anymore, 50 years old, 160 lbs, 5'11" and a solid B rider in New England, but that TE 450 kicked my ass yesterday in the woods. Stalled at every obstacle, water crossing, tree stump, deep rocky rutted uphill...never lifted 260lbs and never pushed an e-start button so many times in my 35 year riding experience. I'll say it took a lot of the fun out of riding. To avoid the stalling I just threw the bike against the obstacle at high speed or I rode with the clutch pulled in. I felt I was a noobie on his first ride...very humbling. If I ride this bike with my buddies, they will laugh their asses off and tell me to join AARP...... I think I'll start with a PU kit and go from there. I do not think I can ride a bike that stalls that much though. Just not in my nature...read type A personality. Almost reminds me of the 3 miserable years I had trying to learn golf.....great game but very frustrating. Finding a reputable dealer in my area is also a all new level of challenge, but that is a nother story...but a real story.
Is the bike broken in, i.e. 5-600 miles? They will stall more as they heat up during break-in. George (Uptite) said that tuning them when they are new like this is nearly impossible because of the heat issues. Have you done the PU kit, throttle stop, etc.? I imagine so. You need iBeat ™ to set the TPS etc and a good dealer.....I'm not sure that Motofit (assuming) is that good dealer and not sure how far away a good one is. My bike died a lot when breaking it in. It will still occasionally flame out on deceleration after a 55 mph (7500rpm) run on the asphalt. It's been on the iBeat twice. Once when brand new and then once after installing PU kit. For my TE 250 the numbers were 100.6% on FB1 and 100% on FB2 and FB3. Each model seems to have considerably different numbers that work.
My bike is only a 250 but it does not have this problem since breakin and Arrow pipe. Occasionally, if the terrain is really tight or technical, I'll raise my idle by turning the screw a little and it takes all the stalling away. I don't if it's different for the 450's, but I'd definitely get through an easy break-in, add the arrow pipe, and raise the idle a little before making judgement.
Quasimoto; I feel your pain, brother. I agree about the heat, it's a really issue. The "kit" helps. Install the kit and if you have a dealer that can adjust it on the iBeat with the kit, then ride the crap out of it because they do get better as they break in. That's a good place to start. Have the dealer set the FI to the fat side if they can, or get a PC and do it yourself. That probable helped the most on my bike. Much better throttle response and it runs a little cooler. I also went a step colder on the plug, because heat seems to be the biggest problem with these bikes. Also, set the idle at 1900-2000rpm and you may as well fix the fuel pump while your at it, because it will come loose and complicate the tuning, by adding to the stall problems. There are a couple of threads on fuel pump issues, check them out. My bike is a 510, but I felt there was also one other major problem that kept it from being a good woods bike, and that's the hi compression or lack of flywheel. The two together just don't make a good low rpm woods motor. Since heat is already an issue, and compression makes heat, I went with the lower compression. Also, the fact that there's no easy way to add FWW. Adding the SMR counter balance might be the hot set up? That has been the single biggest improvement toward making this an enduro motor. It runs night and day better in all aspects. It actually seems like it's more powerful with less compression. It's even nicer on the street, and it runs way cooler. I'm sure it will even last longer, too.
From what I have read so far, I am still really confused because there seems to be no way to solve this problem 100%. PU kit, PC III, 09 map ??? no single answer I guess. I don't know where you get THAT from.. There's alota people with wonderfully running FI Huskys.. I'm one of them. If you really want no worries, throw it on a trailer, bring it to George and have him "tune" it after the PU..Then go try it out in Baja.. Thats what I did hahaaaha. I know.. not practical for everyone. I know motofit doesn't have a great rep, try Wagner in Worcester ma. They supposedly have great service and really know what they are doing with tuning ALL the bikes they sell. Once it's tuned it should be nothing but joy. And THATS not really a big deal either. It's just KNOWING where to go. Just like with pretty much ANY OTHER brand of mechanical toy. There's places and shops for ANYTHING that are allover the map. From not being able to find their own a*s with a map to being "magicians". Just need to do a lil research to know the difference. I feel for you though, with how hard it is to handle the way it is right now though. I go places my big 610 I probally really shouldn't and between the weight and height IF it does stall, in alot of situations I'd just hafta "abandon ship" and get as far away from her as possible and let her go down without taking me as well. For now, does turning the idle up help out at all.. Like 2K??? Anyway, good luck and hope it gets staightened out for you and she becomes as enjoyable for you as she should be..
It ran great as well before the tune..A couple of flameouts in the first couple hundred miles that I didnt expect, but after that, very well. ANd that was 100% stock.. well.. except for missing the canister/tip cup on the side.. .. I ran it like that for about 800 miles, then added Georges slip-on. ran like that for about another 800 miles than made it to SoCal and had George do my first service and rest of the PU. Since then it runs GREAT, instead of great . And up until about about 3,500 miles it seemed like everytime I rode it it got stronger and stronger.. That feeling seems to have leveled off. A couple thousand miles ago I would have never thought that with how heavy the front is on the 610 that 3rd and sometimes 4th gear power wheelies would be so easy with the stock gearing...Can't wait to gear it down a lil. And she runs very smooth with no flameouts. My biggest problem now is trying not to act like such a hulligan on her on the dirt and unmaintained roads close to my house... EDIT.. just want to be clear about the "tune" .. In my case by George, it was just the ibeat adjustments. No power commander..
