I replaced both clamps with high end hose clamps right after I got the bike. It back fired and blew the throttle body out of the manifold, a long way from no where. The vaccume fitting has been replaced with a screw and sealer, just like a carb versions use.
I will have to have one before long, there's no way I can stand not trying it. I really feel like that's the way to go with these FI units. I've been thinking of trying the stock ECU's sensor and adjustment logic with the PC3's over ride capability and seeing what sort of results I can get. Only problem is not knowing anything about the stock ECU's logic.
Bingo. And that logic can and will change over time. I'd drive to Dynojet personally but do not have a bike for them... and that is a fairly large expense with fuel & lodging factored in.
Seems like the OE logic is a "work in progress", too. Hmm, now here's an idea! I can drive out and let them use my bike and get a free unit. Lets see, a trip to Vegas and back would only take me about a week and cost a couple of grand.
Firmware changes are the future. I hope everyone was aware of that with efi. I have zero inside info but have experience on other products. A whole nuther level of things to keep track of, and with each of those changes comes progressively more permutations e.g 2008 TE510 with ___ firmware, 2009 TE310 with ___ firmware, 2008 TE450 Euro bike with ___ firmware... then consider PC 3, 4, 5 combination's... and JDs products and and and... The fun is just starting - EFI just came out.
Finally got to try my bike in a race today. Things went better for a while, until the bike start to heat up. Then it started to pop and die, again. Not as bad as it has been, but it finally did one in a really bad spot and dumped me rubber side up on a muddy creek bank. Enough to pretty much trash my day, because I like to never got it up and going again. With this I've desided to try closing the loop back up to see how it acts. My theory is that it's pretty good until it heats up, then it needs to lean back a bit. Sounds like a catch 22, but I think the O2 sensor might be able to correct for that as long as it doesn't cut it back too much. And hopefully the PC3 will allow me to offset any over adjustment. Only thing I don't know is if this will also alter the ignition map, with the sensor back in. Anybody know for sure?
Unless something is wrong with your bike the PCIII without the O2 sensor will be able to optimized the fuel setting. If you leave the O2 sensor installed and make adjustments with the PC, at some point the ECU will think the O2 sensor is faulty due to the expected relation of injector pulse to AFR is too different. Another point to keep in mind is that during quick throttle changes, the ECU switches to open loop. The delayed response of the O2 sensor would make it difficult to keep could acceleration performance. Remember that the function of the O2 sensor is for emission requirements and not power. The stock O2 sensor will cause the bike to run at 14.7:1 AFR except during rapid engine change. The idle AFR for max power will be around 13.2:1. With the PC you can effectively adjust the map for excel and decel conditions by the relation of throttle position and RPM. It would be nice if the PC for these dirt bike applications would allow for timing adjustment, but they don't.
You got it. That's pretty much what it's trying to do. I hooked it up and rode to work this morning, which is only about 3 miles and I didn't think I was going to make it. About a 1/4 mile from work it leaned down to the point it almost shut the fuel off. I just hope it didn't do any damage to the piston or head. So, that means you're the official EFI guru. Guess this means I've got to get a PCV with auto tune.
What about a Dyno run and adjust of the PCIII, won't that be the hot ticket? The PCV is going to run just about that when you add the O2 sensor part of the kit.
That's what I was thinking, it would make the PCIII work like a PCV w/ auto tune, but it's working like seymore says. It's just keeps shutting off more fuel because I'm asking it to be richer than the sensor thinks it should be. The ride home was worse, I assume because it was much warmer than it was in the morning and started leaning out sooner. I was popping like crazy from the "get go". I guess that's just the way the ECU logic works with the sensor in.
I have known about the PCV for 18 month and was waiting to see how well the autotune system worked. In additional to autotune it has the built-in feature of monitoring the gearshift sensor to use different maps for each gear. The gearshift option can be implemented if you add the "multi-function hub" accessory to the PCIII. Don't forget the autotune kit is a $250 add on to the PCV. I'm not convinced that the PCV autotune will work as well as making maps from dyno runs for offroad applications. I think a problem could come from difference between street bike and dirt bike (wheel spin) tuning conditions. If you tune on a dyno you have known load conditions that can be repeated for fine tuning. Another option I have used is to temporarily install a wideband O2 data logger with TPS and RPM inputs, go riding, review the data and make map adjustments based on AFR data. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lm1.php
I'm hoping this PCV system will work for a guy without a dyno. I'm down to trying this or switching it over to a carb. I just can't seem to get anywhere racing it like this.
Most of us don't have a dyno either. Are any of these Dynojet tuning centers near you? http://www.powercommander.com/powercommander/TuningCenters/Default.aspx?State=Indiana edit: It looks a few are within 3-4 hour drive. I may be worth a few calls to see if they will run your bike. It will usually save you few $ if you mount a street before showing up.
My bike did the big backfire and blew the throttle body out of the manifold again. Sounded like a shot gun blast and died. I hit the starter a couple of times then realized what had happened. I was about 5 miles from the truck, no tools and what might as well been the rocky mountains between me and the truck and it was 93 degrees and sunny. There was no way I could get the bike out or drive the truck to it to get it. I walked back to a spot with some shade, sat down and wondered how I was going to get out of this. Bad part was I didn't even have any tools at the truck, so walking back seemed useless. I did have my keys with me and found one that fit the slot in the hose clamp fairly decent and wasn't important enough to worry about breaking it. Seemed like forever in the hot sun, but it took about 30 min. to loosen the clamp, get the FI back in and tightened down. Needless to say, I went straight to the truck, loaded up and went home.
I've never heard of a twin cam Husky blowing the carb or throttle body out of the manifold, that's normally a cam timing or ignition timing issue in my experience, not a fuelling fault... Just thought I'd throw my 2 cents in! Dave
This is the second time it has done this. The first was right after I got it. I replaced the stock clamp with a NORMA worm gear SS clamp and thought that problem was solved. Best I can tell the cam and ignition timing are right. I took the top end down a few weeks ago and lowered the compression, so I reset the cam timing when I put it back together. Seemed right when I pulled it down and seems right now. I've been thinking about a trip to Hall's, but that's to get a two stroke. If I took the 510 right now, I don't think it would make the return trip.
