• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

New FI tuner on my SM 630

Brutha,

You said when you richened your green/blue it made on/off throttle response much smoother.
How high is your green/blue setting compared to your green setting?

I set my green blue setting to 1 full step higher than my green setting and my bike is still pretty jerky during on/off throttle transitions.

Ketek,

When you were on the dyno could you see at about what RPM red kicks in? My bike pulls stupid hard from about 4 to 6k RPM but then loses steam. I figure this is when I get to the red zone...

rjdenya,

I calculated it out and I have more than twice the throttle body size. But as you pointed out perhaps placement of the holes is more critical.

Just for everyone's info, if you ignore the snorkel hole, if you drill six 3/4" holes that is about equivalent in area to a circle with 45mm diameter.

I'm going to put take apart my bike and put the unit on my handlebars so I hopefully I will have some good numbers in a few hours :D
 
HuskyBrutha said:
Timing, timing... it sits in the back of my mind that we have no control over that.
It could very well be the missing link.

I also have the EU ECU on both my SM and TE.
Click to expand...
timing really plays the biggest role in what quality of gas you can/need to run. i guess if JD says you can't hurt the bike going full rich or lean with his tuner, there isn't a lot to worry about, just be on the lookout for pinging while playing around. lesser quality gas may mean richer requirements.
 
rocko said:
Brutha,

You said when you richened your green/blue it made on/off throttle response much smoother.
How high is your green/blue setting compared to your green setting?

I set my green blue setting to 1 full step higher than my green setting and my bike is still pretty jerky during on/off throttle transitions.:D
Click to expand...

My JD Settings are:
Green - 4/5
Yellow - 5 (have not experimented with this zone at all)
Red - 6 (very little experimenting done here)
Green/Blue - 4
Yellow/Blue - 4/5 ( too high, should be max 3)
Red/Blue - 6

Other relevent information is:
PU Kit Yes
ECU European
Altitude above sea level: 1600 metres.
Average Winter temperature: 14 degrees Celsius
Winter Humidity: zero
Average Summer temperature: 24 degrees Celsius
Summer Humidity: low
Fuel grade: 95 RON
 
So I tried Ketek's settings since he has been on a dyno, and they were an improvement but I added fuel in the red zone to see if I could get more power and I did :D

I might be able to get more power if I open my airbox more; I'd be interested to know the throttle body size and the size/number of holes in the eddy seel replica bike's airbox to see what throttle body size/intake holes size ratio they went with.

Mods:
ECU - USA SMS
Airbox - maze removed, snorkel removed, 3 square inches of holes drilled
Power Up - yes
Lambda Sensor - no
Exhaust - Leo Vince full system
Elevation - 100 m above sea level
Average Summer Temp - 75F/24C
Average Winter Temp - 50F/10C
Fuel Grade - 91 Octane

JD Settings:
G - 4
Y - 5/6
R - 6 (going up to 6/7 didn't seem to improve things)
GB - 3/4
YB - 2
RB - 8
 
I tried not to stray too far away from how JD had the tuner setup. Except for the red/blue setting. That's the critical one for curing the SM's lazy throttle response.

Strange... my bike is the first I've seen that was a bit too rich right off idle. Maybe the dealer over-tweaked the settings in ibeat when the power up was done. Who knows?

I'm starting to think that the over-rich setting just off idle was contributing to the "lugging" feeling that the bike had to begin with. Now, with just the smallest twist of the throttle, the bike will jump off the line. Before, it would not respond aggressively at all. I'll bet I can go back to 14/38 gearing from the 14/40 I'm running now and not be disappointed at lower speeds...

Mods:
ECU - USA SMS
Airbox - maze removed, snorkel removed, 4 holes drilled
Power Up - yes
Lambda Sensor - no
Exhaust - Stock
Elevation - 3500 feet above sea level
Fuel Grade - 91 Octane

JD Settings:
G - 2/3
Y - 4
R - 4/5
GB - 3/4
YB - 4
RB - 8
 
I had some lugging when driving in traffic now. After lowering the green setting again it got better. 4/5 was too much I guess...
 
rocko said:
G - 4
Y - 5/6
R - 6 (going up to 6/7 didn't seem to improve things)
GB - 3/4
YB - 2
RB - 8
Click to expand...

This is where I ended up, except I'm at 6/7 on the Red because I've opened up the mufflers to flow-throughs.

USA SMS ECU
PU
Airbox maze and snorkel removed, added 5 1" holes
Flow-through mufflers with ~1.7" exits
1000-3000ft above SL (depending on where I go riding)
93 Octane (BP or Mobil only)
 
rocko said:
So I tried Ketek's settings since he has been on a dyno, and they were an improvement but I added fuel in the red zone to see if I could get more power and I did :D

I might be able to get more power if I open my airbox more; I'd be interested to know the throttle body size and the size/number of holes in the eddy seel replica bike's airbox to see what throttle body size/intake holes size ratio they went with.

Mods:
ECU - USA SMS
Airbox - maze removed, snorkel removed, 3 square inches of holes drilled
Power Up - yes
Lambda Sensor - no
Exhaust - Leo Vince full system
Elevation - 100 m above sea level
Average Summer Temp - 75F/24C
Average Winter Temp - 50F/10C
Fuel Grade - 91 Octane

JD Settings:
G - 4
Y - 5/6
R - 6 (going up to 6/7 didn't seem to improve things)
GB - 3/4
YB - 2
RB - 8
Click to expand...

I adjusted the red zone first and I think it showed the biggest improvement in power. The other zones I changed gradually until the hesitations went away. It runs great now with the same mods as above.

G-4
Y-5
R-6
GB-5
YB-5
RB-6
 
After buying my SM630 I really haven't been impressed. I deporked the bike of all excess weight, drilled holes in the air box (10, 1" circles) and did the power up mod. Other than running better and a little more power, I wasn't really impressed. I saw this thread and decided to give the JD a shot. Amazing. First time I ever pulled a wheelie on this bike. It runs so much better and pulls through the entire tach!!!

My settings:
G - 4
Y - 5/6
R - 6
GB - 3/4
YB - 2
RB - 8

Plan to play a little more with it.
Exhaust should be here this week and I'm going to drop a tooth in the front sprocket.

This is a great product!
 
Hi All,

My JD kit arrived today so I need to start thinking about initial settings. This thread provides excellent information but I wouldn't mind knowing whether these are still the settings you are running.

As far as I can see 8 members have provided their settings, with the ranges being:
G 2/3 to 4/5, most common 4
Y 4 to 7, most common 5/6
R 4/5 to 6/7, most common 6
GB 3/4 to 5, most common 3/4
YB 2 to 5, most common 2, but the rest all between 4 & 5
RB 6 to 8, most common 8

YB seems to be the setting with the largest variance - any idea why?

My bike is a TE, Arrow pipes & ECU with standard air box for now. I might start with the most common settings above and go from there, unless anyone has a better suggestion.

Thanks,
Russ
 
Russ said:
Hi All,

My JD kit arrived today so I need to start thinking about initial settings. This thread provides excellent information but I wouldn't mind knowing whether these are still the settings you are running.

As far as I can see 8 members have provided their settings, with the ranges being:
G 2/3 to 4/5, most common 4
Y 4 to 7, most common 5/6
R 4/5 to 6/7, most common 6
GB 3/4 to 5, most common 3/4
YB 2 to 5, most common 2, but the rest all between 4 & 5
RB 6 to 8, most common 8

YB seems to be the setting with the largest variance - any idea why?

My bike is a TE, Arrow pipes & ECU with standard air box for now. I might start with the most common settings above and go from there, unless anyone has a better suggestion.

Thanks,
Russ
Click to expand...

The YB changes when the JD unit goes from G to Y. If you have it on 1, you will basically shrink the time the unit is in G so it will go from GB (idle) straight to Y. Or if you have it on 8 you will make the time the unit is in G mode longer and so the unit will go straight from G to R.

If you don't understand what I'm saying there is a good picture of it on the last page of the instructions for the JD unit.

I mounted my JD unit right on the handlebars; this allows you to see exactly what the JD unit is doing at a given time and will help you see when it transitions through the various modes.
 
Green (low range), 3/4
Yellow (mid range), 4
Red (top end), 3
Green/Blue (idle), 3/4
Yellow/Blue (green-yellow transition), 4
Red/Blue (accelerator), 4/5

2011 TE630 w/these mods:
  • PU kit
  • airbox labyrinth removed
  • Leo Vince full system
The settings I have are what was pre-programmed from the factory. I want to tweak them; I just haven't had time. Based on what I've read here, I should probably start by turning Yellow/Blue down some and Red/Blue up some, huh?
I also have the EHS pre-filter kit that I haven't installed yet, which will probably mean adding some more fuel. Maybe a little more Red?
IMG_1828.jpg

Thoughts?
 
jtemple said:
I also have the EHS pre-filter kit that I haven't installed yet, which will probably mean adding some more fuel. Maybe a little more Red?

Thoughts?
Click to expand...

Maybe, maybe not. The motor can only ingest so much air (40 L/s at 8000rpms)...once it's getting however much it can use, making more available won't do a thing. And even if it can use more, it's only at wide-open throttle, max work load, and max RPM that you get more horsepower.
 
If you are tuning with the JD in 40 to 50 degree temps you will require a slightly richer setting than during the summer at 80 degrees. In addition elevation has an impact so you have to realize that others that posted settings may be at different elevations and temp ranges, all of which impact your tuning.

Without the EHS I'd try it with the JD set as delivered and then go up to 3/4 on red. Then try 4 on red.

Are you running a sparky in your Leo? This will also impact your settings.
 
Fast1 said:
If you are tuning with the JD in 40 to 50 degree temps you will require a slightly richer setting than during the summer at 80 degrees. In addition elevation has an impact so you have to realize that others that posted settings may be at different elevations and temp ranges, all of which impact your tuning.

Without the EHS I'd try it with the JD set as delivered and then go up to 3/4 on red. Then try 4 on red.

Are you running a sparky in your Leo? This will also impact your settings.
Click to expand...

the EFI is temp compensating and still will be with the JD.
 
Fast1 said:
If you are tuning with the JD in 40 to 50 degree temps you will require a slightly richer setting than during the summer at 80 degrees. In addition elevation has an impact so you have to realize that others that posted settings may be at different elevations and temp ranges, all of which impact your tuning.

Without the EHS I'd try it with the JD set as delivered and then go up to 3/4 on red. Then try 4 on red.

Are you running a sparky in your Leo? This will also impact your settings.
Click to expand...
Spark arrestor, yes. Db killer, no.
 
Question for those with the JD mounted where you can see it...

What zone is the bike in at steady highway speed...say, 65-70mph? Green, Yellow, Red...?
 
Depends on throttle position and RPM. If you are cruising at a steady throttle opening at that speed it will most likely be in green but will change to yellow pretty quickly if you open the throttle up further. But of course this is how it is with my Y/B setting.

There really is no substitute for being able to see it in real time as you ride...I highly recommend mounting it on the bars. The unit is weatherproof according to JD himself.

Plus it's pretty cool to see the LEDs sweep from left to right on startup at night time....kinda knightrider-ish! :D
 
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