All good. Looks like there really are different length lines used. THere are TWO brake lines around the front in the ABS version. One line goes from the Master cyl. around the steering head, turns into a fixed steel tube and continues TO the ABS unit. That's the short one. In fact, it's so short that I can't even force the bars to right lock with the master cyl/ lever unit mounted ~1.5" inwards on the bars, making it sit just at the edge of the cranked bend. This isn't peace of mind...it's just simply too short. The hos The other line running parallel comes FROM the ABS unit and there are no issues at all as it's not affected at all by any risers/ bars etc.
The locally made screens came good, another superbly finished piece of work Shape was taken off the little plastic cover, the top extended according to some older screens laying around. It's mounted in place of the plastic cover at the moment, but I'll make up some pairs of spacers of various length out of some cheap high-density PolyEthylene rod for different rakes and stand-offs (similar to the Madstad bracket idea for the V-Stroms). Got one screen for playing with/ cut down/ re-shape/ etc ...the other as a backup if/ when I goof up. Some old PE tubing I bought yonks ago to cut "upper chain rollers" for the Aprilia Pegaso from re-emerged from the shelves. Aprilia charged A$38 for a ~40mm long piece of this stuff...admittedly, it was black, though. And came in a nice plastic bag with a sticker on it. Looks like they're still the same for the Huskies...OD is identical, so I guess the ID will be as well. Check for it behind/ inboard of the rear brake fluid reservoir...your chain might've already worn into the white roller material. The tank needs to be removed for renewal, so it might pay to have some material in the garage one can quickly hacksaw a piece off any time the tank has been removed for other work). Once the chain has worn through the material (approx 5mm wall thickness), the chain will grind the metal sleeve the roller is bolted to until it's cut off the frame.
Some small seat-mods. Shifting the "lip" of the pillion-step ~35mm backwards with a straight line rather than convex, extending the rider-spot for a bit more backwards-room. Narrowing the crown in the front and rounding off the sharp-ish angle to get better "tank"-grip and adding a small wedge of 12-15mm foam to flatten out the front in order to remove that vague "sliding-into-the-tank" feel. (NOTHING like the BMW 12GS, but still noticeable) The white-ish areas show the worked areas. Ready for the cover to go back on Done, changes are just about undetectable Looks like one hell of an "ERUPTION" is going to hit the place soon... Said it before and can only repeat myself: A HUGE THANKS to all those who've spent so much time and effort in finding out things, dream up those fixes, did them on their own bikes and then sat down to document it all in words and brilliant pics. The same goes to "Coffee" for not just being involved in all the above, but also provide this place for everyone to ask, share their ideas and weekend-labours and weld-together a little community. BRAVO!!
You better make a deal with you-know-who, there's already a bag of cables (also ordered a 2m HDMI yesterday) to go with that Digital Projector, which is big enough to fill a full-sized topbox. Still got enough foam to mod one more seat (but mine will stay HERE!!) Takes ~3 hrs from pulling 100s of staples to shaving the foam just right, matching the tapers, re-stapling the cover and stretching out any folds in the vinyl. THe Eruption? No sweat. Just put the Multimeter on it to check I'm getting the same values as with the other 2 sets. All good. Bike kicks up fine, no errors. One's ready to plug 'n play, need more heatshrink for the other 2 sets. Still waiting for a partial refund from Arrow Electronics, they charged me US$51 for the postage (gulp!!) See ya for breakfast in Devonport soon
How many TR650s will we have there next month? Definitely 2 Terras with me and Rob, how many Stradas?
Here it's been cold since November. I have had mine Eruption in and going since then. I haven't had the opportunity to run the bike in weather warmer than 40 F (4.5 C) and all I have seen is the little snowflake on the gauge. Can't wait for a warm day to wring my Red Headed Mistresses neck a bit! BTW, great write up on the seat.
No idea if Peter (Doonap/Twowheeler) will bring the Strada, mine still isn't registered nor do I have any luggage for it....looks like it'll be you and Rob holding up the flag.
Thanks for poking the head through the door Bouncing between 70-110F over here lately, snowflakes just don't stand a chance Then again, bike is still unregistered so I can't really try out things properly.
Mission: Foldable levers! Touratech's got a foladable-tip lever and Nev told me about his adjustable version of it. http://www.touratech-usa.com/Store/...er-BMW-G650X-TR650-F650GS-Dakar-G650GS-Sertao Being a tightarse and hesitant to spend A$110 incl. postage, I had a moose-around the bike shops last Saturday. Reckoned, if I can find a lever with a straight arm and a foldable tip, I'll hacksaw both, mix'n match, drill a few holes and got myself an adjustable lever with foldable tip in exchange for a happy Saturday afternoon in the gagrage and a couple of coldies. Yo...that one sort of gives some optioons. Being steel, I can belt the bejeezuz out of it and straighten out that arm before cutting it off. 20 bux (with the "Pete"-discount) might look horrendous to you US/CAN folks....but it's CHEAP over here!! Getting ideas....the XR400 lever is a little too long and too straight (hits the engine case)...no surprise, really. Original and "play-thing" Hmmmm...instead of just cutting off the front bit after straighteining it out, how about muscling the thing into shape? Some creative bending and forming after the 2. beer sealed the deal...and the spline seems to be the same fine-toothed one on the Husky, YEEHA!!
Nope, I'll be on the Bender (which is a K1300R for those who don't know what that is). I'll be picking your brains on the Strada tight brake line, as it's no doubt well explained here but I'm a bit slow on the uptake - one look at yours & I'll get it. I've got a Nomadic rack coming & will be going the Rotopax fuel-route.
An old piece of 35mm pipe comes in handy, bending the lever arm around a 22mm socket. OEM and copy sitting on top of eachother...I love it when things go well Another beer while watching the paint drying.... Best part....I can still cut the front half off and make an adjustable lever out of the OEM unit any time. Can't beat $20 jobs.... (pic shows the $20 Honda lever in the "up" position, holding it at the "stop".) Could even weld in a brace, there's enough clearance to the engine cover for a 1/2" brace through the guts of the bend to make things pretty much rock-solid. Couldn't be bothered though....I'll quickly make a fresh lever if this one bends to the crapper. Cheers (Oh...best thing?....Now got a Honda 10mm hex on the bolt and it's from above!!!... rather than the stupid Torx25 from below, crouching down to floor level to see the thing from floor-level)
Had a good fiddle with that one and got things sort of where they should've been in the first place....also turned out that the brake-line was crooked and twisted ~60deg ex factory, the banjo on the master-cyl being rotated when the banjo-bolt was pulled, twisting/ buckling the flexible part of the line around the steering head. Coaxed the rigid tubing from back under the seat, slightly re-routed the whole affair and got around 40mm length out of it while rotating the banjo into the correct position at the same time. No doubt it's an Italian....my old Aprilia days are coming back to the fore. Nomadic rack ? Will google for that one, thanks.
Finally a bit more time to get back to the Husky... Not wanting to finish up with the same problems others have had and test the "warranty-willingness" of the previous AUS-importer re: top-end rebuilds etc. I finally pulled the finger out and got cracking on the Pod-Mod this afternoon. Once more a huge thanks to those who've done all the hard yards, coming up with the idea and ways of how to do it...THANKS!!! Marking out....deliberately trying to work to straight-ish lines and retaining the top-edge of the airbox....eventually I'll find a soft foam-seal for the gap left by the fine-toothed hacksaw to deal with the increase of induction noise after the "operation". Shows up the "Eruption" quite neatly, too. The solid rubber flange/ seat/ seal/ spacer etc etc....all-in-one. Had some ideas of modding that instead of removing it, but it'll finish up with a too-small-an-attachment-lip for the elbow/ joiner. So I tried to keep the bottom lip of it for a firm seat and hold of the airbox-casing. A sharp chisel. Great de-burring tool and making things easy as a pry-bar when cracking the final bits of the airbox after the hacksaw-job. One I prepared earlier....rubber profile to join the 2 airbox halves after the job is done. All variations failed dismally, material too strong and stiff to comply with all those molded air box-profiles. Trying to cut the rubber flange...lift airbox-base off the TB as far as possible, lube the seat of the "doughnut" with WD40 so the whole thing can be rotated on the TB-flange while the bottom of the airbox is off the flange as much as possible (wedge timber strip/ screwdriver-handle between tank and left bottom edge of airbox for best separation). No chance to lift the whole doughnut out! Grab doughnut with rag and rotate while using a scalpell (flat handle!!) to cut the rubber Got the top off, neatly TB-flange isn't tall enough for a clamp....gotta cut the bottom disk off the doughnut as well....more wd40, more rotating (this time with pliers as the material isn't strong enough after removing the top section). That should be just enough neck-section of the TB to get a clamp over solidly. The rubber doughnut's base section is still in place and the airbox seated firmly, without touching the fuel-rail....all's good.
The remaining base-rubber is flush with the bottom of the airbox A 12mm/ 1/2" wide clamp fits the neck neatly THat's it on that score for the day, waiting for the actual filters to arrive to then buy materials accordingly. Done a few weeks ago....alum holding clip for the front ABS brake-line joiner, as that was moving around each time the bars went side-to-side....over time, the end of the rigid brake tube will fatigue and crack. It's made from 1.5mm alum sheeting and located by a tongue that's forced through a slot in the weld of the steering lock retainer-neck. Tongue shows to the upper left in the pic. OEM airfilter compartment
Found the opening for the draintube by poking around with a wire. The hole is behind the lip that the OEM filter sits against...dremel away the back of the lip and the soon to be installed Crankcase breather pod with have a ready-made drain. (will extend the clear tube for easier access, though). Having looked at the various options, I'll use a straight bit of silicone tubing to connect a PVC elbow, rather than using a pre-made silicone elbow. FWIW, it'll give the chance for a more solid grip/ fix on the TB-neck, using "liquid-gasket" silicone as well as the clamp to hold things in place solidly without the need to remove/ re-do it come time for a filter-clean or change. The clamp above, holding the PVC elbow will become the "service-connection", rather than the more fragile TB hookup. Looking at the obviously idiotic airbox labyrinth, there's no way this thing was designed with any common sense or scientific background, but rather on a Friday afternoon "let's get the hell out of the office, Luigi". Any "venturi-effects" or " induction-flow-design" were drowned in vino rosso and a plate of Marinara. Any change will be an improvement!
Modding the OEM airfilter bracket for possible use lateron. Could perhaps make a pre-filter one day It's hard to get a drill into/ near the OEM filter compartment for a hole to fit the crankcase breather pod....but a hot 80W soldering iron does the trick neatly. Juuust big enough to fit the grommet tightly which is going to become the "holder" for the double-barbed connector, joining breather hose and pod. The grommets are leftovers of the V-Strom farkling...anything that fits, will do. Found a piece of Polyethylene foam, self-adhesive strip, 3mm/ 1/8 thick and about 40mm/ 1.5" wide as a "seal" between the 2 halves of the air box lid. Not enough as a proper seal, but certainly good enough as a "noise-killer". It's stuck right around the edge of the "service-cover", half its width on the inside, the other half on the outside of the cover. Will see if it stays stuck to the Poly Prop cover, can glue if I have to. Once more the soldering iron is used on the left side of the airbox, near the base of the IAT sensor, to create a drain-tube for any possible over-enthusiastic use of filter oil lateron. There isn't much space nor width to place the hole as low as possible in the case while still having a flat surface for the grommet to seal firmly. The molten PolyProp welts around the hole are quickly shaved off with a sharp chisel. Again, the grommet provides a firm seat for the brass-connector. Looks like all the 6229 and BP13 UniFilters have gone to the US lately....it's been a 10 day wait thus far to get them in Melbourne. Doesn't matter...more stuff to fiddle with...like trying to convert the front sprocket cover into something looking like the BMW X-country version, allowing straight access to the oil-filter.
Excellent write up. The BMW X-country counter sprocket cover is a mod I want to make as well. I don't want to use the Husky provided torx wrench and have to fiddle with getting that stupid cover off to change oil mid trip. I have been googling around trying to find the X-Country CS cover but no luck yet. Trying not to pay retail prices. Did your foam strip work for dampening the sound from the air box? It's amazing that some things on our bikes are so well designed but others almost seem an after thought.
