I an torn between getting the staintune or the GPR single can. I will make a tank or go for a safari tank.
Just so ya know, the GPR single system has a very healthy bark to it with the DB Killer in. Way loud with it out! But it is a well made full system (no Cat in mine).
...and it won't stop there. A mate has a 32l (7gal) Safari on a DR650. Riding that bike when the tank is full is like riding a rodeo-bull at full tilt. :-) Definitely needs some beefed up front boingers and other suspension work. By which time the rear comes into it and presto, there's $2k+ on top of the tank It's not so much that it's all sitting up high, but all the extra weight is sitting over the front end.
The SWM Quicklock rack main brace uses the last 2 solid mounting points (subframe mounts), the factory rack just hangs in fresh air out the back. No support, no brace...and a flimsy plastic rack of ~2mm thickness. The 3 decent-sized mounting holes in the suspended/ cantilevered plate are an invite to bolt on something inappropriate with "massive bolts"...and all that. An invite, B+B fell for... as usual. Don't get me wrong, I certainly admire the B+B stuff!! But ONLY!! for it's manufactured quality. More often than not, their basic engineering ideas of how and particularly WHERE to attach their goodies to on any given bike is just plainly ridiculous. I've seen their bashplates bolted to a massive bracket, which in return was bolted to 2 tiny 6mm cylinder head studs in the V-Strom650 !! Their TR-top-rack is the same...the beautifully -made, totally over-specced plate is bolted with 3 massive M10 to the flimsy plastic top, which in return sits in fresh air. The weight of the 5mm thick plate alone will break the flimsy substructure sooner or later, doooh! Things are not a good match and it's obvious why the previous owner stuck to the Moteck side-racks, but sold me the B+B plate without any comments...but for a bargain price! We've got things to fix.... The neatly bent outer edges are hitting the OEM-rack Marking out....blue dots for new and extra holes, red markings for 3 possible lines-of-cut to create 2 "tongues" to the bent with a hole in each, mounting on top of the Quicklock crossbrace. Getting some longer bolts of the same kind will be a drama on its own, I guess. After it was all said and done, a new set of 3 holes 2" further back (bringing the whole plate 2" further forward towards the seat), bolts were sourced at an industrial supply in the suburbs and the front mods/ cuts produced two solid mounting points. The bent sides were slightly bent straight again to create clearance to the OEM-rack, the resulting 2 front "wings" bent downwards to comply with the shape of the OEM rack and still have area for luggage to sit on, as well as keeping the slots along the edges for tiedown-straps etc. Couldn't pick it up from the powder-coaters on Friday.... Monday it'll be then. Now the plate will have 2 solid mounts at the front, bolting into the bike's subframe...I'll still use the 3 bolts through the OEM-plastic....and there's provision to attach 2 mounting arms facing forward to the 2 other OEM-rack mounts, if needed.
Another "item of bother"...the EWS-error as a result of broken wires/ contacts to the ignition lock antenna. Having peeled the plastic-cap off the ignition lock, there's another cap-like cover around the top, which seems to be a lot harder/ impossible to pry off (at least, with the ignition lock still in its usual place) This 2. cap appears to be the code-pickup antenna, receiving the code from the chip in the OEM-key and transferring it to a transponder/ reader/ verifier, which in return passes the "All clear" (or NOT!!) to the ECU....the reason for the 1 second delay between hitting the starter button and the starter motor actually cranking, methinks. The antenna wire leads into the headlight-shell and is pretty stiff and rigid....not your standard cable. The wire is also held by a tiny cable-clip (horse-shoe-type) in the ignition lock itself, most likely to protect those rigid/brittle connections from bending and flexing/ vibration. Playing around the headlight shell or removing it for mods or after a decent stack/ front-damage can easily lead to broken wires of the pickup-antenna which means an instantly "dead" bike. The stiff antenna wire in the head shell....cable-tied to the front alum brace. A good search on the Zadi Q933 series of locks didn't bring up much, but I'm sort of familiar with the Honda HISS system and the Suzuki equivalents, the same principles will apply here. The basic idea is to unplug the Husky antenna and leave it in place with the rigid cable untied for room-of-movement....using a separate antenna and an original key to have permanant "code-verification"...and use a $5 copy to actually do the job of starting/ locking etc the bike. The Silca blank... Ebay provided a $12 Honda CB400 HISS ring-antenna for playing around with....in the mail. I'll post the results. I couldn't find the ignition lock diagram in the parts pdf and all documentation on the net indicated that a complete, new, ignition lock incl. antenna ring would be needed, no separate antenna available. Which, at least in Australia, costs the usual bomb!
Interesting stuff. Once you have everything niggled out I would like to link this on the "TR650 Stupid Questions" thread at ADV.
Is that spare key the same transponder technology and can it be cloned? I want to put the spare ring antenna and clone key in my airbox. Leave the stock on as is. I'm waiting on my spare key from Husky to use as my trial and error key for cloning. There are a couple companies that say they can clone it, but need the key to check the technology to be sure.
Same idea here...the Silca blank in the pic above is just a plain key, no chip. As for a chip-ped key... I'll check our locksmith on Monday, Husky key in hand. They do a lot of duplication work for the local automotive mobs and are able to tell within minutes if they can read the Husky key. I also want to leave the OEM antenna in place, tapping the wires of the feed and using the second antenna with chip for the permanent bypass. Airbox? Sounds like a good place! If the locksmith can help, I'll get a spare made right away, then cut the blade off (once it's confirmed it's working) and use the chip-ped top only.
BMW makes a harness with a test ring. The harness places the ring under the seat. I ordered a non chipped key from a dealer online and supplied them with my key code that is on the original key ring. I think I will try and find the harness and give it a shot.
That sounds interesting. Question is if the "test"-ring is just another antenna (needing a chipped + coded key) or contains some sort of override code to negate the need for a chipped key? The Silca blank as above is a standard key blank kept in stock by most locksmiths. No key-code needed at all as it's not chipped. Been using it for the seat-release as well as steering lock etc. Turns all the locks fine but of course the dash comes up with the EWS error.
Some 1.6mm (1/16th) EPDM rubber sheeting to prevent noise through vibration...and possible chafing against the plastic OEM rack. Plenty of clearance of the bent-edge now Flush mount on top of the SWM cross-brace, using 10mm (3/8th) longer bolts. Very neat job by Cobra Powdercoating in Bayswater/ Melbourne Eastern Suburbs. Down-turned front "wing" to principally follow the angle of the seat to still retain a half-decent pillion perch without the top-plate "biting" into the bum. Still easy access to the Quicklock bolts to attach/ remove the racks in seconds. If it turns out that even more stabilty is needed, the 2 "front-wings" are already slotted and the front 2 OEM-rack mounts within 4" reach ...a couple of narrow, strip-style brackets bent to suit are quickly made and bolted on. SW-racks and B+B plate...a sweet match now!
Quite some height difference... Engine oil-drain and Pod -filter oil drain (just disregard the cable, which leads to a powersocket installed in the fold of the left side-panel.) Not intended, but the shot shows the clip that secures the IAT pretty clearly
And just to give our US-friends an idea about some Husky spare prices in Oz Here's a quote from Halls for some front-end plastic bits... the 2 fork-guards, the 2-piece front fender with cable clip and a small brakeline guide with bracket. US$58.50 (let's forget about the ridiculous "special handling" post charges for a second and just stick to the parts prices) Identical parts from the local Outer Melbourne Husky dealer, MINUS the brakeline "ring and cable bushing". Yes, I KNOW the $ isn't one-for-one, but at 92US cents/ 1AU$ it's close enough to forget about with price discrepancies in the 300-400% range. And all that apart from the fact that the stated 3-4 weeks waiting time will most likely blow out to 3-4 months. C'est la vie...
Cannibalizing a Honda CB400 HISS antenna ring, details here: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/ignition-transponder-bypass.43485/ ...and rigging it into the Husky connector just above the headlight cross-bar no EWS ERROR resulted when using the OEM key in the Honda antenna and starting the bike with an un-chipped/ un-coded $5 key. Found some connectors on Ebay which EXACTLY match the connectors used on the bike (check for SUPERSEAL-connectors on Ebay). The OEM plug (of the OEM antenna) "bagged" and sealed , new extension prepped and plugged in. There aren't too many places on the bike where the Honda antenna with a key "inserted" can go and be near dust/water/vibration- free to never cause trouble. Picked a spot in the airbox, which has some protected space now that the PodMod was done. Fabbing a little alum-bracket to sit neatly in the airbox to prevent any possible damage to either antenna ring/ elec. contacts or the key itself. The little rubber-foot sits on the floor of the air-box. Also, the key has to be removable for servicing/ removal of the air filter. The cable is routed to just outside the airbox, another connector showing just along the side of the box to the left of the key. This way the entire airbox can be removed from the bike for servicing without the need to cut cables. Edit: Info as to the OEM Husky chipped used. The actual chip appears to be a "Texas Crypto, 6E-80 TX-MA"
Cable routing from the headlight shell, piggybacking a 7mm flex-tube onto the existing OEM item. A good time to throw in an extra pair of wires for later use...and that's the "transponder key bypass" issue out of the way (for me). . Time to button things up...on go the plastics...in goes the pool filter sock treated with a few sprays of filter oil as a pre-filter. ...which leaves a half-hour to dinner to play around with another idea of making an alum brace to mount a tank-ring for one of those Bags Connection tankbags. This could be a goer...at least something to play with. Catch ya later
