Round two of the "other" carb types - Lectron

Don't you have a smart carb?

I have both but this is the Lectron that i've been using.

Did it do the same thing with the Smart Carb or stock carb?

Stock yes but smart not as bad.I just replaced the head with a modded head i had done up for me that only produces 190 psi instead of the 220 so i'll give that a go and should get rid of it.I know i'm jetted perfect by how perfect my plug looked after the last ride.The tuner that did my new head said at 220 it would be very hard to loose the knock with out 50/50 mix with av gas.

Trying to fix a problem caused by too much compression for poor quality fuel by changing carburetors makes no sense. Raising cylinder pressure makes more torque/horsepower but also requires better fuel. If you have to de-tune it to keep it from knocking then why do the mod to begin with? I'm puzzled why anyone would spend a thousand dollars on mods and then cheap out on fuel trying to save a few dollars. BTW there are dozens of other reasons why race fuel is worth the extra money besides preventing knocking but it would take dozens of paragraphs to explain and has already been addressed in various fuel threads.(which I recommend you read)

Well i bought the bike with the head already on it for your info so i had a proper head done up for it now.As for changing carbs to solve this problem was not my intensions at all it was to see how these metering rod carbs perform.Sorry for striking a nerve there Doug and as for the reading i think i'll just stick to my poor quality fuel and cheap out?

If your KTM is in stock form and is between 2000-2012 then it requires RON 95 or PON 91
http://www.ktm.com/uploads/tx_downloadsplugin/Kraftstoffempfehlung_02-2012_EN.pdf

You said; "My bike is a ktm 200 with a modded head producing 220psi and when the bike worked hard i was getting your typical decal knock associated with high compression heads?I thought these metering rod carbs were suppose to atomize the fuel so fine that this wouldn't happen?"

My answer is buy better fuel because it's not ok for any engine to knock.

No nerve struck here I'm just trying to save you from hammering out a piston, ring or rod bearing.

I've only run cooler temps with mine anyone gone from 30-40 temp difference without adjustment

I've ridden mine from 25 to 65 at the same elevation with no adjustment (didn't even change the idle!) and no issues. A little less crisp in the cold maybe, but still ran fine.

so far I've ridden in as cold as 11 degrees and and high as 60 degrees, but not in the same day. Worked great though and I have no adjusted it since the first ride.

While down south temps varied from 45-75 and elevation from 900' to 6500'. Ran perfect through that variation.

We were at 40 degrees in the am and 70 during the day. Altitude when from 3000 to about 5500 -- no jetting related issues at all. The best thing is that there was nothing to worry about. Idled nice all day -- ran strong. Very smooth. Confidence inspiring. Really like it. The only time I noticed anything other than optimal was after folling my kiddo around for an hour in 1st and 2nd it took me about a few seconds to clean the bike out. Other than that -- flawless.

Thanks everyone winter's dragging along upper miss.river bluffs won't be long before humity returns

That elevation pretty much covers everything I plan on riding. Although, I'd love to hear an update if you go higher! (10k?)

It will only be another 2 plus months before we go that high.

Where will you ride at more than 10k. Just wondering.

We have a couple of rides that pass through 10K. They are actually mid-July rides.