TE 250/310 xlite starter issues...

Maybe try a different battery...

Im the same as you I think the decomp gap isnt the issue, something else is failing when hot, mine tries to turn over but feels like weak starter but brand new, I doubt its the solenoid on mine but I have an old one I could try as pretty generic and why not put a big screwdriver across the contacts to try as easier!!

Ok reduced decomp gap to 005 and tried to repeat failure.

It starts easy when cold and turns over v fast but when its HOT i.e enough for the fan to turn on it can cut out on tickover and then not fire when cranking starter, i have to wait 30s a minute, 2mins, 5mins for it to fire, sometimes it tries at the beginning briefly but then nothing and just keeps turning, i fear in my race this happened and i just drained the battery but after a 10-20 mins the battery made it fire and had no trouble if i let it rest just u cant do this during a race.

SO, im going to try a new plug and see again but dont think this will cure it

ANY OTHER OPINIONS THANKS?

Im trying that one now as reduced to 005 and starts good, get hot to put fan on and cut out on tickover and wont start.

Gunna get hot and let it cut out n not start then remove plug on sensor

Question, can i run the bike like this after warm up as unable to get part till next week and have a race?

YES ITS MY TEMP SENDER, CAN I RUN UNPLUGGED AFTER WARM UP?????

My starter solenoid/relay is on its way. More background. Shorai lithium iron battery new in August, 2013. Battery tests 13+v off, 14+v engine on, during estart drops very momentarily to 9.75v. All ok I think. Iridium plug. Lots of fire when shorting across the starter posts.
Yesterday, street riding only, had difficulty replicating no start condition. After a mile in 3rd at 9,000 rpm, one time, intentional stall, as opposed to kill switch or key off, no estart until shift to neutral and delay of a couple minutes. Do not believe fan was ever on. When no estart, no effort, no turn over at all, no grunt, no click.

Prior to valve adjustment summer 2013, had a bad day on trails, much stalling and estart failure, all prior to injector upgrade. Later in summer bike refused to start either way. Valve adjustment, all better. Then new TXC injector/ecu, battery, and plug, even more better, but still have this lingering issue.

I suppose that the starter relay is solid state rather than mechanical, and wonder if internals can be heat damaged or otherwise fail. Googling around suggests that this can happen with relays.

What does temp sensor do? For efi? If so, how would that tie in to estart? Is there a testing protocol?

The real solution is just don't kill the stupid bike, but I ain't there yet.

When it gets hot for fan to come on then it can pop and stall, then wont restart till cooled, i unplugged the sensor and started straight away, new sensor/sender on its way job done hopefully.

Try yours mate

Thanks. I am starting to feel like a real mechanic--swap out parts and pray. I can say that I don't think the new tire is related!

Also bridge the gap on solenoid with a screwdriver so powers up direct

I had a solenoid go on a bike and it just stopped working full stop btw

I carry a spare temp sensor on my 630 and sounds like I need to have one on hand for the 310 as well.

Lucky you . Starter number four looks like being starter number five after it failed again today . All replaced under warranty . Not happy . Did not have a problem until the Aus distributor recalled the bike . Driving me crazy

My starter is fixed now and it looks like my woodruff key was the problem. It may have been caused by a loose nut when my brother and I took apart the starter.

Turns out it wasnt the temp sensor more the fan sensor, im presuming the in-line fan sensor lets the ECU know the bike is hot also and changes fueling, i unplugged and no more bad starting when hot!

I replaced the temp sensor as was given one anyway and will just leave the fan one unplugged for now as ran like a dream!!!

It's been said before, but worth a reminder. The Woodruff Key can't really be the problem, just a symptom; it's only function is to position the flywheel. The interference between the male and female tapers does all the work. If the tapers match and the flywheel is torqued properly, they may as well be welded. So, make sure the flywheel nut is tightened properly (no guessing) and if it comes loose again lap the tapers to make sure they engage properly.

I have found once the flywheel starts to slip and shear off the woodruff key, it advances the Ign timing at idle and makes the motor kick back.

Auto-decompression spring replacement.
So my new starter relay is installed. While warming up bike to check it, solenoid clicked and bike generally started when hot with fan on. A couple of times it failed to estart, but relay clicked. I turned it off, then an hour later motor refused to start, was bound up. Nearly impossible to kick it.
Turns out the decompression spring broke. Fished out the broken piece. Bike turns over nicely with spark plug out, so I assume no valve issues.

The question: Is there a way to replace the spring? It is on a pin which appears to be pressed in to the camshaft. Will determine tomorrow if springs are available.

2012 TE310 starter issues redux:
Short version. Bill's in Salem, Oregon had new flywheel and worm gears in stock. Original gears significantly worn. After a fairly hard test on the periphery of the Desert 100, seems to have fixed the e start problem.
Longer version. My VIN is (lots of letters)...000189. I have mixed info as to whether this bike was subject to a service bulletin.
Originally, brand new, e start was fine. Would not kick start. Not enough rotation on kick lever. Moved lever forward one spline, ground away part of foot peg for additional clearance, worked fine. I have not otherwise heard of this problem.
As it became harder to start when warm, did all the easy fixes, most of which, at the time, seemed to marginally help: tight exhaust valve with repositioned auto decompression spring, lithium-iron battery, iridium plug, more slack on enrichener lever, lower idle speed, rewound heavier duty starter, lighter oil (Mobil 1 0W40), replaced burned out starter solenoid, #4 gauge wire battery ground to motor (which reduced voltage drop).
In retrospect, I over used the e start due to the 4 port fuel injection problems resulting in many stalls. Replacement with the 12 port and associated ecu was a plug and play fix. Again, Bill's had the parts, and he correctly predicted that it would transform the bike. Near the end of this saga Bill shipped me an oem starter which he had had rewound for more power, on approval. Pretty impressive. If I tried it and kept it, pay. If not, pay shipping. I kept it, if only to avoid potential orphan parts status.
Bike now has 893 miles and 52.3 hours. It is a tremendous bike when it works, but very disappointing that it has taken so much time and money to sort a new bike. If it was my only bike, or I was on food stamps, it would drive me nuts.
Finally, Bill and Bryon at Bill's Motorcycles Plus have been outstanding; personally accessible, thoughtful, parts in stock or readily accessible. Thank you. For example, during this saga, the auto decompression spring on the exhaust cam broke mid-coil, which no one has heard of, and they came up with an as new modified cam at a reasonable price.
Is there a basis for a claim against the manufacturer? I think so. Is it worth it? No. The ownership transition, the small dollars involved, doing all my own work, all mitigate against legal action. But it would be fun to pursue a small claim in the Washington State court system.
Hopefully this saga/rant is over.
Philip A. Lamb
Lamb Legal
Yakima, WA
WSBA#8148

My update:

My 2010 TE250 has been starting great for 2 yrs after I tightened the ex valve and fixed my sheared woodruff key. Finally my sprag failed and "welded" my "new" ring gear to my flywheel so everything would spin together.

Anyway, parts were on back order and I still had my old 2010 ring gear that was swapped 2 years ago by Husky in an attempt to fix the no hot E-start condition.

I swapped in this old ring gear that looked unworn along with a new flywheel I had in a parts box and the bike seems to E-start just fine...even when hot.

I still cannot seem to seperate the ring gear from the old flywheel! I am now drilling through the flywheel holes trying to manipulate the bearings in the sprag and I dont know if it will ever come apart!

Hi, having the hot estart problem on my 2010 te250. Also the kick starter shows significant resistance occasionnally like it was dragging something inside the engine. Anyone know of this problem and solution. I'm thinking knackered sprag that is dragging when hot?

Hi,
I am a Spaniard who owns a TE 310 (2012 model). 5000 Kms now. Electric start problem driving me mad from the beggining. I took the bike under warranty 2 or 3 times to get the problem 'solved'. Last time with the 'improved kit ' crown+shaft. It seemed to be ok .. but it lasted 7 months. While waiting for oem parts (2 months!), I had the bike working only with kick start (installed a handmade cover plate and removed all the electric start system).
Then again, it cracked hard. Crown, shaft, pinion body, electric start motor, bolts, gaskets ... out of warranty ... a fortune spend. No Husqvarna dealer in the place I'm living after BMW's selling to Pig-erer Industries ... BMW doesn't want to know anything ... An aberration ...
Get all the new stuff installed ... second ride and it got stuck again ... For God's sake.
New bike, new ECU+12 h-i, shorai battery, suspension done, some special parts .... lot of money spent.
Good bike when it works ... but I'm afraid the electric start system is a pizza crown + spaguetti shaft + lasagne start motor.
So I'm thinking now to have only kick start .... ( in a 10.000$ bike !)
Unless somebody (from Husqvarna?) give us a solution.
It's a shame.
I'm desperated !