I just got a te630 and am kinda dissapointed it dosent power wheelie in 2nd. I even put a sprocket in the rear with 4 more teath (it was 42t i went up to a 46t) and still nada. Its stock as far as i know but dose have the pu kit. What i want to know is, without doing pipes what do i need to get it to 48hp. And why is it a 630 when its only 600cc. And will pulling the packing out of my pipes help at all with performance or sound quality. Thanks
And can anyone tell me how these hold up matinace wise, or what the main problem these typically incounter. And whats going on with this ktm change are parts even gunna be availible, i went to one place and they couldent even order me a red husqvarna sticked cause alls the can get from ktm is the new husqvarna blue moddle stuff?
I'm getting power wheelies in 2nd, thottle on hard at about 2000-3500 rpm Bear in mind that is with a Leo Vince Titanium system and PC V. Maintenance wise, I haven't had an issue yet, with 11,000km on it. Have a read of the clutch problem thread that's sticky on this 610/630 forum, and to keep that in mind. As of now, it looks like SWM/Shineray are going to continue the 630 for a few years to come, but other than that there are laws that state manufacturers must stock parts for 9/10 years after the vehicle is made. Plus, the 630 shares a lot in common with the 610. Parts should not be an issue, if you order from the right places.
Gutting exhaust cans http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/my-take-on-converting-630-cans-to-flow-throughs.19706/ http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/cats-out-of-the-630.19162/ Known problems http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/documented-630-part-failures-known-weak-areas.30149/ We're lucky to have this great forum for our one-yr-only bikes. It's worth some time reading and searching thru just to see what's out there. .
6K miles on my gutted stock cans and still love them. Bike has been just fantastic. Unfortunately a year after I got my TE I also bought a Triumph Tiger 800XC and it gets four times the ride time on it. It just eats hiway miles. So it has 16K miles in 2 years, the TE 6K miles in three years. The Husky is just so much easier to ride off road though, so it still goes on those tougher trips. No intention of selling it...yet.
So what parts are manditory to get my hp to 48ish, other than pipes. Ive got the pu kit whats the next step. Do i just get the ibeats and do those adjustments or do i need the pc v to acompony it or what combo of parts do i need, I lost track threw the 8 pages on what were the ideal things to get so i dont have to do the try this and try that sorta buisness. And would it be cheaper to just have it dino tuned, would they be able to do the same adjustments as ibeats. I dont know to much on this stuff, so was hopin you smart foke could lend me your advice. THANKS ROB
When someone dyno tunes your bike for you, they're going to be using exactly the same tools that you have at your disposal (i.e. iBeat adjustment &/or PC 5 &/or JD Tuner). What they have that you don't is a feedback mechanism showing the objective results of their fueling changes in terms of power and torque. So really that is what you are paying for is some sort of validation of the fueling changes that you would otherwise have to rely on your senses to confirm. You are also hopefully paying for some experience/wisdom so that no damage is being done by being to rich or to lean etc. A PC 5 will give you the greatest fueling adjustment resolution (i.e. finest control over your fueling), but thats not of much advantage if you are just using a 'seat of the pants' dyno, really you may as well just use iBeat. You could add AutoTune to the PC5, but then you need someone to give you a decent idea of what target AFR to use from a power/damage/fuel economy point of view at all the different load and RPM points.....which is where I'm somewhat stuck, I have a rough idea but not a very good idea of how far I can push things.... As for parts basically it's a case of try to reduce restriction on both the intake and exhaust sides. You can also do engine internals but then you are getting very seriously into the 'custom workshop' side of things as there isn't much off the shelf stuff i know of in terms of Cams or High Compression pistons etc. So basically: PU Kit Exhaust Airbox Opening (clean air filter, maybe remove snorkel, maybe add EHS Airbox intake etc) Fuel Mapping / Dyno Tuning I'm not certain, but I don't think you need to worry too much about potential exhaust reversion screwing with the fuel mapping in the low RPM area since it's using factory cams and is fuel injected. But that's a totally unsubstantiated comment, just the impression that I have formed based on the information that i have been able to find.
I thought that target AFR numbers were pretty well understood. You are saying that they vary from bike to bike (as in brand/model, not 630 to another 630)? If that's the case, there goes my assumption that auto-tune was smart enough to do the job on its own. iBeat is actually pretty crude. (or maybe it is a restriction of the Mikuni system) I have a KTM 990 SMT with a Keihin EFI system, and you can modify fuel maps on rpm/throttle opening basis over the entire range, not just 3 values as with iBeat. But maybe that's good enough for what the 630 is designed for.
Yeah, AFR are pretty well universal for petrol engines. Optimal fuel economy with a slight power tradeoff is at 14.7:1 (set at stock, possibly leaner) Optimal power, without substituting too much fuel economy is at roughly 13.6:1 Optimal power, without worrying about fuel economy but cooling the engine is less than 12:1 Autotune is the shit, I have leaned mine out at low throttle opening for cruising and richened it up for full power/full throttle. Works like a charm and only had to do two rides to get the values correct I'm sure someone will correct me if i'm too far out with my numbers...
Yeah most of the 'bike to bike' variation is between brands/models though there can be some bike to bike variation. The main reason being the possible variation in the distance and placement of the O2 sensor for the AutoTune system, if it's located in a vastly different spot relative to the combustion chamber. My general understanding (with the AutoTune O2 sensor located in pretty much the factory location) is that you are pretty safe using around 13.7-14 for lower load conditions (and by extraploation, lower RPM ranges - since it's pretty rare to be revving the nuts off it at low load) as your 'lean cruise', but maybe you can take it further than this...? You can then hover around the 13.2-13 for 'normal load' sort of conditions and RPM ranges, going to 12.7-12.8 for high load/high RPM conditions. EDIT: Interesting numbers from maxyb, thanks. I've read conflicting opinions about going super lean on your 'lean cruise' AFR. Some say you can run 14.7 (or even higher) at the sensor but other people say that will be risking overheating the cylinder/rings (hard to know unless you run an EGT gauge or something) and you are better off staying below 14.0. I've read about people going as high as 12 on their performance AFR and other people saying they're just pissing away fuel, but without a dyno I can't shed any more light on that unfortunately...
Rob, If you want to keep it simple, my advice is pipe, PU kit, and iBeat set to 100,105,118. Go find a dyno, take your iBeat, make a handful of passes to verify what full throttle number (third number) gives you the best hp. You're done. .
dirtyrhode, We already had iBeat. If you don't buy it, make sure you can find it to use it to set TPS and CO's at least once or twice. What has worked great for us on the TE 630's. Make the gear ratio 3.0 Cut open the air box lid (behind the protection of the side cover) as much as possible, leaving the rubber grommet in place of course, no snorkel, no way. I zip tie the side panels on to btw. Check and secure the air box vent hose with a drilled in cotter key and check and bottom out the air box in to the air boot while your there. (Mine needed attention) Get the p/u cap and plug installed. Ditch the stock exhaust. The FMF Power Core 4 is the best (and maybe only choice now) for a single exhaust imo. After completing the items above, the FMF was the best improvement power wise, I made for the 630's. Get the things above done and get your bike on iBeat and set the CO's to DYNOBOB's stated 108-108-116 or 110-110-120 and you will be much happier with your 630. I tried the stock exhaust with the cats cut out and the awesome WINGS Ti twin exhausts. The stock twin pipe set up will always be heaver then a single system and the twins will dump all that heat under your shock and battery box. Weight and heat not good for an off road bike. Twins on a Supermoto sure. The general consensus is setting the CO's with iBeat to the proper setting for the mods done is the way to go. Don't spend your money on a piggy back item like a JD tuner or Power Commander. Guys with a piggyback have removed them after using DYNOBOB's recommend settings. Put that money towards a single exhaust, imo. I recently rode my 630 on some s/t, with a fresh Kenda K270 rear tire. I was thoroughly impressed. I cleared a long and snotty hill climb on the 630 just as if I was on the 510. The power and delivery felt the same between the two bike. I thought I would have to rev the 630 higher because of the gearing, but it was perfect, maybe even better then the 510. The 3.0 gearing with the above mods is perfect for the 630 imo. I will not be changing the gearing. It will throttle wheelie in 2nd gear, with traction of course.
Have you tried contacting Halls in IL? I'm pretty confident they can get you what you may need. As for Ibeat settings I've found these offer some improvement 102,105,116 for FMF or 102,105, 118 for a full leo equipped bike. I had initially used what is mentioned above but found these settings to be better especially with throttle response below 1/2 throttle.
Awesome. Thanks guys. Has anybody had any problems with the cords for the ibeats system? I had mentioned ibeats and the aftermarket cable to some dude at a bike shop and he was sayin the cords were fudgin up computers. Im pretty shure its bs.
Guess this is a late post...anyway I think iBeat only works with 32bit windows OS. Something about the usb drivers.
