• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1977 360 Auto ressurection

I removed the top end yesterday, I can't help thinking that this is low hour bike, Mahle piston, the bore looks very usable, piston measures at 81.82, 81.92 is standard, not bad after 43 years! It was always my intention to split the cases to replace seals etc, but since the crusty rust on the barrel studs fell into the crankcases, it wasn't my decision anyway, the big end feels great, mains are smooth but I'll check them once I split the cases.
Have a look at that ring gap! I knew compression was down, but I didn't expect just over 4mm end gap.
I'll have a friend mic the barrel for taper etc and go from there.

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I made up a tool to hold the clutch hub while undoing the 32mm nut, it turned out to be quite loose, 30nm at most, the first gear drum looks very good, the shoes will be dressed with a hacksaw blade as per the manual, but no bad news here.


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Next up was the main hub and cluster, it lifted out easily, and the shoes will get a clean up and there is some wear in the main hub, but I'm told it's quite serviceable.
I'm still thinking that this is a low hour bike....
The engagement gear dogs and main shaft look quite good as well actually better in real life than the pics suggest, I don't think there is any reason why this transmission can't be used as is after cleaning up the grooves in the shoes, not often things go this well!:cheers::applause::banana:


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Can anyone tell me the stock shock absorber eye to eye measurement? I have searched but I get varying lenghts mentioned, I thought they were 14" but I'm not sure, the Koni shocks on the bike are 13.5".
 
I believe my original shocks where 12.75". I replaced mine with 13.5" shocks, and they work fine.
 
Have any of you guys discovered 3 fork seals per leg before? I removed three35x47x7mm seals per leg, was this an attempt to stop them leaking? Apart from the obvious stiction issue, it's actually kind of clever.
 
Hopefully my "no spark" issue should be a thing of the past, stator tests well, coil not so good, cut the end off the lead at the cap and all good now, I just can't test on the bike it at the moment as my engine is spread all over my workbench.
 
ajcmbrown said:
Can anyone tell me the paint code for the frame and the green tank?
Click to expand...

If no one comes up with a paint code? Go look at some paint chips for old Porsche colors. I think you will find the green there.
 

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Here is another one:

This is from 1976.

Almost looks like Porsche Speedway green?

I think I seen where there was some green left in your filler neck. Inside of tank? What about underneath in frame tunnel?

Tip, always match your paint chip up with color out in the sun.

If you do have paint under tank, see if someone could scan the color.
 

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Here another tip:

For the chrome panel. Polish the chrome. Then make a stencil out of duct tape to cover the chrome panel area. Sandblast/glass bead the tank anywhere there is chrome left, just enough so primer and paint can bite into it and adhere. Sand from sandblaster won’t go through the duct tape, unless guy is using high pressure.
That’s why you see all these old husky tanks with paint flaking off of chrome. Worst thing you can do is paint over chrome unless you etch it.
 
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