449 / 511 recap and info

[Tinken]

One time powercommander dyno testing fees $250. Unlimited Autotune testing $220. Any questions?

 

[motomanic]

Regarding the FMF end can, does the Akroprovic race can that also comes with the bike (UK Spec) make decent power with the JD Tuner?

 

[Suputin]

As the BMW era is over and the 449 / 511 platform is sure to be dead soon I would like to recap my experience for those that might be looking to snap up the spectacular deals on these machines.

1. Bike has been very solid. No oil and water leaks around the water pump and various sealing seams like the older motors.

Well thats good to know as I am planning on keeping this bike for some time.

7. Wear parts seem to last forever on this bike. At over 4000 miles I am still on the stock pads, the chain and sprockets seems last far longer and IMHO this is due tot he CTS keeping constant tension instead of whipping at the sprockets as everything changes length on a conventional setup. Valves never move.

I haven't been too impressed with the performance of the OEM pads on the SMR version. They tend to fade badly when used hard. It took me some digging but I discovered the SMR511 uses the same Brembo caliper as the BMW S1000R thus better pads can be sourced.

11. KYB suspension has been very good, i am still on my stock fork seals (unheard of for me). Sending it off To ZipTy to upgrade and service as it is time but pretty happy with the stock stuff (TE model)

My fork seals gave up the ghost at around 3000 kms. Both of them started pissing fluid out so badly the bike was covered in oil and I had to cut and run for home before a tire go oiled. My suspension guy discovered a missing spring inside one fork leg when he serviced the forks.

15. Keighn EFI is far superior to the Mikuni stuff on the older bikes. Not perfect but far better.

I didn't really have any EFI issues till I added the FMF pipe. Now the bike flames out all the time which is REALLY ANNOYING. Seriously need to fix that if anyone has any suggestions.

18. Head bearings have a far better seal and as such life than the older bikes.

My headstock came loose, seriously loose by 3000 kms. Once I discovered the problem I was shocked how far the top nut had backed out. I have noticed that the nut has a tendency to back off so I have it marked so I can keep track of it.


Issues?

- Oil breather and oil level is a issue with several solutions. Not a big issue but needs addressed.

It is however a horrendously annoying issue as the bike ends up covered in oil and the radiator fins full of oily dirt which causes overheating.

- Flame outs right off idle. Some have it worse than others. Some fixes, not a huge issue but is there.

Any suggestions for a fix, I'd be very grateful as it is horribly annoying. Nearly went over the bars one time.

- Shifter, kinda odd shaped and to high. Hard to get to the mounting bolt to tighten or remove.

I wanted to KILL the engineer who designed that the first time I tried to adjust it. The amount of crap that has to be removed just to get at the shifter pedal is ludicrous. This goes for most of the bike. To remove or access anything, generally means you need to take 3 or 4 other parts out. It also seems like some parts are virtually impossible to either remove or replace. Try to remove and replace the air box top sometime. Its fukin unbelievable!

- rear fender is more complicated than it needs to be.

The rear fender is CRAP! I am told later model years had a single piece rear fender? Can anyone confirm that as I'd love to get one while they are still available.

A few other things I have noticed about the SMR511.

It doesn't brake slide worth a damn. My WR250X brake slides beautifully but the Husky just doesn't want to do that kind of maneuver which is kind of disappointing from a supermoto bike.

The handling is extremely twitchy at high speed. True we don't go fast very often on these bikes but the odd time I do, it is outright frightening. The Aprilia SXV was like that too.

The suspension damping adjustments didn't seem to do much of anything but I suppose suspension is one of those things most bikes need professionally sorted in order to be any good so we won't really hold that as a serious negative.

The exhaust was un-guarded and the first time I rode the bike I melted a set of pants which was very annoying. I finally got a carbon exhaust guard which solved that problem.

The front brake lever is way too long. It doesn't fit under a set of handlebar guards.

The speedo cable is downright stupid. It is threaded into the bottom of the fork leg. To remove the fork you have to unscrew the entire cable, which means you have to unplug the cable where it attaches behind the dash, which is nearly impossible to access without unbolting the entire headlight and front fender assembly. I guess in BMW's world nobody ever removes the forks from a motorcycle so there is no need to make it easy to do. Seriously if I ever get my hands round the neck of the engineer who designed this bike he will die gurgling while I slowly throttle the bastard.

Have you tried to change the spark plug? The plug cap is bolted to the top of the valve cover. The bolt is "protected" by a raised plastic flange so it cannot be accessed with a wrench from the side. The bolt is also situated directly under a frame rail so it cannot be accessed from above with a socket. How on earth is that bolt supposed to be removed? Does the engine really need to be removed from the frame to change the spark plug? I'm not kidding when I say that engineer needs to be killed and killed slowly.

Here is a small one but it makes me shake my head. The airbox drain is on the right side of the air box. Which, when the bike is on its side stand is the high side of the air box. In what engineering school do they teach that the best place for a drain is the highest point of the container bottom?


Do I like anything about the bike?

Once the OEM exhaust is removed and the EFI sorted, the bike sounds freakin awesome and goes like the clappers of hell. It is a BEAST and reminds me of the Aprilia SXV550 without the ax-murder, psychopath personality of the SXV. On pavement it is a ton of fun to ride.

It looks amazing.

 

[James Patton]

Sounds like an honest assessment. I have been much luckier, on just about all accounts.
Have the open exhaust map loaded for you FMF and it probably won't flame out, and will run better.
My bike does backwards wheelies with the front brakes, but as far as fade goes I probably don't stay with it
Long enough, most of my riding is in the dirt. What would be a better choice for you riding requirements?

 

[MaDProFF]

High speed what do you classify as high speed?

 

[demi]

A few other things I have noticed about the SMR511.

It doesn't brake slide worth a damn. My WR250X brake slides beautifully but the Husky just doesn't want to do that kind of maneuver which is kind of disappointing from a supermoto bike.

The handling is extremely twitchy at high speed. True we don't go fast very often on these bikes but the odd time I do, it is outright frightening. The Aprilia SXV was like that too.

The suspension damping adjustments didn't seem to do much of anything but I suppose suspension is one of those things most bikes need professionally sorted in order to be any good so we won't really hold that as a serious negative.

The exhaust was un-guarded and the first time I rode the bike I melted a set of pants which was very annoying. I finally got a carbon exhaust guard which solved that problem.

The front brake lever is way too long. It doesn't fit under a set of handlebar guards.

The speedo cable is downright stupid. It is threaded into the bottom of the fork leg. To remove the fork you have to unscrew the entire cable, which means you have to unplug the cable where it attaches behind the dash, which is nearly impossible to access without unbolting the entire headlight and front fender assembly. I guess in BMW's world nobody ever removes the forks from a motorcycle so there is no need to make it easy to do. Seriously if I ever get my hands round the neck of the engineer who designed this bike he will die gurgling while I slowly throttle the bastard.

Have you tried to change the spark plug? The plug cap is bolted to the top of the valve cover. The bolt is "protected" by a raised plastic flange so it cannot be accessed with a wrench from the side. The bolt is also situated directly under a frame rail so it cannot be accessed from above with a socket. How on earth is that bolt supposed to be removed? Does the engine really need to be removed from the frame to change the spark plug? I'm not kidding when I say that engineer needs to be killed and killed slowly.

Here is a small one but it makes me shake my head. The airbox drain is on the right side of the air box. Which, when the bike is on its side stand is the high side of the air box. In what engineering school do they teach that the best place for a drain is the highest point of the container bottom?


Do I like anything about the bike?

Once the OEM exhaust is removed and the EFI sorted, the bike sounds freakin awesome and goes like the clappers of hell. It is a BEAST and reminds me of the Aprilia SXV550 without the ax-murder, psychopath personality of the SXV. On pavement it is a ton of fun to ride.

It looks amazing.

Yeah, overly complicated like the fenders.I ended up removing the lower air box tray and rad wings to gain access. Still tight though!!

 

[Tinken]

When you remove the spark coil, grind off the plastic ledges. Then no more fuss.

 

[James Patton]

I have had the forks, triple tree, etc apart twice. I thought it was a simple thing. I am used to sportbikes though,
A lot more "stuff" in the way. Nothing broke just greasing, and suspension work. I also love the fender, it's not like
Every one of the big 4's...signature look if you will.

 

[inachun]

One time powercommander dyno testing fees $250. Unlimited Autotune testing $220. Any questions?

Whats the update frequency of the autotune? Does it require you to sit on a particular rev range for a few minutes before it will update the map?

The amount of crap that has to be removed just to get at the shifter pedal is ludicrous

I put this off as I read how difficult it was to get to. Gave it a go the other day and found it pretty easy. Just used a ball end allen key and then was able to adjust the shifter by pushing it into the chain - didn't need to remove our touch anything else.

 

[oregonsage]

Regarding the FMF end can, does the Akroprovic race can that also comes with the bike (UK Spec) make decent power with the JD Tuner?

The Akra works just fine in my experience.

 

[Tinken]

Whats the update frequency of the autotune? Does it require you to sit on a particular rev range for a few minutes before it will update the map?

.

Just ride it normally.

 

[Suputin]

High speed what do you classify as high speed?

Over 130 km/hr and I get an alarming weave.

When you remove the spark coil, grind off the plastic ledges. Then no more fuss.

True but the first time is downright stupid and we shouldn't have to make these kinds of mods.

Have the open exhaust map loaded for you FMF and it probably won't flame out, and will run better.

I'm running a JD box so no map unless maybe you are refering to rreflashing the stock ECU?

My bike does backwards wheelies with the front brakes, but as far as fade goes I probably don't stay with it
Long enough, most of my riding is in the dirt. What would be a better choice for you riding requirements?

Pads that offer more bite and don't fade with a bit of use.

 

[Tinken]

Even if you run the JD Tuner, since the JD only amplifies the original signal, you still pose the chance of flame-out. By reloading the map set #3 into the stock ecu, you eliminate the leaning at specific points and possibly the need to run a tuner at all. However, running a JD tuner on top of the remap could gain some additional power, but on better base map than what was shipped from the factory.

 

[Suputin]

Even if you run the JD Tuner, since the JD only amplifies the original signal, you still pose the chance of flame-out. By reloading the map set #3 into the stock ecu, you eliminate the leaning at specific points and possibly the need to run a tuner at all. However, running a JD tuner on top of the remap could gain some additional power, but on better base map than what was shipped from the factory.

OK, I'll buy that. So how do I go about getting map set #3 loaded into the stock ECU?

 

[Tinken]

Many local dealers can load the BMW map#3. Zipty can load it through mail order.

 

[Mojorod]

The purpose of the early oil and filter change is two fold

1-to flush manufacturing residue out of the engine; the sooner the better
2-to be running known oil of your choice in the engine; also the sooner the better

My 449 and 511 were the cleanest first oil changes I have ever seen, but even they had some metallic, silvery residue come out on that first change. Subsequent changes are always less metallic looking than the first one, which is all the evidence I need that an early oil change is a good idea.

I made the first oilchange already after 1,5hrs. Really a good thing, you don´t want this in your Engine:

 

[Tinken]

I use the 30-100-300 mile schedule. One and a half hours is a long time. That looks good, there is little or no metal on your crank shaft prefilter, only on the transmission side.

 

[gillies]

Mine looked nothing like that.

I made the first oilchange already after 1,5hrs. Really a good thing, you don´t want this in your Engine:
View attachment 27101

 

[Husqmarkus]

Mine looked almost like that; a little less metal shavings .... But I was glad I changed mine at 50 miles, I will do it again at 100 and then 150 ... Also, I am using mobile 1 full synthetic oil 10w 40 ... Is this an acceptable oil for this bike? Can some one send me the link to the "oil fill" problem? I would like to not under fill the oil capacity. The dealership told me to just fill to the bottom of the site glass... I haven't had the experience with the oil blowing out through the air filter and don't want that problem ...

 

[oregonsage]

Im on my 3rd outing with the Zip-Ty breather relocator running 1150cc per spec on TXC511. Working great.

http://www.ziptyracing.com/breather-vent-cap/