• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

449 / 511 recap and info

Mojorod said:
This is what I´m talking about regarding flame outs / stalled engine:
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/video-swedish-enduro-ränneslättsloppet-with-a-te449.35779/

Just one thing to do: save money now for the EFM autoclutch!!
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When you are racing like that, you need a secondary switch that charges the fuel pump up to pressure so that when you start, it will fire on the first push. Also I noticed that when you ride, you generally are keeping the engine at really low rpms, at times even lugging it. This engine is higher strung and performs better at mid to high rpms. You worked through the pack well, but you let Kawi knock you down. You're on a Husky 500, so push those guys out of the way. If they don't like it, they can stay clear of you!
 
Tinken said:
When you are racing like that, you need a secondary switch that charges the fuel pump up to pressure so that when you start, it will fire on the first push.
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Ive seen some KTM 350 guys do this...an example with diagram and pics would be cool. Does the primer switch need to turn off after starting?
 
Mojorod said:
Argh, the damn thing flames out too easy. Climbing logs and really tight cornering in 1st is a nightmare. Just as you give a little pump on the throttle at low
revs it just stalls. And in cornering when leaning a ground contact is close.
I've fitted the Akra and the power loop, + disambled the CO2 sensor. The starter pinches, I have to release startbutton and hit it again sometimes. 4hrs in total. Just keep riding and see if it's getting smoother?
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When the starter pinches, hold in the clutch and rock the bike back-and-forth about a foot once. It'll disengage whatever's engaged.
 
Hey Motosportz I see your bike has a set of red anodized handguards that bolt to an integrated handle bar top mount. Can you PLEASE tell me where I can find these. They look way cool and very functional. I have a pair of 511s that need them in the worst way.
 
Here's a little clip of some of the things I did up to last October - since then I've ordered the "race kit" from R&D in Australia: machined triple clamps, foot pegs, anodized fuel cap (fits waaay better than the plastic), graphics kit, aluminum skid plate & the clutch cover. I didn't get the white plastics (too big for shipping)
Will redo vid once I get the new bits on - it's been -30 degrees Celsius here recently - that's dang cold for lack of conversion to Fahrenheit:)
View: http://youtu.be/-Yb5_rgrahs
 
Can anyone direct me to some foot pegs that offset slightly further back. I was noodling around on some thread or another and ran into a post about replacing the stock 511 pegs with ones that offset back & offer a bit longer reach out to the shifter and brake pedals. I have looked and can't seem to figure out where I saw that post. Would really love to have a pair as I am always getting on the brake pedal by accident while riding, and cant get my boot under the shifter while standing without going into strange leg contortions. Seems funny that they made the bike so tall you have to be 6'2' or taller to get on and off it, but set the pegs/lever distance for a size 8 or smaller boot size.
 
I know what you mean as I am 6'6, but you don't really want the pegs back as it will change the way the suspension feels as you move away from the swing arm center. I suggest you look into lowering the foot pegs, there are manufactures which sell them. Ask Motosportz Kelly about lowering pegs he sells.
 
wildernessrider said:
Can anyone direct me to some foot pegs that offset slightly further back. I was noodling around on some thread or another and ran into a post about replacing the stock 511 pegs with ones that offset back & offer a bit longer reach out to the shifter and brake pedals. I have looked and can't seem to figure out where I saw that post. Would really love to have a pair as I am always getting on the brake pedal by accident while riding, and cant get my boot under the shifter while standing without going into strange leg contortions. Seems funny that they made the bike so tall you have to be 6'2' or taller to get on and off it, but set the pegs/lever distance for a size 8 or smaller boot size.
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I bought the Touratech lowered and set back pegs. But I agree with Tinken, they change the feel of the suspension slightly. It's a good idea, but I think I'm going to go back to stock when these have been mangled beyond recognition. I've also noticed that with them being lower, and since the bike is so wide at that location, I'm brushing my ankles on stuff even more than with stock. I've even caught my toes on stuff. Not cool.
 
The solution for me is to physically mount the pegs lower. Since there is a triangular area in which to weld a new mounting plate, it will be easier for me to lower my pegs while also keeping them on center with the swing arm shaft. I have had my suspension lifted, so there will be no ground clearance issues and I will be able to stand while riding without the discomfort of bending over so far. :)
 
huskylove said:
Anyone have any idea on how to program the factory dash for 17" wheels? IT is way off right now..
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Interesting question, not that I like the oem dash, but another solution will be to move the magnet and sensor. I am not sure the oem one is movable. If not, ZipTy does carry an aftermarket one which could be experimented with.
 
That's true, on a TrailTech you can actually measure the distance of 1 revolution of the front wheel and input it into the unit. Not sure if the stock unit can do that.
 
toolguy1 said:
That's true, on a TrailTech you can actually measure the distance of 1 revolution of the front wheel and input it into the unit. Not sure if the stock unit can do that.
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i would think there is a way as they come in 21 and 17 wheel versions stock.
 
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