• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Decatting the TE511 Muffler...

Do we know if the Akro slip on muffler provided with the bikes here in Australia have catalytic converters in them?
 
Got any more pictures of the internal baffles? I may want to shorten and decat my pipe soon as the bike gets here...
 
Did this today....exhaust sounds tinny and metallic sounding. Not smoothe and deep. Unless I dropped a rivet in the middle of the can or something.

By the way this is a super pain in the ass. If you decat + remove the spark arrestor, the exhaust is as loud as any bike I have had with a loud slip on. With the SA in it sounds a bit louder and throatier than stock.

I have a fmf slip on on the way so figured id experiment. Also back to back runs the spark arrestor did not seem to take much if any power away. But the bike is way louder! I am leaving the SA in.
 
Map 2 only. I ordered a pc v and auto tune. I would love to send the ecu in to get map 3 but cant do the downtime quite yet.
 
Nice to have all three, if there is an issue in the pcv, it automatically reverts to stock ecu programming.
 
Thanks for working all this out for us.

I finally did mine yesterday. I used the sawzall to cut the welds off the thin shield. After pulling the shield away, it's much easier to just cut through the first layer all the way around. Just cut right in front of the weld bead. Don't try to cut through the cat. It's a separate tube assembly, so you really only have to cut through one layer of metal not two. Once I cut all the way around, the cat tube just fell out as one piece.



I haven't had a chance to take my bike out yet but I can only guess it will have better roll-on and high end. It still sounds great with a slightly deeper rumble at idle. I would guess the cat is a quarter to a third of the total weight of the pipe.

 
Hey, for the guys that cut them out with a zip saw (the direction I am heading), what TPI did you find worked best?

All I had were cheapy Harbor Tools blades, so I ordered up some quality extended life blades (Bosch I think) that were bimetal from 16-24 TPI. I dotn have a ton of metals cutting experiences, so not sure if there is any finesss or if I just grab a blade and go at it! Ie do I have a helper cool with some WD-40 and treat it like drilling?

I think the only metal I have zipped in the past is rebar. Any other cutting I did with a torch and there is no way I can do this cut with the torch.
 
I just left the housing in and hollowed out the converter. Others have stated there is more weight to lose if you remove the housing but I simply broke the insides out and filed it clean inside.
 
Muchmore said:
I just left the housing in and hollowed out the converter. Others have stated there is more weight to lose if you remove the housing but I simply broke the insides out and filed it clean inside.
Click to expand...


So it is some kind of ceramic right? I have only seen the insides of catalysts for wood stoves - never the inside of an automotive although I assume the process is quite similar.

Not that this has stopped me in the past, but have any third nipples appeared as of yet? I am guessing the materials in the catalyst are not stuff one finds at Wal-mart...
 
Muchmore said:
I just left the housing in and hollowed out the converter. Others have stated there is more weight to lose if you remove the housing but I simply broke the insides out and filed it clean inside.
Click to expand...


I attempted that but that stuff was really hard to remove.
 
I used a great big 3/4" or bigger wood drill bit then a flat screw driver to break it up and pry it away from the edges. Long, long process no doubt but it became very smooth after a wire wheel on a Dremel to clean out in inside diameter of the pipe. The insides are a kind of aluminium honeycomb coated in ceramic, looks just like a smaller metallic wasp nest. No third nipples but I do pee my pants when the microwave turns on "cousin Eddie" :D
 
Rather than going to the trouble of de-catting the oem big can muffler, I think a better option is to add baffles to an inexpensive silencer like the powercore4 and shed 5lbs of high center of gravity weight. Baffles such as half mood shaped wedges can be easily welded into the silencer at alternate angles as well as a smaller diameter insert. There is always a compromise between output power and noise. The big can is heavy and stifles the power considerably.
 
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