bluegopher
Husqvarna
AA Class
+1
-
Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
How to check your valve clearances pictorial
- Thread starter RuggedExposure
- Start date
Husqvarna
I paid $375 for the valve job, included oil change and filter. Plus a freshen up on both brake hydraulic fluids, and an adjustment to the rear brake pedal. Which was stuck in the on position, something i was unaware of.
bluegopher
Husqvarna
AA Class
Sounds like a well spent $375 after reading RE's write up.
I must admit at the time, it was money set ad=side for a bashplate/crashbars. Now i see it as money well spent. It'll be a good while before i can must up the time and shop space to tackle such a task. Somehow someway there has to be a better way!
everfree
Husqvarna
Pro Class
I agree. This is madness.
Do you really design a bike like this? Does it have to be so complicated?
nev..
Terrarist
It doesn't "have to" be that complicated, but the non-complicated version has that 3 gallons of fuel over the top of the engine, instead of down beside your ankles.
Tazzierob
Husqvarna
AA Class
Yep, go buy a DR or KLR if simplicity is what you're after. I'd sooner ride around the world on one of those than a TR. I've never done a valve check on my bikes, and will be leaving this one to the dealer to do, especially during warranty, as I'd be bound to cock something up and void it. Good on someone for having the balls to tackle it themselves, hope RE gets her back together without too many more tears
BikingEngineer
Husqvarna
AA Class
I agree, I think $375 would be quite worth it with a task like that. I'll probably take Tazzierob's approach and get it done until the warranty's up, then get it done as needed (which on every other vehicle I've had is quite infrequently).
bikehunter
Husqvarna
AA Class
I bet there will be a lot owners marking bolt heads to prove that the mechanics have actually checked the valves in their service schedule
RuggedExposure
Now with more rugged!
MadDogTR
Husqvarna
AA Class
In what state or country?
I bet there will be a lot owners marking bolt heads to prove that the mechanics have actually checked the valves in their service schedule
I always ask for before and after measurements.
It's not Husqvarna that is at fault, it is the "BMW way of doing things". Needlessly complicated designs, at least as far as the automobiles go.
blaine.hale
Husqvarna
A Class
That's never been a standard of BMW until the oil heads. Airheads have a pretty known model: "simple by choice"
RuggedExposure
Now with more rugged!
So I began the task of putting the Terra back together, and I happened to glance over at the forks. There is a sticker there:
And on this dandy sticker it states the clearances for valves...
INTAKE: 0.06 - 0.10 MM (0.002 - 0.004 IN)
EXHAUST: 0.26 - 0.30 MM (0.10 - 0.11 IN)
But the craptastic 'shop manual' states:
What in the Hell?
Which one do I go off of? According to the shop manual my valves are at the very bottom clearances... according to the bike itself, the intakes are fine and the exhaust is too loose...
And on this dandy sticker it states the clearances for valves...
INTAKE: 0.06 - 0.10 MM (0.002 - 0.004 IN)
EXHAUST: 0.26 - 0.30 MM (0.10 - 0.11 IN)
But the craptastic 'shop manual' states:
What in the Hell?
Which one do I go off of? According to the shop manual my valves are at the very bottom clearances... according to the bike itself, the intakes are fine and the exhaust is too loose...
RuggedExposure
Now with more rugged!
I called them up and the guy in the service department said go off of the workshop manual...
OK. Then why does the bike say different?
He didn't have an answer for that.
I also asked him about the dust problem, and asked if that would be under warranty. He said no because its the user's responsibility to make sure the filter is working.
I'll be damned.
OK. Then why does the bike say different?
He didn't have an answer for that.
I also asked him about the dust problem, and asked if that would be under warranty. He said no because its the user's responsibility to make sure the filter is working.
I'll be damned.
chris1261
Husqvarna
AA Class
So I began the task of putting the Terra back together, and I happened to glance over at the forks. There is a sticker there:
And on this dandy sticker it states the clearances for valves...
INTAKE: 0.06 - 0.10 MM (0.002 - 0.004 IN)
EXHAUST: 0.26 - 0.30 MM (0.10 - 0.11 IN)
But the craptastic 'shop manual' states:
What in the Hell?
Which one do I go off of? According to the shop manual my valves are at the very bottom clearances... according to the bike itself, the intakes are fine and the exhaust is too loose...
There's also a sticker on the bike that shows the carbon canister hose routing which is incorrect. seems like you can't trust the stickers on the bike at all.
Ogre_fl
Husqvarna
Pro Class
I dont know who your dealer is but I would call some of the bigger Husky dealers too about the sticker vs manual call out.
I would fight that filter statement tooth and nail.
You checked it according to the schedule in manual, right?
20,000 KM or 10,000 KM for very dusty condtions
I would fight that filter statement tooth and nail.
You checked it according to the schedule in manual, right?
20,000 KM or 10,000 KM for very dusty condtions
RuggedExposure
Now with more rugged!
Yes, I'm about 500km shy of 10k.
I called up the service department in Tuscon, where I bought the Terra. The guy said just go off of the manual, that's what they have done the 3-4 valve checks they have performed.
I also asked him about the dust getting by the air filter and he told me that's the customer's problem. Nice.
Looking at the part's fiche:
It appears that #9 is the disk you can change to adjust the valve clearance... That's great and all, but how do you know which one you need? Let's say you have to bump it up 0.05mm, but you need to know what the thickness is of the one installed from the factory and go 0.05mm from there. I suppose you would have to order two sets of these disks to adjust your valves. Or take your bike apart and wait for UPS to bring you the disk you need every time. At $11 a disk, that will be close to $450 after shipping.
Wouldn't it be cheaper to just order the $30 intake valve and just replace it every time it falls out of adjustment? Or do these valves eventually stop wearing and settle into a final adjustment?
I called up the service department in Tuscon, where I bought the Terra. The guy said just go off of the manual, that's what they have done the 3-4 valve checks they have performed.
I also asked him about the dust getting by the air filter and he told me that's the customer's problem. Nice.
Looking at the part's fiche:
It appears that #9 is the disk you can change to adjust the valve clearance... That's great and all, but how do you know which one you need? Let's say you have to bump it up 0.05mm, but you need to know what the thickness is of the one installed from the factory and go 0.05mm from there. I suppose you would have to order two sets of these disks to adjust your valves. Or take your bike apart and wait for UPS to bring you the disk you need every time. At $11 a disk, that will be close to $450 after shipping.
Wouldn't it be cheaper to just order the $30 intake valve and just replace it every time it falls out of adjustment? Or do these valves eventually stop wearing and settle into a final adjustment?