How to check your valve clearances pictorial

[BikingEngineer]

Yes, I'm about 500km shy of 10k.

I called up the service department in Tuscon, where I bought the Terra. The guy said just go off of the manual, that's what they have done the 3-4 valve checks they have performed.

I also asked him about the dust getting by the air filter and he told me that's the customer's problem. Nice.

Looking at the part's fiche:

It appears that #9 is the disk you can change to adjust the valve clearance... That's great and all, but how do you know which one you need? Let's say you have to bump it up 0.05mm, but you need to know what the thickness is of the one installed from the factory and go 0.05mm from there. I suppose you would have to order two sets of these disks to adjust your valves. Or take your bike apart and wait for UPS to bring you the disk you need every time. At $11 a disk, that will be close to $450 after shipping.

Wouldn't it be cheaper to just order the $30 intake valve and just replace it every time it falls out of adjustment? Or do these valves eventually stop wearing and settle into a final adjustment?

You use a feeler gauge to determine your gap. If it's out of spec you'd remove the pad (#9), measure it with some calipers, and do a bit of math to figure out which shim you need. If your dealer service department didn't have a handful of each of these pads I would look for a new dealer.

 

[hasenpfeffer]

I am by no means a mechanic, but don't the valves wear with the head so that if you replace the valve, wouldn't you also need to get the head machined? i.e. use the shims.

 

[Jonny B]

Rugged, Thank you for starting a very fine thread. My dealer told me they indeed need to drop the motor at 8 hrs shop labor. I guess I have more money than time, because there is no way im going to atempt what you did. By the way what tire is that on the front? Still looking for that perfect tire.

 

[RuggedExposure]

You use a feeler gauge to determine your gap. If it's out of spec you'd remove the pad (#9), measure it with some calipers, and do a bit of math to figure out which shim you need. If your dealer service department didn't have a handful of each of these pads I would look for a new dealer.

I live 4 hours away from the dealer. And they didn't seem to be that competent. When I purchased the bike I specifically asked if I drove it 4 hours over there to have the valves checked, could I stand nearby and watch to see the process. The employee told me that 'Joe' gets rather shaky when people watch him to that would be a 'no'.

I don't want Shaky Joe working on my bike.

 

[RuggedExposure]

I am by no means a mechanic, but don't the valves wear with the head so that if you replace the valve, wouldn't you also need to get the head machined? i.e. use the shims.

You're probably right.

 

[chris1261]

Yes, I'm about 500km shy of 10k.

I called up the service department in Tuscon, where I bought the Terra. The guy said just go off of the manual, that's what they have done the 3-4 valve checks they have performed.

I also asked him about the dust getting by the air filter and he told me that's the customer's problem. Nice.

Looking at the part's fiche:

It appears that #9 is the disk you can change to adjust the valve clearance... That's great and all, but how do you know which one you need? Let's say you have to bump it up 0.05mm, but you need to know what the thickness is of the one installed from the factory and go 0.05mm from there. I suppose you would have to order two sets of these disks to adjust your valves. Or take your bike apart and wait for UPS to bring you the disk you need every time. At $11 a disk, that will be close to $450 after shipping.

Wouldn't it be cheaper to just order the $30 intake valve and just replace it every time it falls out of adjustment? Or do these valves eventually stop wearing and settle into a final adjustment?

when I had my ZRX, a bunch of guys on the ZRXOA board chipped in for a "shim kit" it was basically a box of shims that you would use, and then ship to the next guy. Replacing the used shims with the ones in your bike. After a while as valves tightened, there werent enough shims of a certain size, but it worked well for a while.

You can always take the shim out, measure it with a micrometer and figure out which ones you'll need.

I don't think you could pop in a new valve and expect it to be in spec. you'd probably have to adjust the lash with a different sized shim anyway.


--Chris

 

[RuggedExposure]

Rugged, Thank you for starting a very fine thread. My dealer told me they indeed need to drop the motor at 8 hrs shop labor. I guess I have more money than time, because there is no way im going to atempt what you did. By the way what tire is that on the front? Still looking for that perfect tire.

Pirelli Scorpion. Its pretty scary to ride on at first, but once you get the psi dialed in and the tire worn a little its fine.

 

[chris1261]

I live 4 hours away from the dealer. And they didn't seem to be that competent. When I purchased the bike I specifically asked if I drove it 4 hours over there to have the valves checked, could I stand nearby and watch to see the process. The employee told me that 'Joe' gets rather shaky when people watch him to that would be a 'no'.

I don't want Shaky Joe working on my bike.

Not only that, but you want to let the bike sit overnight, and dont' start it before you do the valves. unless you're getting a motel, or sleeping on Shaky Joe's couch, riding over and waiting is kinda out of the question

 

[Kawagumby]

You use a feeler gauge to determine your gap. If it's out of spec you'd remove the pad (#9), measure it with some calipers, and do a bit of math to figure out which shim you need. If your dealer service department didn't have a handful of each of these pads I would look for a new dealer.

Since valve clearances normally reduce with time, I've always just ground off the shim to the required thickness and replaced it. I use a flat plate (my table saw top) fine grit sandpaper and a figure-eight motion. I've been doing that for my thumpers for the last ten years or so and it works perfectly. LOL, I have a box of shims and have never used a one.

 

[Ogre_fl]

Does anyone know if this bike uses the same 10mm shims that the BMW G650X (and I think all the current 650's)?
If so, I recall that the Harley V-Rod uses the same shims, they cost less and a local shop may have some on hand.

 

[hasenpfeffer]

FYI, not that it matters, but the fork sticker on mine is a little clearer:

0.05 ÷ 0.10 mm IN
0.25 ÷ 0.30 mm EX

 

[Tazzierob]

Since valve clearances normally reduce with time, I've always just ground off the shim to the required thickness and replaced it. I use a flat plate (my table saw top) fine grit sandpaper and a figure-eight motion. I've been doing that for my thumpers for the last ten years or so and it works perfectly. LOL, I have a box of shims and have never used a one.

That sounds like the complete opposite of what is required on the TR650. As the valve wears, the cam won't open the valve enough, so a thicker shim needs to be inserted

 

[chris1261]

That sounds like the complete opposite of what is required on the TR650. As the valve wears, the cam won't open the valve enough, so a thicker shim needs to be inserted

I think that as the valve seat wears, the valve stem will get closer to the camshaft, which will mean that the clearance is tighter. i think sanding down the shim will give the desired effect.

 

[RuggedExposure]

The valve stem does not decrease in length, its position only gets closer to the cam, meaning it will not close completely from what I understand. This results in burnt valves.

 

[Coffee]

Depending on the bike, it can either loose or gain clearance. If the valve stem wears shorter the clearance will get smaller, if the valve seat wears it can get bigger.

I've no idea what the 650s will do.

 

[Tazzierob]

Think I've got it now. So to confirm, Rugged needs to measure the thickness of the shim. Then it will be obvious whether a thicker or thinner shim is required

 

[RuggedExposure]

Exactly. But I'm fine with running another 6k miles with it at the minimum clearances. I still have 7 months on the warranty. I'm ready to put this back together and be ready for commuting again next week.

 

[thekinghimself]

Does anyone know if this bike uses the same 10mm shims that the BMW G650X (and I think all the current 650's)?
If so, I recall that the Harley V-Rod uses the same shims, they cost less and a local shop may have some on hand.

Well snap, let's try and confirm this! This would be good news for me, My KTM 950 uses the V-Rod shims (another big deal valve adjust on that sucker), so I have a handful on hand. Plus, they are readily available , dirt cheap and available in half sizes from your local HD dealer.

Somewhere in my research on the Terra, I book marked a 29mm shim kit. That sounds more KLR than Terra.

Does anybody know the answer?

 

[nev..]

I live 4 hours away from the dealer. And they didn't seem to be that competent. When I purchased the bike I specifically asked if I drove it 4 hours over there to have the valves checked, could I stand nearby and watch to see the process. The employee told me that 'Joe' gets rather shaky when people watch him to that would be a 'no'.

I don't want Shaky Joe working on my bike.

Mechanic mate of mine had a sign in his workshop.

Labour - $50/hr.
If you watch - $100/hr.
If you want to give advice - $200/hr.

 

[RidingDonkeys]

I suspect that the TR valves will wear similarly to its BMW 650 counterparts, which would mean that clearances will get tighter due to wear. I swore I wasn't going to do this myself, but I'm half tempted to tear my TR down and measure the clearances now, just out of curiosity. Then when I do it again at the service interval, I can see the change. However, I don't know that I really have time right now.