Making the Dog run as it should

[danketchpel]

Hi, no I am running the best fuel I can find at the moment = Petron Blaze 100 Ron Euro4 grade.

Previously the stumbles and stalls were really dangerous, but I am getting used to the coughs and splutters which occur at around 2100 to 2200 rpm and can usually catch it before it dies now.
I have fitted an O2 sensor spacer and it has made a great improvement, stumbles and stalls are much reduced, but I still get caught out the odd time it decides to die on me.

My question - How can performing a simple 3 minute warm up prior to riding make any difference positive or negative to the running of the bike over the next hour or so?

For my experience the 3 min warm up only served to get past the particularly nasty running just after initial startup. I played with this some and my primary issue was if it died just after startup, say running for 30 sec or so, it was a real beast to restart. So letting it warm up past that point at least allowed it to restart reasonably well and it was slightly more predictable in it's stumbles/fumbles so I could throttle through them ..... for the most part.

You will recall my statement that it took me a while to "unlearn" my riding technique for the bike and to trust it.

I really am not sure about the issue of the bike continuing to run funky throughout the day, or at least more funky. Mine was pretty much always the same in that regard, or let's say the funk remained unchanged.

You are running fuel that is far better than what I get in California, I should be so lucky to have 100 octane Euro grade fuel. The only way to for me to get that is to buy race gas, I'm jealous there....... dang CA commie politicians, grrrr.

To all the guys who have fitted expensive ECU parameter mods, Power Commanders, Wukas, AIT Spoofers, AF-Xied, LC2 etc etc

Thanks for the reports that your bike runs better....SO IT @#%$ WELL SHOULD !!

The KTM 390 Duke has a similarly tuned single cylinder engine with FI and AIT/O2 variable mapping, it runs well where I live (same fuel and same atmospheric conditions) with no mods - BIG QUESTION....WHY?

Haha, you have a point about our bikes should run better after putting in $$$ and effort. Though if you read carefully between the lines some have had issues that continued, but reduced. Charlie still had a few issues with the AF-Xied, others have reported not perfect running with various spoofers over time as the ECU apparently can learn it's way around some of them. I will be honest in that while my bike runs awesome once it's started I'm still chasing an inconsistent cold start situation. It can get it to COLD start pretty well, but in that same period just after it's started to when it's reasonably warm, it can be a beast to restart. Hot start, zero problems. This is a work on progress for me in that regard. My next step is to check the valve clearances just to be certain I don't have a tight valve. I doubt it, but maybe....., I'll have to prove it myself and eliminate the possibility. I tried changing to the Iridium plugs, it didn't change the starting one bit. But I might see about altering the gap a bit to see if that changes anything.

What we all face is not being able to unlock the ECU and reflash it to run properly from the base. My Moto Guzzi Stelvio had a common issue in that it would die at the first intersection after the 1st startup like clockwork, every friggen day. Their cold start mapping was wrong. I had the ECU reflashed and it fixed that BS permanently. It's what the Yamaha Super Tenere guys go through to get that bike to run properly and without restrictions in several gears. My Ducati had similar issues, I have a remapped ECU and it runs flawless now. It's just common. So far my best experiences have come from fully remapped/reflashed ECUs, next after that add-on fuel management systems. If we could unlock the MM ECU on this bike I'm sure some people could make it run RIGHT.

We are all working to find ways to improve it based on what we have available. Very few, maybe a couple, have been satisfied with how the bike ran stock, I sure wasn't, only I accepted it going into the deal, as I had on many other bikes.

Comparing it to other bikes is a waste of your effort. They are simply other bikes. I've ridden so many bikes now that I fully understand they don't all run the same out of the gate, even from the same manufacturer. It often has to do with what it takes to get around the stupid regs and not each bike has the same combustion characteristics even though they "appear" to be comparable engines. For example, the Suzuki Vstrom 1000 ran like crap stock, yet their later Vstrom 650 ran great stock. What they did was improve on the combustion chamber etc. so it burned better, later adding twin plugs etc.

As mentioned, KTM guys have been struggling with several of their bikes, so they finally got it pretty good with the very latest offerings, but it took them a long time, around 8 years or so. Seriously, peruse the 990 Adventure threads on ADVrider under Orangecrush, you'll read endless tails of horrific FI mapping problems. The 690 went through similar issues for a long time, just within the past year or so has KTM ironed out these issues. The 390 is a brand new, clean slate, engine so they could apply all the knowledge gained so far to it. They only introduced FI on the EXC line in the couple years, up to that point they were all carb'd.

I think it's best to see if you can get your's to run well by whatever means seem to make sense for you. If you can't make it run satisfactorily then maybe you will have to move onto another bike, there aren't too many options.

Something that might make sense would be to have the dealer or ??? at least test out any sensors, and possibly the throttle position sensor in particular, to see if they are functioning correctly. I've read through some of the TE 449/501 threads on CH as a buddy of mine has a TE449 that runs like absolute crap (WORSE than my TR) and I'm trying to help him out. One thing those guys have found is to adjust the throttle position sensor from it's stock position to advance it some which fools the ECU into thinking the throttle is open more than it really is basically adding fuel. They have had some positive results from this on those bikes, but I don't know how it might translate for the TR, plus I know it's a royal PITA to just see the TPS, much less adjust it.

We're here to try and help you as much as we can. But I don't think any of us can answer the question why we have had to improve on how it runs, it just is, and there's not much changing that. Husky isn't going to do anything with that bike from now on, it's out of their hands after BMW sold them to KTM.

 

[drzcharlie]

Well said Dan.

 

[panter2001]

Thanks for the reply and I agree with you that in the case of getting the ECU Map correct the Emission Regs etc are the issue for all manufacturers and single cylinders suffer more than multis. Yes the KTM guys have some issues but in particular the Husky 650 seems to be more of a dog than any other I have ridden or researched so far.
You do get what you pay for, however sometimes we dont have to pay over the odds to get just enough - I am keen to hear from anyone who has tried the Dyno-Boost remedy in this respect as it is reasonably priced and would appear to address Air Temp and O2 sensor issues which is where most of the other available kits direct their mods. Power Commanders etc excepted as they go a lot further into the remapping than I think I really need to.

I simply wish to get the crappy running sorted for a reasonable outlay and if it is an easy fit that is a bonus too.
The bike itself is perfect for my needs, we do a lot of short touring trips, 80-100 km up over the mountains and it really is a nice ride with plenty of power and good fuel consumption. However rolling down off the nice mountain roads into the towns and villages it becomes a different beast, needing plenty of revs/clutch balancing to avoid the stumbling and random misfires which I often forget to manage. With a fully loaded bike we have often slowed behind traffic to have it simply stop and then the clutch in, pressing starter action ensues. This is not so bad but we have had a few stumbles in the middle of a slow tight bend, say in second gear at around 25-30 kmph and these are in my opinion the most dangerous and ones which I really wish to rectify with a reliable mod.

I am away at work at the moment, but my plan is to return next month, continue with the O2 spacer fitted and further experiment with different fuels as I am fortunate to have 91-93-95-97 and 100 octanes available locally from several different suppliers. I have tried 97 and 100, but there maybe some good results with 93 or 95 which I need to explore. In the meantime I will order a Dyna-Boost and fit it once I have established a good fuel to use.

Thanks for the nice pic, yes that statue is literally in my back yard. I am a Navigator myself and my interest in Magellan was the reason I first came to Lapu Lapu many years ago. Now having returned and been here nearly two years, I have purchased the Strada with the intention to enjoy more of beautiful Cebu and the rest of the Philippines.
Given the inherent problems with the bike, although I still consider it a good option ride, I am now considering purchasing a second bike, something a little different and possibly more reliable. The Kawasaki 650 Versys is reasonably priced and also has better dealer support in my area and could be one for me to consider. The guys who sold the Strada would love me to buy the 900 Nuda but it is simply too big and fast for the roads we have. They also deal in KTMs too and the Duke 390 is another fun ride I have in mind.
Meanwhile I will struggle on with the Strada and who knows, if the Dyna-Boost cures the stumbles, I will enjoy the ride more and forget the second bike.

Dear Mark
First of all HAPPY NEW YEAR !
I am the first Terra 650 owner in the Philippines, purchased my Husky Dec 2013 and have now 8000 km on the bike. I was in very remote places (jungle) with my Terra fell down a couple of times, even in a large river, the bike never let me down.
Maybe I can give you some tips regarding the TR650. First of all its a fantastic bike (had all kind of bikes from Vespa till Fireblade incl. Harleys under my ass for the past 35 years), it would be a shame to consider Kawa 650 Versys vs. your Husky.
As we all know, the bike has some ignition/mapping problems: solution --> one of the many spoofer/booster plugs as our dealer in Manila is not willing to support us with the necessary updated software for the ECU. I purchased the cheapest ($40) I could find on the net, its from Belgium and needs no temp. sensor replacement, its just a plug and works great, still here and there a stalling but very rarely, btw. the engine gets better and better with the kms. You really do not need Power Commander and such things, forget about that! Also No need for airbox mods etc.
As a professional mechanic I can tell you, the more you move away from the original settings of that fine piece of technology, the more troubles you go into...
Regarding the gasoline, I tried them all, best for me here in the Philippines is 95 octane. In remote places I had no choice than to run 91 which was terrible for that sophisticated engine, you easily can hear the different sound (knocking), I felt very sorry for my bike.
Regarding overheating, just do the Canisterectomy as described in this Forum, its all you need, but its a must.
The bike has 2 additional problems:
1. The chain, mine literally exploded just recently by driving over a Flyover in Manila at 7500 km, go for an aftermarket asap. I use a red GXW 520 chain from RK (Japan). DID or AFAM will do a good job as well.
2. Gear-shifting from 1. to 2nd gear is just terrible and gives frequently miss-shifting. Its no clutch problem, neither a chain tension problem as mentioned in this forum, its just an old fashion and terrible piece of German gear engineering, we have to live with. I found out best is to shift under power/load, means do not release the throttle for shifting and you will have the best results and almost no more problems.)
Last but not least: As I'm quite heavy 110kg (240lb) and I like a very responsive bike, I changed the transmission by putting 15/49 sprockets, means 1 tooth less in front (engine side) 2 additional teeth at the rear wheel. That works excellent for me, although the revs increase by around 700 at 100km/h in 5.gear , compared to before. I don't care much, as I like to get out my bike all I can, always. in other words I'm not babying my Terra. Did full rpm for an hour just recently, means I had 7000-7500rpm allmost constantly, speed 165-175km/h, seems the Husky loved that ride more than I did.
Hope my hints will help you to sort out some probs and get back a feel good for your Husky.
Btw, i'm in middle of planning my next big Island trip, 1-2 months travel all around the Phil. Had a similar trip with a Chinese 250 Enduro 2013 for 3 and half months in the rainy season. I had to use the creepy phil. ferries 14x to cross all the islands, that was the biggest danger of the whole journey.
Wish you all the best
Paolo Ganci

 

[Mark_H]

Dear Mark
First of all HAPPY NEW YEAR !

Hi Paulo,
Many thanks, all the best for you in 2015 too.

I am the first Terra 650 owner in the Philippines, purchased my Husky Dec 2013 and have now 8000 km on the bike. I was in very remote places (jungle) with my Terra fell down a couple of times, even in a large river, the bike never let me down.
Maybe I can give you some tips regarding the TR650. First of all its a fantastic bike (had all kind of bikes from Vespa till Fireblade incl. Harleys under my ass for the past 35 years), it would be a shame to consider Kawa 650 Versys vs. your Husky.

Yes I have had many bikes in my earlier days and used to Motocross a lot. I agree it is a great bike, my consideration of a K 650 Versys was not in preference to the Strada, but as a second maybe more rideable in city traffic, bike but with the ability to cope with the crap roads too.

As we all know, the bike has some ignition/mapping problems: solution --> one of the many spoofer/booster plugs as our dealer in Manila is not willing to support us with the necessary updated software for the ECU. I purchased the cheapest ($40) I could find on the net, its from Belgium and needs no temp. sensor replacement, its just a plug and works great, still here and there a stalling but very rarely, btw. the engine gets better and better with the kms.

I am not surprised at the Manila dealer being unsupportive, typical Philippines and also SE Asia issues, they all seem to just want to sell and run. Fortunately I have pretty good mechanical and electrical knowledge so barring a total disaster I hope to be able to go it alone anyway.

I haven't made any ignition/ecu mods other than fitting an Oxygen Sensor Spacer and that has made a huge difference. My stalls and stops are now occasional when previously they were almost continuous.

You really do not need Power Commander and such things, forget about that! Also No need for airbox mods etc.

I agree with you on the Airbox Mods, a complete waste of time and IMHO this has been seriously overhyped in this forum and on Adv Rider too. Guys may have had issues, but having run Dirt bikes for years, I am pretty sure the problem is nowhere near it is as destructive what it has been made out to be.
At first I was a little concerned and opened up the Air Filter for inspection, yes the fitting is ridiculously difficult, but in my case it works well.
I just checked a second time, at 3000 kms and even though it has been very dirty and dusty on and off road, there is absolutely no sign of anything getting past my filter and into the box - I even took a photo to prove how clean it was on the other side of the standard filter. My only plan is to get a replacement filter as soon as I can, and possibly a washable one.

As a professional mechanic I can tell you, the more you move away from the original settings of that fine piece of technology, the more troubles you go into...
Regarding the gasoline, I tried them all, best for me here in the Philippines is 95 octane. In remote places I had no choice than to run 91 which was terrible for that sophisticated engine, you easily can hear the different sound (knocking), I felt very sorry for my bike.

I run the best Gasoline I can get, and having experimented with them all, I find Petron Blaze 100 Ron to be a really good one. Other than that If i cannot get 100, I use Shell 97 Racing or Petron XCS.
I worked in the downstream Petroleum Industry for 30+ years and I know a lot of the brands come out of the same refinery/storage tank. For example, here in Cebu City I have sat and watched trucks of many brands and some with no logo at all come out of the same tank farm loaded for the various Gas Stations. However, I tried one tank of SeaOil 95 and never ever will again, the bike sounded like nuts and bolts in a tin can there was so much knocking and clattering in the top end under acceleration. So for me it is Petron 100 whenever possible from now on, plus I think if we stick to the same fuel then we remove one of the variables in our search for a decent running dog.

Regarding overheating, just do the Canisterectomy as described in this Forum, its all you need, but its a must.

Although I have not yet experienced any real overheating issues, even in the City traffic with the Air temp sensor reading 44C, I am planning the Cannisterecomy as soon as I can, and I will obtain and fit the extra fan that DanK did so well on his Terra.
The only thing I plan to do differently and I cannot see why other have not (maybe they have) is regarding the Purge Valve.
After all the result we seek is greater airflow through the radiator by removing the cannister restriction, nothing else. So I ask, why bother with the removal of the Purge Valve and the plugging of the Vacuum Line? Why not just remove the Cannister and its relevant hoses, but leave the Purge Valve and hose attached to the Throttle Body and let it carry on thinking it is working. The Valve is tucked up out of the way and controlled by the ECU, removing it has no benefits as far as I can tell.

The bike has 2 additional problems:
1. The chain, mine literally exploded just recently by driving over a Flyover in Manila at 7500 km, go for an aftermarket asap. I use a red GXW 520 chain from RK (Japan). DID or AFAM will do a good job as well.

Yes I agree, along with all the others here I am quite shocked to find the Original chain is such a POS. I will purchase a new one asap, and possibly change Sprockets/Gearing too as it is always best to get the complete set anyway - Where did you obtain yours??

2. Gear-shifting from 1. to 2nd gear is just terrible and gives frequently miss-shifting. Its no clutch problem, neither a chain tension problem as mentioned in this forum, its just an old fashion and terrible piece of German gear engineering, we have to live with. I found out best is to shift under power/load, means do not release the throttle for shifting and you will have the best results and almost no more problems.)
Last but not least: As I'm quite heavy 110kg (240lb) and I like a very responsive bike, I changed the transmission by putting 15/49 sprockets, means 1 tooth less in front (engine side) 2 additional teeth at the rear wheel. That works excellent for me, although the revs increase by around 700 at 100km/h in 5.gear , compared to before. I don't care much, as I like to get out my bike all I can, always. in other words I'm not babying my Terra. Did full rpm for an hour just recently, means I had 7000-7500rpm allmost constantly, speed 165-175km/h, seems the Husky loved that ride more than I did.
Hope my hints will help you to sort out some probs and get back a feel good for your Husky.

I don't have too much problem with Gear Shifting and have had some good long rides (loaded and unloaded) with occasional bursts up to 160 KM/hr, but generally I do not see much need to take the bike over its max Torque figure and stick to using it between 2000 and 6000 rpm mostly. It rides well, goes well and gives me great fuel figures too.

Btw, i'm in middle of planning my next big Island trip, 1-2 months travel all around the Phil. Had a similar trip with a Chinese 250 Enduro 2013 for 3 and half months in the rainy season. I had to use the creepy phil. ferries 14x to cross all the islands, that was the biggest danger of the whole journey.

I would love to do a longer Phils Tour and may even go further than Cebu in the very near future, but as a Marine Risk Professional I really am no fan of the ferries. We were on one yesterday, a small pumpboat with a Pax Limit of 40, yet it carried 120+ people and 4 motorbikes (fortunately not mine), plus all other stores etc, all in rough weather and could only manage 5 knots instead of the normal 9. Scary stuff and to be avoided wherever possible.

Cheers for the info and update. I am just awaiting news on a set of purpose made Crash Bars and a Radiator Guard from a guy in Manila, lets hope they are as good as they look on his bike.

MH

 

[danketchpel]

I agree with you on the Airbox Mods, a complete waste of time and IMHO this has been seriously overhyped in this forum and on Adv Rider too. Guys may have had issues, but having run Dirt bikes for years, I am pretty sure the problem is nowhere near it is as destructive what it has been made out to be.
At first I was a little concerned and opened up the Air Filter for inspection, yes the fitting is ridiculously difficult, but in my case it works well.

I just checked a second time, at 3000 kms and even though it has been very dirty and dusty on and off road, there is absolutely no sign of anything getting past my filter and into the box - I even took a photo to prove how clean it was on the other side of the standard filter. My only plan is to get a replacement filter as soon as I can, and possibly a washable one.

I think if you can get the upper surface of the filter cartridge to seal reliably against the airbox you're good to go. I decided to go the POD Mod route only because I didn't see a good way to get it to seal other than using the 3D printed frame. I posted up my quicky fix, mostly just using some foam strip to push the filter element up snug against the top of the airbox surface.

If you can open up the top of the airbox and check that you're not getting dirt leaking past the filter then you're golden. If you see dirt residue then it's time to improve things.

I would love to do a longer Phils Tour and may even go further than Cebu in the very near future, but as a Marine Risk Professional I really am no fan of the ferries. We were on one yesterday, a small pumpboat with a Pax Limit of 40, yet it carried 120+ people and 4 motorbikes (fortunately not mine), plus all other stores etc, all in rough weather and could only manage 5 knots instead of the normal 9. Scary stuff and to be avoided wherever possible.

Cheers for the info and update. I am just awaiting news on a set of purpose made Crash Bars and a Radiator Guard from a guy in Manila, lets hope they are as good as they look on his bike.

MH

I'd love to do more motorcycle touring in P.I. if I could secure a decent bike to ride when I'm there. I don't know if there are any shops that rent bigger bikes in Cebu or not. I've mostly borrowed smaller bikes from relatives when I've ridden there.

I totally agree about the ferries there, some are OK, others not so much. And way too often they are overloaded, just like the Jeepneys. I watched one ferry come into port severely overloaded with large trucks. I was glad not to be on it. Fortunately the one we did take was much less loaded.

 

[Mark_H]

I think if you can get the upper surface of the filter cartridge to seal reliably against the airbox you're good to go.
If you can open up the top of the airbox and check that you're not getting dirt leaking past the filter then you're golden. If you see dirt residue then it's time to improve things.

I have taken pictures of the inside of the airbox on the small landing just past the filter and have seen nothing, it is almost spotlessly clean so I am confident my seal is good and the filter is doing its job properly. I may use my USB Snake Cam to take a further look inside the box, but really it is not necessary.

IMHO the whole Air Filter thing has been hyped to excess both here and on Adv Rider. I agree the construction is not perfect and could be improved upon, but the amount of dirt passing the filter is still minimal.
Years ago we ran dirt bikes with nothing but a piece of my Mums old stocking stretched across the bellmouth. Some bikes even came manufactured
with open bellmouths with only a thin wire mesh to stop big particles.
We never had any engine issues and some of our engines were as highly tuned as the ones of today, they ran in dirt dust and all bad conditions with no problem at all.

I'd love to do more motorcycle touring in P.I. if I could secure a decent bike to ride when I'm there. I don't know if there are any shops that rent bigger bikes in Cebu or not. I've mostly borrowed smaller bikes from relatives when I've ridden there.

Here in Lapu-Lapu we have a great bikers bar and hotel, very close to the airport. Rooms are good, big clean and cheap (from 850-1500 pesos a night) and the bar is great with excellent food too.
They rent out bike of all sizes, scooters, YBR 125 and they also currently have 2 brand new Kawasaki 650 Versys for hire.
The Versys are perfect for the roads and come with crash bars and luggage for longer trips out and about.
Rates include full insurance and are 2000 pesos a day short term (1-5 days), with longer hirings negotiable.

I totally agree about the ferries there, some are OK, others not so much. And way too often they are overloaded, just like the Jeepneys. I watched one ferry come into port severely overloaded with large trucks. I was glad not to be on it. Fortunately the one we did take was much less loaded.

I have not yet used any of the vehicle ro-ro ferries, only the basic pumpboats between islands. Up in Malapascua, Baantayan and also in Boracay my experience was everything pretty good with passenger numbers counted and within limits - plus lifesaving equipment was what I would consider adequate.
The ferry I was on ran from Lapu-lapu to Olango Island and it is pretty obvious what is going on there.
It is a very busy service at times and there would be ample work for 2-4 boats running back n forth, however there is only one. It is quite obvious that the owner has managed (by some form of corruption) to gain total control of the route and using only one boat and crew to do the work of three or four boats he is making money at the expense of passenger safety (+3x overload) and comfort. There was no adequate lifesaving equipment and it was clear the boat had not been subject to any regulatory inspection for some time.

 

[danketchpel]

Thanks for the heads up about the rental bikes, that might work out well for the next trip there.

That ferry was running from Danao port to Comotes Island. We spent a few days on Comotes island. We rented a small bike there (125) and rode around the island.

I've only used the pump boats for short distance island hopping off the coast of Cebu. Other times I've used the Super Cat for longer runs.

 

[panter2001]

Hi Paulo,
Many thanks, all the best for you in 2015 too.


I am not surprised at the Manila dealer being unsupportive, typical Philippines and also SE Asia issues, they all seem to just want to sell and run. Fortunately I have pretty good mechanical and electrical knowledge so barring a total disaster I hope to be able to go it alone anyway.

I fully agree with the general service practice in the Philippines. Believe it or not but I still have no plate after 13 months of riding, get all kind of excuses from the shop. Did postpone my trip several times, because I'm worried to get into a provincial Police trap and get the bike confiscated by any reason.
But now I am not willing anymore, to let rule my life by the dealer and I will take the risk, my trip starts 1st week of February 2015.



I haven't made any ignition/ecu mods other than fitting an Oxygen Sensor Spacer and that has made a huge difference. My stalls and stops are now occasional when previously they were almost continuous.

Hmm, I don't know that mod, what is the technical purpose of it?



I agree with you on the Airbox Mods, a complete waste of time and IMHO this has been seriously overhyped in this forum and on Adv Rider too. Guys may have had issues, but having run Dirt bikes for years, I am pretty sure the problem is nowhere near it is as destructive what it has been made out to be.
At first I was a little concerned and opened up the Air Filter for inspection, yes the fitting is ridiculously difficult, but in my case it works well.
I just checked a second time, at 3000 kms and even though it has been very dirty and dusty on and off road, there is absolutely no sign of anything getting past my filter and into the box - I even took a photo to prove how clean it was on the other side of the standard filter. My only plan is to get a replacement filter as soon as I can, and possibly a washable one.



I run the best Gasoline I can get, and having experimented with them all, I find Petron Blaze 100 Ron to be a really good one. Other than that If i cannot get 100, I use Shell 97 Racing or Petron XCS.
I worked in the downstream Petroleum Industry for 30+ years and I know a lot of the brands come out of the same refinery/storage tank. For example, here in Cebu City I have sat and watched trucks of many brands and some with no logo at all come out of the same tank farm loaded for the various Gas Stations. However, I tried one tank of SeaOil 95 and never ever will again, the bike sounded like nuts and bolts in a tin can there was so much knocking and clattering in the top end under acceleration. So for me it is Petron 100 whenever possible from now on, plus I think if we stick to the same fuel then we remove one of the variables in our search for a decent running dog.

I go always for Shell 95 and I agree with you that those local No-name brand can be difficult, especially out in the province, maybe they are stretching their stuff to make more profit or they are not servicing the equipment which results in poor quality.
regarding the octane I consider to reflect regarding higher is better. But for sure to low octane can damage on a long term base.


Although I have not yet experienced any real overheating issues, even in the City traffic with the Air temp sensor reading 44C, I am planning the Cannisterecomy as soon as I can, and I will obtain and fit the extra fan that DanK did so well on his Terra.
The only thing I plan to do differently and I cannot see why other have not (maybe they have) is regarding the Purge Valve.
After all the result we seek is greater airflow through the radiator by removing the cannister restriction, nothing else. So I ask, why bother with the removal of the Purge Valve and the plugging of the Vacuum Line? Why not just remove the Cannister and its relevant hoses, but leave the Purge Valve and hose attached to the Throttle Body and let it carry on thinking it is working. The Valve is tucked up out of the way and controlled by the ECU, removing it has no benefits as far as I can tell.

Guess additional fan is not necessary(when ON, my fan brings the temp down quickly) and might again congest the now better air flow right after Canisterectomy. Regarding the removal technique, both way are OK, important is to get rid of the canister and pipes.

I will purchase a new one asap, and possibly change Sprockets/Gearing too as it is always best to get the complete set anyway - Where did you obtain yours??

I got my chain and sprocket from Germany, they have good online shops.
www.cea.de for the chain

The sprockets were more tricky to find, I got mine from AFAM, but important is, you have to look for BMW G650 sprockets, there is not much if you look for Husky.


I don't have too much problem with Gear Shifting and have had some good long rides (loaded and unloaded) with occasional bursts up to 160 KM/hr, but generally I do not see much need to take the bike over its max Torque figure and stick to using it between 2000 and 6000 rpm mostly. It rides well, goes well and gives me great fuel figures too.



I would love to do a longer Phils Tour and may even go further than Cebu in the very near future, but as a Marine Risk Professional I really am no fan of the ferries. We were on one yesterday, a small pumpboat with a Pax Limit of 40, yet it carried 120+ people and 4 motorbikes (fortunately not mine), plus all other stores etc, all in rough weather and could only manage 5 knots instead of the normal 9. Scary stuff and to be avoided wherever possible.

I give you that, the real danger are the ferries when having a trip in this country, check my attachment (Trip plan), you'll see I have 8 ferries to take...

Cheers for the info and update. I am just awaiting news on a set of purpose made Crash Bars and a Radiator Guard from a guy in Manila, lets hope they are as good as they look on his bike.

MH

 

[drzcharlie]

The reposting the above thread made me want to reiterate that NOT doing the airbox mod can/will lead to engine failure. Both failed engines documented on this forum and on ADV were the result of dirt ingestion into the engine. You can fix it or you can watch your engine deteriorate. Your choice. To be so naive as to think that ALL bikes are engineered so that the airbox is a stellar piece of engineering is just plain stupid.

 

[Mark_H]

The reposting the above thread made me want to reiterate that NOT doing the airbox mod can/will lead to engine failure. Both failed engines documented on this forum and on ADV were the result of dirt ingestion into the engine. You can fix it or you can watch your engine deteriorate. Your choice. To be so naive as to think that ALL bikes are engineered so that the airbox is a stellar piece of engineering is just plain stupid.

I am neither naive nor stupid, nor do I consider any part of my TR 650 to be stellar engineering, however having checked my Airbox twice in 3000+ very dusty KM I find that my Filter not only fits well, but it appears that it is doing its job properly.
Therefore I consider that I am not watching my engine deteriorate by not doing the modification which is at the moment unnecessary.
As for failed the engines due to dirt ingestion - I consider that it is one possible cause, and that's all.

At present, in my case...Not doing the Airbox Mod will not lead to my engine failing. If I subsequently have issues and find anything passing my filter then I will most likely carry out some form of modification, but not necessarily the Pod Mod as described in these forums. IMHO it is an excessive step that I do not see the need to take.
The filter frame mods are in my opinion the way to go, no need to cut half the bike apart either.

 

[Mark_H]

Back to my original post and ideas on making this dog run properly......

I am still sitting on the fence with regard to how to go about curing the running issues. There is still a lot of information being posted in these pages about Spoofers, Re-Maps, AFR Adjusters etc and I find all the different experiences very interesting.

Originally I had the terrible Lean Stumble at around 1900-2300 rpm, it was unpredictable and often dangerous.
For the purpose of the experiment I have stuck to the same fuel from the same Gas Station throughout - Petron Blaze Euro4 100 RON.

So far I have fitted a Lambda Spacer, performed the De-Cat of the exhausts and the Cannisterectomy. I also perform the 3 minute warm up procedure whenever I can.
I have never had the bike MOSS'd and I have also not followed or carried out the ECU Reset procedure for the last 2000 km.

I have the following to offer:

My cold lean stumble has not totally gone away but it occurs less frequently and I am able to drive around it much more than I first did. I observed this improvement immediately after fitting the Lambda Spacer.
The bike runs much cooler and in the stage from warmed up to being hot it does not stumble or struggle to pull through the rev range, in fact it is quite nice to ride. Observed since Cannisterectomy and De-Cat.

I ride between 2000 and 5500 rpm pretty much everywhere, I rarely have any need to go over 6000 rpm, even on open roads.
Air temperatures and humidity are in the high ranges 30-40C and 70-80% but they are pretty constant. I do notice an improvement in the running of the bike when it is cooler at night - but this is pretty much the same for all bikes I ever had (Cooler Air density and improved combustion etc).

When the bike gets up to its max temperature with fan cutting in and out, especially in traffic, the engine is at its worst. It stumbles and coughs, farts, splutters and even stops fairly often and in particular between 1900 and 2300 RPM - It is a dog to ride.
Example - Low speed, in traffic, to stop it stumbling, I have to run higher revs in first gear or slip the clutch in second. Then worst of all as the traffic speeds up and I am changing from second to third at say 3000 rpm, the revs drop and it splutters or quite often stops - all whilst travelling at 30+ kmph and often at the most critical time.

Reading in the Spoofer Threads this is described as the extreme lean condition between 1750 and 2300 rpm and as far as I am concerned I really need to fix only that.

Interestingly inspection of my exhausts, internally during the de-cat reveals that they are as clean as a whistle. No Carbon deposits, grey or black whatsoever.
After any ride (when cooled down) I can put my finger into the exhausts and it comes out totally clean, there are simply no deposits at all.

So....where do I go from here ??

My next move is to try and source a MOSS or similar piece of kit to possibly update the ECU Map, if there is one available.
I have a guy here who has tuned and remapped many BMWs but he is not keen to do mine due to the Immobiliser System, he says there is the possibility that it would render the Bike/ECU dead and he will not risk it.

I have had contact with several other Husky Owners in Philippines, but none of them has made any modifications at all. All the BMW bike owners I have talked to get back-street re-maps and resets done using GPR and other similar equipment - they seem to be successful, but I am wary of this at present.
The truth is that information is pretty thin on the ground - Lots of guys say they know how to do it, but in reality they don't even understand the Lambda Spacer theory and I am pretty sure they know less about the necessary changes to the ECU map too.

Cheers, MH

 

[wferrari]

I'll throw my cents and list what I've done to my Strada in order to reach my personal bike "Nirvana", or bikervana:

1. EJK. Installing it fixed any weakness coming out of idle, and greatly improved the mid rpm performances as well. I reckon that any O2 sensor spoofer would get the same results.
2. Unifilter sponge air filter. I use my bike 99% on tarmac, so most of my riding does not involve a lot of dust. The airbox is still clean, so I don't feel the need to perform the airbox mod for now, although I have the 3d printed filter dock ready to be installed. In any case the Unifilter filter, while a little noisier, has really helped the engine, especially in the mid/high rpms.
3. Brisks AR10ZS spark plugs. This is by far the most surprising upgrade considering the expectations. The engines is much smoother and more responsive in the low rpms, and the overall feeling is the same one I get when driving a more powerful twin. The surprise comes from the fact that the OEM plugs are well considered as well.
4. 15t front sprocket. This is IMHO a must, even thou you'll end up missing the sixth gear even more. I drive mostly in an urban environment, and the few occasions in which I ride in the highways, I tend not to go over 140 Km/h..too much wind! In any case, if you drive mainly in the city, the shorter 1st and, more importantly, 2nd gears really help with the overall drivability of the bike, despite the occasional, unintentional half-wheelies.
5. Castrol chain vax. It may look like someone vomited on your chain, and I'm not sure if it helps with the overall performance, but I can assure you that it will prolong the life of your chain, and also reduce the noise by quite a bit. I had to use the Motul stuff for a while, mainly because that's what was placed at the factory and at the first service. But ever since I emptied the oil can I switched back to vax. On my commute to work I ride through a section with Jersey barriers on both sides, and I could really notice the difference of noise before and after I degreased the chain and applied the vax.

So the bike is now not only a fun bike to ride, but quite a performer too. I was planning on getting the single GRP exhaust as well, but at this point I don't really feel the need to get it. Beside, the stock exhausts are IMHO quite nice on the eyes as well as on the ears, plus I don't want to transform my bike into a heads turner, like many KTM owners are seemingly eager to.

 

[HuskyKT]

I have read most of this post and forgot a lot of what I read. My Terra runs fairly well but could be improved. It has had the MOS treatment which helped.

Question, Out of all the discussions and different spoofers is there any consensus as to which one is working the best?

 

[drzcharlie]

Most (not all) who have tried AIT spoofers will tell you they become negated at some point by the ECU. However, the Booster Plug seems to be the exception to this.

 

[Mark_H]

I'll throw my cents and list what I've done to my Strada in order to reach my personal bike "Nirvana", or bikervana:

1. EJK. Installing it fixed any weakness coming out of idle, and greatly improved the mid rpm performances as well. I reckon that any O2 sensor spoofer would get the same results.
2. Unifilter sponge air filter. I use my bike 99% on tarmac, so most of my riding does not involve a lot of dust. The airbox is still clean, so I don't feel the need to perform the airbox mod for now, although I have the 3d printed filter dock ready to be installed. In any case the Unifilter filter, while a little noisier, has really helped the engine, especially in the mid/high rpms.
3. Brisks AR10ZS spark plugs. This is by far the most surprising upgrade considering the expectations. The engines is much smoother and more responsive in the low rpms, and the overall feeling is the same one I get when driving a more powerful twin. The surprise comes from the fact that the OEM plugs are well considered as well.
4. 15t front sprocket. This is IMHO a must, even thou you'll end up missing the sixth gear even more. I drive mostly in an urban environment, and the few occasions in which I ride in the highways, I tend not to go over 140 Km/h..too much wind! In any case, if you drive mainly in the city, the shorter 1st and, more importantly, 2nd gears really help with the overall drivability of the bike, despite the occasional, unintentional half-wheelies.
5. Castrol chain vax. It may look like someone vomited on your chain, and I'm not sure if it helps with the overall performance, but I can assure you that it will prolong the life of your chain, and also reduce the noise by quite a bit. I had to use the Motul stuff for a while, mainly because that's what was placed at the factory and at the first service. But ever since I emptied the oil can I switched back to vax. On my commute to work I ride through a section with Jersey barriers on both sides, and I could really notice the difference of noise before and after I degreased the chain and applied the vax.

So the bike is now not only a fun bike to ride, but quite a performer too. I was planning on getting the single GRP exhaust as well, but at this point I don't really feel the need to get it. Beside, the stock exhausts are IMHO quite nice on the eyes as well as on the ears, plus I don't want to transform my bike into a heads turner, like many KTM owners are seemingly eager to.

Thanks for the information it all sounds good and apparently has not involved too much messing with the stock bike either.
I would thoroughly recommend the Exhaust De Cat and the Cannisterectomy as they also offer good improvement and no change of 'look' either.
My riding has been in heavy city traffic this past week and having a cooler running bike has made a big difference.

Cheers, MH

 

[Mark_H]

Most (not all) who have tried AIT spoofers will tell you they become negated at some point by the ECU. However, the Booster Plug seems to be the exception to this.

I agree Charlie.
There is a 'Vote' running on the Spoofer Experience thread which shows info on adaptation experiences, but unfortunately it does not give enough details as to which spoofer was fitted.

I would be interested to know why the Booster Plug seems to be different to any of the others.

 

[Hansi]

I'll throw my cents and list what I've done to my Strada in order to reach my personal bike "Nirvana", or bikervana:

1. EJK. Installing it fixed any weakness coming out of idle, and greatly improved the mid rpm performances as well. I reckon that any O2 sensor spoofer would get the same results.
2. Unifilter sponge air filter. I use my bike 99% on tarmac, so most of my riding does not involve a lot of dust. The airbox is still clean, so I don't feel the need to perform the airbox mod for now, although I have the 3d printed filter dock ready to be installed. In any case the Unifilter filter, while a little noisier, has really helped the engine, especially in the mid/high rpms.
3. Brisks AR10ZS spark plugs. This is by far the most surprising upgrade considering the expectations. The engines is much smoother and more responsive in the low rpms, and the overall feeling is the same one I get when driving a more powerful twin. The surprise comes from the fact that the OEM plugs are well considered as well.
4. 15t front sprocket. This is IMHO a must, even thou you'll end up missing the sixth gear even more. I drive mostly in an urban environment, and the few occasions in which I ride in the highways, I tend not to go over 140 Km/h..too much wind! In any case, if you drive mainly in the city, the shorter 1st and, more importantly, 2nd gears really help with the overall drivability of the bike, despite the occasional, unintentional half-wheelies.
5. Castrol chain vax. It may look like someone vomited on your chain, and I'm not sure if it helps with the overall performance, but I can assure you that it will prolong the life of your chain, and also reduce the noise by quite a bit. I had to use the Motul stuff for a while, mainly because that's what was placed at the factory and at the first service. But ever since I emptied the oil can I switched back to vax. On my commute to work I ride through a section with Jersey barriers on both sides, and I could really notice the difference of noise before and after I degreased the chain and applied the vax.

So the bike is now not only a fun bike to ride, but quite a performer too. I was planning on getting the single GRP exhaust as well, but at this point I don't really feel the need to get it. Beside, the stock exhausts are IMHO quite nice on the eyes as well as on the ears, plus I don't want to transform my bike into a heads turner, like many KTM owners are seemingly eager to.

Which EJK did you install ? Don't see one listed for the 650 Husky on the website.

 

[mag00]

I'll throw my cents and list what I've done to my Strada in order to reach my personal bike "Nirvana", or bikervana:

1. EJK. Installing it fixed any weakness coming out of idle, and greatly improved the mid rpm performances as well. I reckon that any O2 sensor spoofer would get the same results.
2. Unifilter sponge air filter. I use my bike 99% on tarmac, so most of my riding does not involve a lot of dust. The airbox is still clean, so I don't feel the need to perform the airbox mod for now, although I have the 3d printed filter dock ready to be installed. In any case the Unifilter filter, while a little noisier, has really helped the engine, especially in the mid/high rpms.
3. Brisks AR10ZS spark plugs. This is by far the most surprising upgrade considering the expectations. The engines is much smoother and more responsive in the low rpms, and the overall feeling is the same one I get when driving a more powerful twin. The surprise comes from the fact that the OEM plugs are well considered as well.
4. 15t front sprocket. This is IMHO a must, even thou you'll end up missing the sixth gear even more. I drive mostly in an urban environment, and the few occasions in which I ride in the highways, I tend not to go over 140 Km/h..too much wind! In any case, if you drive mainly in the city, the shorter 1st and, more importantly, 2nd gears really help with the overall drivability of the bike, despite the occasional, unintentional half-wheelies.
5. Castrol chain vax. It may look like someone vomited on your chain, and I'm not sure if it helps with the overall performance, but I can assure you that it will prolong the life of your chain, and also reduce the noise by quite a bit. I had to use the Motul stuff for a while, mainly because that's what was placed at the factory and at the first service. But ever since I emptied the oil can I switched back to vax. On my commute to work I ride through a section with Jersey barriers on both sides, and I could really notice the difference of noise before and after I degreased the chain and applied the vax.

So the bike is now not only a fun bike to ride, but quite a performer too. I was planning on getting the single GRP exhaust as well, but at this point I don't really feel the need to get it. Beside, the stock exhausts are IMHO quite nice on the eyes as well as on the ears, plus I don't want to transform my bike into a heads turner, like many KTM owners are seemingly eager to.

3+4

I have a single can and pod mod to go along with that. Bike runs perfect.

 

[wferrari]

Which EJK did you install ? Don't see one listed for the 650 Husky on the website.

I'm using the one designed for the BMW 650GS. AFAIK the one that was programmed for the TR650 is still having some issues, and that's probably why it's not officially marketed yet.

 

[Ogre_fl]

Most (not all) who have tried AIT spoofers will tell you they become negated at some point by the ECU. However, the Booster Plug seems to be the exception to this.

The poll on my spoofer thread shows more don't have issues with the ECU negating the spoofer than those who do.
I also know that those having issues tend to post more about having issues and be more engaged in threads on the subject than those who don't have issues.
This tends to sway the perceived ratio of issues, its the nature of the beast.

I know you have had issues, some of the worse, but I would guess most (not all) don't have issues.