• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Making the Dog run as it should

I have both spoofers and the eruption is just a little leaner and works fine on the stock muffler and air box except in very cold weather. I have been watching and waiting to see how this plays out. I have decided to 1 remove the lambda sensor, 2 go back to stock air temp sensor, 3 install the Weisco FMC038 power card from the 01-04 F650 BMW, seal the stock air box, 4 run the foam Uni air filter ( already in use), 5 core the stock pipes to remove the Cats, 6 put in the brisk AR10Z plugs ( this bike is very sensitive to plug wear), 7 ( already done) add 2 teeth to the rear sprocket......all this at the 7000 mile service when I do a valve check. M2C
 
I just spoke to Matt @ Dobeck. He's been working with me in fine tuning the test EJK for the TR650. He needs to do a final run through with all the testers so that he can compare notes before they will release the "official" version of the EJK. I still get a stumble when I give it a lot of throttle, left off, and attempt to get back on it. They really need a bike in house to get a perfect tune. So, if anybody is Montana, let them know.

My bike has died twice now since installing the EJK. It seems to be weather-related. If it's below say 45*, when I first start the, it is very sluggish. I know when it is going to happen.
 
NorthnTerraTory said:
What is the oxygen sensor spacer? How does it change the way the bike runs?
Click to expand...


Plenty of info here...

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/question-idea-regarding-02-sensor.44994/

A pic of the item as fitted.

TR 650 O2 Fix.jpg

Simple stuff, and IMHO not fully explored by most owners here. In the car tuning game these are common and freely available on Fleabay, or I have the dimensions if you wish to make your own.

Cheers, MH

PS. Lets see how long this post takes to achieve moderation and be shown in the thread - I have been waiting ten days for others :banghead:
 
I did a test with an AFR plot a while back. I tried a 1" spacer and it did nothing when viewing it on the chart logger. No change in AFR what so ever. Shorter or longer might make a difference but that would have to be determined.
 
drzcharlie said:
I did a test with an AFR plot a while back. I tried a 1" spacer and it did nothing when viewing it on the chart logger. No change in AFR what so ever. Shorter or longer might make a difference but that would have to be determined.
Click to expand...


The O2 Spoofer I fitted was 51mm (2") and it definitely had a positive effect on the 'stumbles' and made the bike easier to ride in traffic. It did not cure the cr*ppy running totally but it did make an improvement.
I do not have the means of measuring the AFR but 'ride and feel' works as a reasonable gauge for me.
 
In the past two weeks while unable to post on this forum due to Moderation issues, I have played around with the AIT Sensor on my bike.
This has already been posted over on AdvRider, apologies to those who read both forums and have already commented etc.

I ran some static tests and came to the conclusion that as noted by others here, the AIT sensor is in the wrong position on the bike - another big design fault IMHO.

I run my bike in fairly hot and humid conditions and I am quite sure that air temperature input to the ECU is critical in having my engine run at its best.

With bike 'cold' the AIT sensor reading was 30.5C, running stationary and the cooling fan cutting in and out 3 times the AIT sensor reading went up to 45C which is a totally false reading. Incredibly with the engine stopped the AIT sensor reading went up to 51C with the heat soak.

So...I moved the sensor to a position at the front of the bike.

mini-IMG_1543.JPG

This position is achievable without changing any of the original wiring.
Be sure to bung the original sensor hole in the airbox with something that cannot be sucked up into the throttle body.

Do not be tempted to place the sensor too close to the frame as the Oil in the Tank is at around 80C and has a similar false reading effect.

In this position the results were amazing, the temperature readings were much more true and the bike ran really well.
Although there was still some 'heating' and a rise in the reading when stopped in traffic, temps were about 8C lower than previously experienced.

The bike still had the splutters and farts when pulling away after being stopped in traffic, but as soon as cool air was flowing over the sensor everything was really good again. Power delivery was smooth right thorough the rev range and the bike was a joy to ride, most noticeable difference being on the overrun with much less engine braking and no backfires.

Using the old methods (no computer wizardry) to check how my engine is actually running I found 'Finger up Exhaust' reveals them to be as clean as a whistle, virtually no deposits and when inspected the spark plugs are a nice chocolate colour so all is good.

I was pretty much happy with my progress in this respect, but still had room for improvement. Basically I wanted to remove the 'in traffic' heating and see if I could get rid off the hot pull away farts n splutters.

So onto my next idea, possibly the Coolest AIT Spoofer yet.......

Cheers, MH
 
Mark_H said:
In the past two weeks while unable to post on this forum due to Moderation issues, I have played around with the AIT Sensor on my bike.
This has already been posted over on AdvRider, apologies to those who read both forums and have already commented etc.

I ran some static tests and came to the conclusion that as noted by others here, the AIT sensor is in the wrong position on the bike - another big design fault IMHO.

I run my bike in fairly hot and humid conditions and I am quite sure that air temperature input to the ECU is critical in having my engine run at its best.

With bike 'cold' the AIT sensor reading was 30.5C, running stationary and the cooling fan cutting in and out 3 times the AIT sensor reading went up to 45C which is a totally false reading. Incredibly with the engine stopped the AIT sensor reading went up to 51C with the heat soak.

So...I moved the sensor to a position at the front of the bike.

View attachment 51680

This position is achievable without changing any of the original wiring.
Be sure to bung the original sensor hole in the airbox with something that cannot be sucked up into the throttle body.

Do not be tempted to place the sensor too close to the frame as the Oil in the Tank is at around 80C and has a similar false reading effect.

In this position the results were amazing, the temperature readings were much more true and the bike ran really well.
Although there was still some 'heating' and a rise in the reading when stopped in traffic, temps were about 8C lower than previously experienced.

The bike still had the splutters and farts when pulling away after being stopped in traffic, but as soon as cool air was flowing over the sensor everything was really good again. Power delivery was smooth right thorough the rev range and the bike was a joy to ride, most noticeable difference being on the overrun with much less engine braking and no backfires.

Using the old methods (no computer wizardry) to check how my engine is actually running I found 'Finger up Exhaust' reveals them to be as clean as a whistle, virtually no deposits and when inspected the spark plugs are a nice chocolate colour so all is good.

I was pretty much happy with my progress in this respect, but still had room for improvement. Basically I wanted to remove the 'in traffic' heating and see if I could get rid off the hot pull away farts n splutters.

So onto my next idea, possibly the Coolest AIT Spoofer yet.......

Cheers, MH
Click to expand...
I've thought about this too, I really do think the heat of the engine has been causing the temp reading to be high. If it just got an accurate reading we wouldn't be having any problems.
 
Here's the real fix

microsquirt.gif
 
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