drzcharlie
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Nice job.
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
Last job...a test-"sit" to check for clearance and "room-to-move" in the saddle + standing up.
While this particular bag is a touch too big for the Husky (just by proportions), it all fits like a glove and even looks like it was designed for it in the first place.
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Check....lock-to-lock clearance.
No killswitch touching the bag, hurray!
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Ergos? Fine...nothing in the way sitting or standing
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An old "City" model bag that's given up the ghost years ago, provides a spare "bag"-mechanism, the top half of the "click 'n go" tankbag principle.
If/ when I come across a neat, small bag of any brand/ construction, I can use a thin piece of plastic sheeting as a floor stiffener, then bolt the spare bag-ring to it to make it a "Quicklock" bag.
AFAIK, SW has now decided to sell those rings separately as well, making it possible to convert most tankbags out there to the Quicklock system.
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A 21 front and 17 rear may be pushing the limits of the ABS system. Anyone tried it yet?A random thread about a little garage in Oz...and some ideas about farkling a Strada (yeah...just because it was one of the last TR's availablle and there weren't any Terras left, shrug).
Bought the bike to put on the blocks for the first 6months or so of its life, fiddle and farkle, get a feel and an idea of how it's put together, and make up some bits I reckon I'll need for my riding lateron.
It'll transform to a 21" front (when/ if I ever come across a suitable BMW wheel)... I might keep the 17 rear, 'cause there's plenty of rubber of choice around for the riding I plan to do with it.
And I hate fixing tubed hoops!Especially rears!
I'll update the thread with thoughts and pics as the project rolls along.
There's still a long summer + autumn/fall ahead
I'm running a 21 front and 17 rear with my strada. No problem so far with abs.A 21 front and 17 rear may be pushing the limits of the ABS system. Anyone tried it yet?
I'm running a 21 front and 17 rear with my strada. No problem so far with abs.
The ABS Terra's are 21"/17" stock, I've never had any problems.There was 1 person that found his 21/17 setup to be so close to the edge of working that he had to make sure the tires were properly inflated. I don't recall the exact setup he used, but there definitely are some posts about it here.
The ABS Terra's are 21"/17" stock, I've never had any problems.
All factory built TRs with ABS had 17" rears. Terras still had 21" front, Stradas 19".
Non-ABS Terras came with 18" rears, mine has the ABS plate on both front & rear hubs
Sorry glitch. Didn't mention that it's a 7 layer circuit board and the switch is surface mounted.
What I did was use a very fine needle to make a gap between the leg coming from the switch and the switch housing.
Then insert a fine wire with a spot of super glue.
I can always drop by one night.
Cheers.
Greg
Rear sprocket carrier bearings...another potentially disastrous (as in ride-busting) issue on the TR
Unlike most other carriers, this one has TWO both bearings, side-by-side. with a small spacer in between.
Both bearings extract/ insert from one side only.
Sorry for the slightly blurred shot, but still clearly visible....double-depth bearing seat, showing the recess for the retainer clip.
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Factory bearings are SKF Explorer 6204, 2 off...
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...and a generic 30x40x7MM seal
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The entire stack of bits and parts
Left-to-right as it belongs into the carrier:
1) Bearing at the bottom
2) retainer clip and spacer
3) the second bearing
4) seal
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As the bearing seat is double-depth, I knocked the core out of one of the old SKF's, cutting and de-burring the outer to use as a tool
when carefully knocking in the new bearings.
Which should make for nice, smooth travel and seating of the new bearing without going askew along the way, possibly damaging the seat of the upper bearing.
The slot allows sufficient give to extract the ring after the first bearing's in place.
![]()
Rear sprocket carrier bearings...another potentially disastrous (as in ride-busting) issue on the TR
Unlike most other carriers, this one has TWO both bearings, side-by-side. with a small spacer in between.
Both bearings extract/ insert from one side only.
Sorry for the slightly blurred shot, but still clearly visible....double-depth bearing seat, showing the recess for the retainer clip.
![]()
Factory bearings are SKF Explorer 6204, 2 off...
![]()
...and a generic 30x40x7MM seal
![]()
The entire stack of bits and parts
Left-to-right as it belongs into the carrier:
1) Bearing at the bottom
2) retainer clip and spacer
3) the second bearing
4) seal
![]()
As the bearing seat is double-depth, I knocked the core out of one of the old SKF's, cutting and de-burring the outer to use as a tool
when carefully knocking in the new bearings.
Which should make for nice, smooth travel and seating of the new bearing without going askew along the way, possibly damaging the seat of the upper bearing.
The slot allows sufficient give to extract the ring after the first bearing's in place.
![]()
When I did mine "just in case" used Niacini bearings from Japan - l removed the inner seal from each bearing then filled the space 50% with quality water resistant grease, this ensures adequate lubrication, virtually for ever
Also replaced the alloy spacers with stainless steel