But your still running open loop (no P/U mod) correct? So in your case PC or JD tuner would be near mandatory. Closed loop takes care of many of these issues although maybe not to the Nth degree to squeeze all potential out. But honestly the bike has all I need and then some, both on and off road. _
Ken before buying a tuner I would take your bike to Dyno shop with the iBeat. Not as adjustable as a PC or JD but you can pump some more fuel in the mix with the iBeat FB settings. I remember your bike is still at stock 100% settings for all three from when we reset your TPS. Those three settings roughly emulate pilot, needle and main jets on a carb. George at Uptite recommended 102/105/107 to me but I've never adjusted mine as still happy with performance as is so leaving good enough alone. My bike is FMF Powercore w/ quiet insert, P/U mod, 45T rear sprocket and EHS prefilter...but with an otherwise stock airbox cover. Prior I had airbox cover drilled and snorkle removed. Before installing EHS I bought a new cover and left intact. Couldn't tell a difference between the two and now have much better water protection. With right side exhaust and snorkle removed the rear tire would fling mud and water to the snorkle mount opening. My EHS is still water repellant and I don't even cover it when washing the bike. Replacement filters are only $15 so minor cost for an annual maintenance item. _
A little confused by your question. I remove the PU kit when I got the PC-V (it has it's own resistor plug) so yes I'm open loop now. You're also open loop w/ a PU kit. When I dyno'd it 100% stock (closed loop) it ran horrible which makes no sense (poor programming IMO). I suspect I could have gotten the bike to dyno almost the same numbers (as the PC-V) by making adjustments w/ iBeat and maybe that would have been the smarter route to go? I may find out since it looks like I'm going to be buying iBeat now... I'm going to have to recheck my tune now that I have the FMF exhaust. .
I reversed open and closed terms in my post. I thought I remembered you posting before that you would be keeping your bike closed loop by keeping lambda and letting PC-V tune around it. _
All things being equal I wish it was closed loop, but no, I didn't want to spring for the Autotune setup. And I was happy w/ Dynojets map. .
I have few questions for starters....i own sm 610 2008. It has Leox3, airbox mod, PUkit. I just bought Jd tuner. It is winter here, so testing will be done in spring. Is it better to use JD with PUkit or Lambda?
You won't get the full advantage of the JD with the Lambda still in place, as it will try to cut fuel when you add it. Not sure at what point you overwhelm the closed loop self-adjustments, but it probably won't be happy.
TE630 Stock ECU Stock pipes EHS Prefilter iBeat 100/100/100 95 RON 1630 metres (5350 feet) above sea level 23 degress celcius (78 farenheight) Green 3 Yellow 5 Red 6 Green/Blue 3 Yellow/Blue 3.5 RedBlue 5 I could never get Green to go beyond 3 without the bike being unhappy about it. The Green phases would constantly surge and was crappy to ride at constant speeds. So I changed iBeat to 98/100/100 and then put Green at 4 The Result ? The Green phase is muuuuuch better. Bike rides smoother and the part throttle surging is gone. There is a bit more tiger in the tank as well because it is now easy to break traction comming out of black top corners at part throtle.
Agree. It´s easy to go too high in the middle. And then it runs unevenly, especially when throttle is reduced. RDTCU: Think the lambda will definitely have to go. If you´re worried about the legality of removing it, just tie the unplugged lead to the frame under the tank. And you can use the JD tuner now and re-tune in summer if you want. `Tis only a matter of seconds to press the button. You´ll see the advantage of the JD, especially when it gets colder.
Dealer should have it. If yours is like my dealer, he'll let you come in and play with it for free, but most dealers will charge by the hour...
FYI, I think I've heard the Husky OEM cable has a serial plug and many newer computers don't. The Semco one is USB.
Yeah, the Husky cable uses a 15pin serial. You can buy a 15pin to USB adapter, but it will need it's own drivers too.
I just got my JD tuner for my TE610 and have noticed the settings as received are different from the instructions. Could somebody help out with some TE610 settings? I've looked through 3 different threads and most were about the 630. I'm sure I've missed them somewhere,,, My settings are: Green 4/5 Yellow 3/4 Red 4/5 Green/ Blue 5 Yellow/Blue 3/4 Red/Blue 4/5 I have the P/U kit and the LV x3 muffler. Thanks!
Hi Guys, Just installed my Leo Vince full system and JD Tuner, airbox snorkel and maze removed. Haven't changed anything from the stock JD settings, and the first ride was just fine. Today however, while lane splitting, I discovered a lot of hesitation when I have to roll on and roll off repeatedly (or make minor speed adjustments) to adjust for the flow of traffic. As I was lane splitting, didn't have enough time to look down at the rpm but gut feel based on how I usually ride is that I was somewhere between 4k and 6k. I notice that most of you are quite a bit higher in numbers than I am, but I didn't want to just jump to someone else's settings because everything else about fueling seems fine (steady throttle cruising, firm roll on acceleration, no decel popping) even with the stock settings. I want to start tweaking in the midrange, but not sure if I need to tweak yellow or yellow/blue, or both. I know what each one "does" in terms of what it's adjusting, but I don't know how to translate that into solving my real world problem of hesitation. Thanks in advance for your help, Alex
What are your actual numbers? If your yellow is higher than your green, try dialing back your yellow/blue setting to something like 2. After that, try bumping your red/blue up a bit, which should help make it more responsive.
First, you need to know exactly what zone, in terms of green, yellow or red, you are in when between 4k and 6k and you feel the hesitation Testing at night makes the seeing the Tuner lights much easier Red/Blue plays a big role in roll-on acceleration. Particulary as far as green is concerned, I have found that a smaller green value and a higher red/blue value works very well for rolling on. Do you feel a lot of vibration comming from the engine, if so this a very good sign that you are running too rich in that zone and you need to lean out a bit. If no engine vibration then you have scope to add fuel. Also knowing what your iBeat settings are is important as it affects the scope of using your tuner. There is a thread somewhere here that explains breifly how iBeat (the software that is used to program the fuel injection system) works. I have found tht high iBeat values severley limits the amount of fuel you can add using the tuner. As a result I have lowered some of my iBeat values and now have much more tunning flexibilty with the tuner and my bike runs better as a result
