Living with a 2010 Husky TE 510!

Just found out why mines been overheating. Crack in the coolant recovery bottle. Might be something to look at. Good luck

Grasping at straws, but maybe you over heated the engine to the point of blowing a head gasket?

http://www.tooltopia.com/lisle-7550...utm_term=LIS75500&utm_campaign=googlebase_18u

Thats a simple test kit to determine if exhaust gas is entering the cooling system. Drain a little coolant out of the radiator, place the tester over the rad opening, with the vacuum line installed to engine. If the test fluid changes color then you have a blown head/gasket.

I think this latest hose failure is almost certainly a product of your previous overheating episode. On this ride without the PC installed was your rad fan still constantly running? You may have solved your overheating prob but you are still dealing with problems caused by the previous overheat. The headgasket advice above is very sound also!

Thanks for the info.



The next step for me is to check the overflow tank, and probably remove the radiators and flush the whole system to make sure everything is flowing properly.

One thing I have noticed on the Husky is that there is no way to burp/bleed the cooling system like on other bikes. Anything I'm missing?

I see you ran the crank case breather hose out to a little pod filter. I remember reading here that it should stay plumed in to the air box. Did you lock tite the screw on the cylinder vacume nipple hole? What about iBeat, have you had it on to make sure your FB, CO, TPS settings are good? Check the rad recovery bottle and line. Keep some coolant in there. I run reg. 'ole 50/50 pre mix from the auto parts store. I have our catch tanks half full and keep an eye on them before rides.

Did you source a Up-Tite Y yet? Time to get one and maybe those nice red silicone hoses from the special parts catalog.

Good luck with curing the overheating.

danbartol
check line which is between rad cup and recovery bottle.
mine was blocked with sand, it was like a plug!!

one of the first things I did.

Thanks

So I went through everything:

-overflow can and tube
-radiator cap
-flushed out the entire cooling system






- made sure the the cooling pump was running at idle speed:



and at higher RPM



made sure the fluid was flowing into the radiators:


and out of both radiators.

I let the water run through the system for approx 8 minutes to ensure everything was flushed out and clean.


I then buttoned everything back up and let the bike idle. It took exactly 6 minutes for the fan to come on. Once the fan was on I rode the bike down the block and back. By the time I got back to the garage the fan was off again.

Because of the altitude I ride at I don't think sticking w/ the Husky power-up mode is smart. It was probably designed for a few feet above sea level. So I re installed the PC-V and the Autotune modules and cleared everything out of it's memory and loaded the Husky Power-up map as a starting base line on which the autotune can build its own map.

Here is the base husky power-up map:



One of the things I did wrong before was assign a 13.2 value to all the first and second columns. As you can see the first should be blank and the second should only have a few cells populated.


I'll ride it around like this till I get the new hoses and see if anything more happens.

I hope you tipped the guy who gave you a spare radiator hose he just happened to be carrying to get a Husky out of just this sort of predicament.

Same guy who's Duck practically needed to be pushed home this weekend in the rain.

Those Italian bikes sure are fair weather prima donna's! :-)

I just did the O2 sensor test following the instruction manual:

O2 sensor test
• The Autotune kit has a built in circuit which allows you to test the sensor accuracy and condition.
• Remove the sensor from the exhaust system and hold in ambient air.
• Verify the Autotune kit has been powered up for at least 1 minute.
• Press and hold the function button on the front of the corresponding Auto tune kit for 3 seconds and release the button.
• The LED light will blink rapidly, pause for a moment, and then begin to flash.
• Count the number of flashes and refer to the chart.

I got 5 flashes, which according to the chart @ 5000ft is right in the center of the OK bar.

The unit seems to be working since it is adjusting trim levels, I just dont get a real time AFR reading?


So I just checked to make sure I had the CAN plugs in and discovered that all I have are rubber dust plugs that seal off the extra sockets. I was never given CAN plugs. I assume these are plugs w/ jumpers in them that terminate the CAN connection.




Just talked to the folks at PC, very helpful. They are shipping out a CAN plug as we speak.

I feel like an ass now, looks like the bike has been running on the PC-V ONLY and the base Husky map since the get go. The Autotune for some crazy reason needs the CAN plug to function properly. Everything but the AFR reading seemed to be working properly.

Funny thing is tha it had been running perfectly till recently. Go figure!

Don't worry about it ... electronics are usually black box for nearly all of us ... it is up to the manufactures to provide the correct info to the end-user to consume ... Anything else and it is on their plate ... not yours ...

Maybe this will be the issue and U can get back to some more ridin'

PC was super-fast and got the CAN plug to me today so I could not wait to fiddle around.

The SAMCO hoses have not yet arrived so I'm still running the bike on NAPA hoses and plain water for now.

So I starting w/ the base PC-V Husky Power-up map which sets a target AFR of 13.2 across the board and did a short loop to see what changes would be made.

Here is the base map target AFR:



Here are the results:







After seeing the results I really wanted to see the AFR reading real time as I rode. The problem w/ this is that the laptop has to be attached to the bike while riding.

What to do.............................



























Nothing a bunji cord and a net-book cant take care of!








Here is a picture of the PC-V dash and the info it gives you. You can see this is at idle (1704 RPM and an AFR of 13.97).




At idle the AFR is constantly a bit high, running between 13.5 and 14.9, but while riding around it was n the 12.xx to 13.xx range.


The bike seemed to run really well and pulled strong from most rpms.


Now all I have to do is see if the 2nd busted hose was a result of the first hose or is connected to a yet undetermined condition.

I'm not 100% sure on what the difference is between the Autotune Trim Table and the PC-V fuel table. I'm assuming the PC-V table is hoe the PC-V mole adjust the Husky fueling to meet the fixed map it has stored in it, while the Autotune Trim table represents that actual adjustments the Autotune module is making to meet the target AFR.

wow ... If I saw you going down the rode like that, I'd think U were a work-alcoholic .... You are one dedicated rider 4 sure ... get info for many I'd think

Amen, ray_ray. Good info for someone else's future issue.

Dan, hope this is the final fix for your hot red-head. Glad you've stuck to it instead of condemning it out of frustration

Your situation seems somewhat unique with the high altitude and PC V AT combination. I'm toying with the idea of a PC V on my 08 510 to make it run right, just can't ride it enough lately to justify the money.

I finally got the Autotune properly set up (CAN plug) and the bike is running great. Pulls really strong and runs nice and smooth. I had to fatten up the lower RPM ranges because the Autotune was making things run a bit on the lean side (AFR of 14ish).

Call someone who knows.....you know who.

pretty sure you will have to dis-assemble as if you are putting in new rings, IOW you'll have to pull the head, then the cylinder.

That's what I fear and would like to avoid, since that would most likely take the bike out of comission for the rest of the season.

The snow starts flying early here in Colorado!

Any chance of this being covered under warranty?!?!

There's always a chance they may be sympathetic, but the dealer will have to go to bat for you if you're looking for some timely success.